mjmike

I am looking for a recommendation on where I can purchase the highest quality and most comprehensive rebuild kit for the power steering system. I am reading allot of threads that say most of the kits out there are garbage. I only want to do this once, so your input is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael

MelWff

Have you looked at the parts from https://willcoxcorvette.com/ ?

carriljc

I ask because it seems like you want to do a total rebuild? If I was in that situation, then I would do a Borgenson(?) conversion instead of rebuilding mine.... but then again, I'm not the NCRS type.

79L48

Muskegon Brake is a good resource.

Street Rat

Try Rock Auto.

There are quite a selection of parts there for the cylinder and valve.

Craig

Bikespace

If you want the best, pull out your steering box, and send it to GTR1999. He will rebuild it to better than new condition, and keep you updated along the way.

While you are waiting for the box to come back, pull out the power steering pump and bracket, the steering piston (or the entire center link), the steering valve (unless it's riding on the center link that you pulled out). Throw all the lines away. Buy a rebuilt pump from RockAuto. Transfer the bracket, pulley, and cap, and send the old pump back as a core. Take apart your steering valve and see if it is worth rebuilding. Same with the steering piston.

When you get the box back, put it in and try manual steering for a while. You can do this with just a Borgeson steering adaptor on your power center link, with power pitman arm, or you can replace the center link with a manual version, and add a manual pitman arm. Either way, you are likely to have the best steering Corvette on your street.

Then take all of the junk in the second paragraph and post it to the for-sale section of this forum. If you then decide you want a Borgeson steering box (I have one on my 79), keep the steering pump, and it can be easily adapted to whatever solution you came up with for manual steering.

Duke94

Send it to Bair's. First class job on my 79' box.

3Vettes739213

Lots of good suggestions already posted. Several reputable parts suppliers out there. Have patience if you are going the DIY route. I did my my valve assembly twice - seals blew out after first rebuild. Second time worked for me and then 2 months later the cylinder started leaking. I advise doing it all and doing it once since it can be a messy job. Good luck.

mjmike

I want to thank everyone for all the great suggestions!

@ carriljc - Although I agree the Borgenson upgrade would most likely be the best option from a performance perspective, I tend to try and keep things as original as possible. GM used this setup for many years and other than the mess on the floor and the valve, the system seems to work well.

@ 3 Vettes739213 – I 100% agree, I will do the valve, cylinder, and new hoses at the same time.

I will first need to remove both the valve and the cylinder and inspect if they are viable for a rebuild. I am very meticulous and will take my time with both parts if I find they can be rebuilt. If they are not worth rebuilding, I guess my next option will be to replace with a new unit or a rebuilt unit. What is better from an OE standpoint?

I want to make sure I use the best quality rebuild kit and hoses available for the job. Right Now I am looking at Willcox and Bair's Corvette for the rebuild parts. Any additional advice is always welcome!

What is the best replacement fluid for the system?

HeadsU.P.

Any ol' off the shelf P.S. fluid will work. The garage floor doesn't care what kind you drip on it.

Here is my take on these rebuild kits. I am a firm believer most of the vendors sell the exact same kit. Sure, there could be poor quality knockoffs but how many factories are making these kits? I bet one.
Here's the real problem. We put these brand new kits in 40+ yr old parts and expect them to perform flawlessly.
Lets look at the Control Valve. If the bore is worn beyond specs, there isn't a kit in the world that will keep it from leaking. The cast iron is old, worn out.
Worse yet is the hydraulic ram. Its exposed to road grime and goes in and out hundreds of times a day. If there is one scratch or nick in the chrome ram, it will tear the new seal within months and leak. We rebuild all these P.S. parts using new kits, but old castings, then get mad when it leaks again. Its not the fault of the kit, but we bash the company that sold it to us. A $19.95 kit is not a miracle repair part.

Buccaneer

Bikespace: Another vote for Gary to rebuild your box. Mine was done as well and the only thing original was the box itself. Works great.

joepcad

Is there specs I can check to determine if the Steering Control valve is worth rebuilding or how I can tell if it is worth rebuilding instead of replacing? Full Throtle Corvette has a rebuild kit for 24.00
Also is it better to use a ball joint separator fork style to separate it from the pitman arm or the one that has a bolt that you turn to force I out without having to use a fork. I can supply pictures if I am not explaining it well

pigfarmer

https://www.jdcorvette.com/65-82-POW...=1&quickcart=1




Some control valve kits have only the seals, some have the ball stud. All are pricey. If you have it out in your hands do the whole thing. Lacking any issues before I started I left the steering gear and pitman arm alone. Too easy to start tearing s**t apart and develop 'mission creep.'

I rebuilt the control valve and it didn't seem that hard but to be fair I am still reassembling it and haven't tested it yet. Four new hoses. Amazon had the best deal for the rebuilt cylinder. Mine looked like it had seen better days. They said my rebate has been processed and I'm waiting on the check.

gjohnson

No matter what rebuild kit you buy it WILL return to its leaky ways. After 2 NEW control valves over the years I got feed up and went the Borgeson route. Out w/the old inw/ the new.

7T1vette

The rebuild kits are separate items, because folks often only do a rebuild on the part that is faulty. Your choice to rebuild the control valve, pump, and cylinder plus replace the hoses is the BEST alternative, IMO. If the P/S system was functioning OK before the present leak issues, it will be OK when the leaks are fixed.

Throwing serious money at leaks in the P/S system is foolish. Remove the P.S components. Not difficult, but tight access and messy (until you get it all cleaned up!). When you want to remove the control valve, use a chisel tip to spread the threaded section a bit and unthreading will be much easier. Also, mark the orientation of the C.V. in that link and also count the number of turns required to have it come free from that link. When you reassemble, reverse the process with the same number of turns, so that it will end up in the same place prior to removal.

This work is not "brain surgery". But, you need to be careful and take very good notes (and photos) of exactly how things came apart, so that you can reverse that process accurately. Cleanliness is important; and care during assembly is critical so that seals are not damaged or cut. If you do your work well, the P.S system should be fine and last at least 10 years without further leakage.

mike914

Hello Bikespace

Could you please help me understand this statement

I currently have a 68 and the power steering pump has been bypassed

I was thinking about using the borgeson unit you mention

Will the steering improve due to the fact I am no longer fighting the valve?

Would I reuse my Pittman arm and thread this guy in and attach the castle nut?

Thanks

Mike

Bikespace

Hi Mike,

I don't claim to be an expert, but I have converted two C3s away from stock power steering, greatly improving both in the process.

The Borgeson valve replacement end link pictured replaces the stock power steering valve at the end of your center link. It is intended, I believe, to be used with the stock power steering Pitman arm, and the Borgeson power steering box, which is how I have it in my 79. I would expect it would work fine with your center link, power steering Pitman arm, and a stock C3 steering box, with the other power steering bits removed. I think the problem comes when you mix the Pitman arm and center link assemblies (manual or power needs to be consistent, as the Pitman arms have a slightly different geometry, and presumably the center link components do as well).

FWIW, I used a rebuilt manual center link and a new manual Pitman arm when I converted my 80 to manual steering. I read a lot of threads on this Forum and elsewhere, and determined that this was the surefire way to work. In your case, the stock power steering valve is absolutely expecting fluid pressure, and will work terribly in manual mode with a lot of slop and dead space. The Borgeson replacement end (pictured) should clear up most of that.

BTW, do you have the two sets of holes in your steering arms, and are you using the outer ones (further from the ball joint axis)? I don't have that option in my 80, but that is the stock manual configuration, which gives you more steering leverage and slightly slower steering.

Ken79

Reviving this thread as I'm about to freshen up the power steering in my 79, as it's time to do away with the leaks which are getting worse.
My 79 is a 1-owner, 29K, L82 4-spd car that I ordered in 78. It has been maintained in factory stock condition, and I wish to do that for this repair.
Right now I'm leaning toward buying a new kit (valve, cylinder, hoses) to refresh the system. I'll then have my original parts to rebuild if that is needed.

Mike - can you advise what you used to solve your problem?

Thanks, Ken

mike914

Hello Ken

Not sure If you were referring to me.

I did not go with the borsten system

I simply bought an OEM replacement and kept my original pump

After struggling with the fitment I would advise you to pull your pump out 1st and compare this to OEM if this is the route you will be taking.

Once in I flushed the old system and replenished the fluid so far so good.

Good luck

Mike

Ken79

Hi Mike - (Mike914) - thank you for the info. I'm sorry for the confusion - I did not notice that there were posts from several "Mikes" in the thread.
All of my power steering parts are original to the car. I plan to replace the control valve, cylinder, and the 4 hoses. I'm not replacing the pump. I will stay as close to factory stock as is possible.
Can you advise what you mean by OEM replacement? I'm not sure if you mean aftermarket, original equipment GM NOS, or rebuilt, etc.
An OEM replacement may mean simply going to NAPA and picking up a new aftermarket part, or maybe a rebuilt GM.
I'm doing my research now to find out what's available, and to make a decision on which way to go. I will pick up or order what I need next week at Corvettes at Carlisle.
I've learned today that one of the usual long time parts vendors no longer offers the "new" cylinders, as they have been problematic.

I am familiar with all of the vendors already mentioned in this thread and have contacted several of them. If I needed steering box work, I too would go to Gary.

I'm also hoping for some info from Michael - (mjmike), as his requirements and approach seemed to be very similar to mine.

Thanks!