Horrific rear end noise
#21
Instructor
The driver side trailing arm shouldn't have any side play like we see in the video. I'm guessing some alignment shims have fallen out on that side.
It looks like the wheel bearings on both sides are loose too.
There may also be some residual wear and tear on the rest of the parts that' are now due for replacement.
I wouldn't be driving the car that way. It could get real tail happy on a tight corner. Don't ask me how I know.
It looks like the wheel bearings on both sides are loose too.
There may also be some residual wear and tear on the rest of the parts that' are now due for replacement.
I wouldn't be driving the car that way. It could get real tail happy on a tight corner. Don't ask me how I know.
Last edited by daytonablue64; 07-30-2018 at 08:17 PM.
#22
Tech Contributor
LH inner axle is worn out, clearly see the movement in the diff.
#23
Drifting
You also need to take off the shipping straps on your leaf
Last edited by gjohnson; 07-30-2018 at 10:42 PM.
#24
Thanks for the replies. If we're talking replacing the wheel bearings, which I won't be able to do myself, should I just go all in on rebuilding the trailing arms? Not sure if it's one of those "why would you not do the whole arm" things, or if it's a much more involved and expensive process to do the entire arms. I'm reading that a trailing arm rebuild is around $400 each, not sure if a wheel bearing only replacement would be considerably less. I'm not looking to hold onto this car forever.
For the yokes, is that a pretty straightforward repair that I could do myself by opening up the differential? Or, are there press fit / specialty tools required to get in there? I'm decently capable but wondering if it's safer not to mess around with the rear end and just have a shop do it.
Also, is there a way to tell visually that the u-joints are shot? I'm guessing I could easily swap out and bolt in the half shafts, but I don't think I necessarily see "rust" at the joints... possibly just dirt and they're in need of greasing. Thoughts?
I'm guessing I'm looking at:
$250 for a pair of remanufactured differential side yokes - Any guess on labor for that?
$800 for trailing arm rebuilds - Does that normally include removing and reinstalling into the car?
$430 for half shafts
Thanks for your thoughts.
For the yokes, is that a pretty straightforward repair that I could do myself by opening up the differential? Or, are there press fit / specialty tools required to get in there? I'm decently capable but wondering if it's safer not to mess around with the rear end and just have a shop do it.
Also, is there a way to tell visually that the u-joints are shot? I'm guessing I could easily swap out and bolt in the half shafts, but I don't think I necessarily see "rust" at the joints... possibly just dirt and they're in need of greasing. Thoughts?
I'm guessing I'm looking at:
$250 for a pair of remanufactured differential side yokes - Any guess on labor for that?
$800 for trailing arm rebuilds - Does that normally include removing and reinstalling into the car?
$430 for half shafts
Thanks for your thoughts.
Last edited by 1978BackToLife; 07-31-2018 at 02:49 PM.
#25
Instructor
Thanks for the replies. If we're talking replacing the wheel bearings, which I won't be able to do myself, should I just go all in on rebuilding the trailing arms? Not sure if it's one of those "why would you not do the whole arm" things, or if it's a much more involved and expensive process to do the entire arms. I'm reading that a trailing arm rebuild is around $400 each, not sure if a wheel bearing only replacement would be considerably less. I'm not looking to hold onto this car forever.
For the yokes, is that a pretty straightforward repair that I could do myself by opening up the differential? Or, are there press fit / specialty tools required to get in there? I'm decently capable but wondering if it's safer not to mess around with the rear end and just have a shop do it.
Also, is there a way to tell visually that the u-joints are shot? I'm guessing I could easily swap out and bolt in the half shafts, but I don't think I necessarily see "rust" at the joints... possibly just dirt and they're in need of greasing. Thoughts?
I'm guessing I'm looking at:
$250 for a pair of remanufactured differential side yokes - Any guess on labor for that?
$800 for trailing arm rebuilds - Does that normally include removing and reinstalling into the car?
$430 for half shafts
Thanks for your thoughts.
For the yokes, is that a pretty straightforward repair that I could do myself by opening up the differential? Or, are there press fit / specialty tools required to get in there? I'm decently capable but wondering if it's safer not to mess around with the rear end and just have a shop do it.
Also, is there a way to tell visually that the u-joints are shot? I'm guessing I could easily swap out and bolt in the half shafts, but I don't think I necessarily see "rust" at the joints... possibly just dirt and they're in need of greasing. Thoughts?
I'm guessing I'm looking at:
$250 for a pair of remanufactured differential side yokes - Any guess on labor for that?
$800 for trailing arm rebuilds - Does that normally include removing and reinstalling into the car?
$430 for half shafts
Thanks for your thoughts.
That trailing arm rebuild price sounds about right, although I can't say for sure as I did my own rebuild on them. It's not too difficult but it does require a couple of special tools (maybe around $100 to $150 for the tools) You'll also want to replace the bushings on the front of the arms. A hydraulic press comes in handy for the job. I picked one up cheap at Harbor Freight. The only real difficult part of rebuilding the arms is setting up the axle shims so you get just the right stack height, as it's pretty critical. That's where one of the tools comes in handy because you can mock things up before pressing things back together. Other than that it was pretty straight forward.
I also recommend you measure for any run-out of the outer axles before disassembly. I discovered I had a slightly bent outer axle AFTER rebuilding and pressing the bearing on.
Also be sure to order a new shim pack for the rear alignment and be sure to get the slotted shims, or it will be a real pain to set the rear alignment. And be sure to install a cotter pin to hold the shims in place or they'll work loose and fall out. Again, don't ask me how I know.
I doubt you need new half shafts but I'd recommend replacing all the the U joints at the same time, they're pretty cheap (most people recommend using Spicer U joints).
The inner yokes (on the diff.) are fairly easily replaced as long as the half shafts are off. And I'd recommend the "rebuilt ones" since you have a better chance of getting rebuilt originals. I used a set of brand new (supposedly) heavy duty ones and snapped one side and twisted the other the very first time I stomped on the pedal after installing a 383 stroker. Apparently most all of the "new" ones are cheap Chinese crap. I went back to the original ones and haven't had a problem since ( fingers crossed!).
If I snap the originals I'll likely have Gary Ramadi (gtr1999) build me a Super 10" diff.
You might see if Gary rebuilds trailing arms, if so, his work comes highly recommended by myself and others.
Best of luck!
#27
Le Mans Master
GTR1999's bread and butter is trailing arm/bearing rebuilds along with steering boxes and diffs.
Gary is your man and will be getting my trailing arms for a rebuild if I ever find the time to get mine out and to him....Luckily I can drive to Gary with the parts..he did my steering box and holy smokes eliminated ALL play from the crap recirculating ball steering....
Gary is your man and will be getting my trailing arms for a rebuild if I ever find the time to get mine out and to him....Luckily I can drive to Gary with the parts..he did my steering box and holy smokes eliminated ALL play from the crap recirculating ball steering....
#29
Le Mans Master
I personally would do the whole trailing arm with the bearings and i would NOT attempt the job yourself even with the correct tools unless you are highly skilled in this type of work since there is some precision required to do it correctly, experience doing rear C3 bearings is most helpful, and due to the PIA if something goes wrong if you have to do it again....I would pay to have it done....GTR1999 is the man for the job....He has done work for me in the past. Gary is a true professional who knows what he is doing........
Last edited by jb78L-82; 08-31-2018 at 03:01 PM.