Jeff_Keryk

If you were 180* out (I don't think you are) it would buck and spit and sputter. My guess is the valves are over adjusted. I don't use the "spin in your fingers"; I jiggle the pushrods up and down until zero lash. Then half-turn more or whatever you like.

For timing, I click the key until I feel pressure in the #1 plug hole, just like you. I bring it up to about 10* BTDC. Stab the distributer. Hook up timing light. Turn key to on position. Slowly rotate distributor until light flashes. Snug up bolt. Prime carb and fire that bad-boy.

Buccaneer

Yeah, the Elgin industries E1143P cam is a flat tappet cam and seems a bit large if you are using as a daily driver, but I'm not judging. I would definitely find the issue before trying to start that motor again so you don't damage that cam. To me, it's just not worth the cash to go with a flat tappet cam anymore when a roller is so much better all around performer. It does cost a bit more, but again, I think it is worth the extra cash IMO. Good luck with your new motor startup.

supersonicvette

Thank you everyone for your help and time, you gave a few more things to try before I'll have to give up and have it towed somewhere for a solution. I'll probably go with a cam swap if it gets to that point too.

stingraymaniac

You are saying that you get 10 volts to the dist when cranking, that sounds low, I couldn't get mine to start with so low voltage it just sputtered and died, like when the timing is of, I charged the battery for a long time and had the charger on when I tried again and it woke to life instantly

supersonicvette

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to try that.

supersonicvette

One thing I didn't mention was that I converted the factory wiring (69') from points to HEI by running a wire from IGN on the fuse panel directly to the distributor. The old wiring remains but is set aside. Would this cause the issue?

diehrd

YA make sure u have power for CRANKING and Running.