addballer696

Rebuilt entire front suspension with moog parts, new bushings ect. The steering box is original and was not touched. All parts have been lubed. Problem is the steering now is very tight and the wheel will not return to center on turns. I'm thinking the problem is with the idler arm because it was very hard to move before bolting it on the car. Asking for any advice to loosen this thing up. Also, I've driven a couple hundred miles and still no change. A picture of me on the dragon tail trying not to die for your time. Thanks

theandies

I can't see just the idler arm causing this. I think it may be a combination of things that add up to stiffness your have. Make sure your tie-rods are not binding up.

Did you go rubber or poly bushings?

OMF

The idler arm should be quite stiff when new, how about your alignment....Have you got lots of castor in? Did you try moving the wheels manually after new ball joints were installed (before the drag link was installed?)

Another thing to check is the balance of the power steering valve assembly, and possibly a collapsed hose thats blocking flow.
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...adjustment.pdf

GUSTO14

When you changed from power steering to manual steering earlier, did you move the tie rods to the non-power hole in the lower control arms?



This tie rod is in the power steering hole. The other hole is for manual steering and requires less effort to turn (return) the wheels from straight ahead.

Good luck... GUSTO

addballer696

Replaced with poly bushings. And yes converted to manual steering before rebuilding the front end and the steering was fairly easy to turn compared to now. There is increased resistance turning the wheel with the tires off the ground than before. Good point about the tie rod steering hole however there are no separate holes on the 77. I'll disconnect the idler arm and see if the problem persists to try and localize the issue and will report back. Thanks y'all

GUSTO14

Good point, I forgot that in 1977 power steering became standard equipment so N41 was dropped as an option and there was no need for the second hole.

Since the steering knuckle arm is a bolt on item, it might be interesting to see if switching to the earlier arms would change the effort required significantly.


GUSTO

7T1vette

I hate to ask this, but... Since all those joints are new, have you greased them? (they don't come greased.)

BLUE1972

moving out to the outside hole will change the effort and also increase the turning radius. Larger circle when turning.

I would make sure the toe in has not changed.

GUSTO14

Turning radius is controlled by the stops on the lower A-frame and the steering knuckle arm (or the tire striking the frame whichever occurs first), not by the distance from the tie-rod and the spindle centerline. The steering wheel effort will change and the turns (lock-to-lock) will change, but not the turning radius.

Good luck... GUSTO

Big2Bird

Sounds like alignment. Neutral toe or toe out will do that. Rebuilding the box will help. They are always dry and out of adjustment.

BLUE1972

If there is enough throw to hit the stops. On my friends "put together" 69 there was not enough throw. Never tried it on an original car.