Digital Killer

I may be going to look at a 1968 Corvette convertible, but I know nothing about them and would love some advice on what I should look for. I have not spoke to the owner yet, but a friend has seen it and driven. He purchased a Tempest conv. from the same person.

Here is what I know from my friend. (He isn't an expert. :))

1968 convertible - Numbers matching
Hard top
Small Block (Looking at the specs on this site it must be a 327)
4 Speed Manual
Runs and Drives
Has been stored loooooong time
Needs some cosmetic work and TLC. IE Tune up, new shocks, maybe paint, etc.

I am curious to get opinions on what to look for as far as an old 1968? Any parts that go bad? Frame, etc.?

What would a best guest estimate on a fair price assuming it is what it has been portrayed?

Anything else I should know and look for?

Thanks to anyone who can help me make a more informed decision!

- Russ

Jerry P

Given that the car is 34 years old many things may have been done to it over the years. You will need to look over the car as you would any older car. You are correct that the small block would be a 327. In 68 they only offered the 327 and 427. The 350 came in in 69.

The 68 has a couple of unique features that are only on the 68. For one, the outside door handles cost about double the cost of new ones for a 69 to 82.

As far as what to look for in this year, you will want to check out the vacuum system. Remember it's 34 years old. I would also crawl under and look at the trailing arms and signs of frame repair. You will also want to inspect the suspension especially the spring. As far as the body, look at the lip around the wheel wells. If repairs were done in all likely hood this is an area that would have been repaired. Feel around because usually when repairs are done to the lip, no one really sands down the repair on the inside and it will feel rough.

Since you said the car has been sitting for a long time, check out the brakes. The calipers have a tendency to leak if left setting for time. Speaking of brakes, check out the emergency brake. On the 68 it has small brake shoes that sit inside the rotor around the axle. This is not expensive to get the parts to repair, but it is a bummer of a job if you never tackled it. If you were to take this to someone to get fixed, they will probably charge $$$, I know I would just for the hassle it is to work on.

Just a couple of things to look for. I had a lot of fun with the one I owned. The only real negative I ever had with mine was that it didn't have A/C and on hot humid summer days with the top down it would be uncomfortable.

Good luck.

NHvette

Take a look at the pictures of my '75 frame after the body came off.
Make sure you are sitting before you look. They are pretty graphic, but
show you just where the rust will get you. Windshield frames are
notorious, usually worst at the bottom corners.

Keep in mind that mine looked "pretty good" until the body was lifted.

Conversely, my 70 frame and body steel are pretty solid. It all comes
down to how it was cared for and sheltered.

I would GUESS, not having seen or inspected the car, to put it somewhere
in the $10-15k range, assuming it is complete and not rotted.
:seeya

Rick68

I just bought a 68 roadster 2 weeks ago and the best thing you can do is take it to a garage that specializes in vettes.check it to the best of your abillity first then make your offer but make it conditional to an inspection by a pro.If he tells you its trash deals off if he says its ok then you just bought your vette.Some things to check on your own just to make sure its worth your time having it inspected are the frame, check in front of the rear wheels (the most common spot for rust) Do all the gauges work? Do the lights open? Also, look at the windshield frame which is another bad spot for rust and leaks. Also check the rad cradle. Check to make sure the wiper door opens. If you can take a look at where he keeps his car look at the floor and see what has been leaking. But my best advise is having the pro look at it up on his houst. I got lucky and the place I took mine did it as a free service but I would have gladly paid for it just for the peace of mind. :cheers:

Chuck Gongloff

There are many unique, one year only 68 items....interior-wise and exterior-wise. Because of this fact, conventional wisdom says it's more expensive and more difficult to restore a 68. Other than that, they're no better/no worse than any other shark IMHO. Chuck

Dalannex

What are the differences in the door handles????

JB

'68's got pushbuttons.

JB

LemansBlue68

If you want to restore the '68 to concourse condition, you'll find that many parts are one year only. They are difficult to find and expensive. If you are not so concerned about originality, there are many parts from later sharks will interchange and function acceptably. The difference from "correct" will be noticeable, though. Make sure the '68 you are buying is as complete as possible unless you enjoy "treasure hunts" (personally I enjoy it -- It's like fishing, only it's for car parts).

Most of the chassis parts are the same as other years, so those are relatively easy to find. It's the body parts that are more difficult.

A couple of problems I've found unique to '68's that were corrected in later years were:

1) Cracks in the forward portion of the surround near the front corners of the hood. Later sharks are reinforced here in the surround and have additional brackets between the header bar and wheel well. I added these to mine.

2) Cracks or even body damage around the passenger side hood latch on the cowl. I've seen this problem on many '68's. They were not reinforced here as well as later years. I added this reinforcement to mine to prevent this.

3) The headlight housings/doors are slightly larger for the early '68s. Not a problem unless yours are broken or missing.

4) The door pull design in the door panel is really dumb. You have to twist your wrist funny to close the door. They added an additional handle to the door panel later in '68. I added these to mine as well (technically its a late "early" model).

Other than that, some positive things about '68 are:

1) Awesome engine combo's, especially the big blocks.

2) Four functioning tail lights (separate back up lights). Looks better IMHO.

3) Ignition switch on the dash.

4) It's the first year of the shark style and looks awesome!!!

Bottom line is, I'd buy another '68 in a hearbeat (if the wife would let me).

If you buy this car and want some hints on who has '68 parts, or have questions about this '68 before you buy, check out my web site and/or e-mail me.

Good luck.

Eric

Digital Killer

Thanks for all of the advice.

To be honest, I am not looking for an all origianal Vette. I like the style of the '68-'72 and would like to have a convertable to cruise with. Maybe a nice crate motor, etc. This is the first one I have come acrossed although I have not been looking very hard. :)

With that said, I am also looking to NOT pay an all original price. This one I am told is priced OK, but could be cheaper. At least that is what I am told. The asking price is $10k

Thanks, I have learned allot already!

verskel

Not sure if this has been covered but here's some unique '68 stuff to know about.......

'68-69 vettes have the blue-green illumination in the guages - otherwise they've been 'swapped' - :eek:

'68s have no frame bracing behind the seats on the frame - so they're prone to cracking.....ok if it's just paint - any more than that is serious.

Check for weird sounds coming from the rear - i.e. - wheel bearings :eek:

'68s have in dash key ignition, middle console openings for seat belts......head rests were 'optional' and lap belts were standard.

IF the rear rotors were removed the rivets have been replaced as well as wheel bearings - a good sign that requires removal of the wheel. ;)

Check to see if front ball joints have been replaced - nuts instead of rivets. :yesnod:

ALL rear lights should be red with backup lights under the bumpers.

Steering wheels were larger but that's just cosmetics.... :crazy:

Good LUCK !!! ...excellent year choice ! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cool:

verskel

Oh - 1 more thing......not to confuse you, but there are Early 68's and Late 68's....depending on the vin # and when it was produced.

IF you find any #'s (i.e. - vin, trim tag, etc.) - post 'em on the forum and we'll give you a rundown before you buy the car ! :yesnod:

R1234

If it has A/C make sure it has all the 68 parts. Those parts are unique to that year. I have also found out the early ac verts did not come with the ac underdash bracing.

Robert Holtman

I LOVE '68's! I've had one before this one. I have a feeling you are sort of like me in regards to originality. I bought mine for $10K also but I was further blessed by it not having a numbers matching engine. So I had no guilt about changing things around on MY car, I say MY because it's not concourse. I have free range to do what I want to it, not try to make it as it came from the factory 34 years ago.
There are some things on a '68 that are unique. But I guess that's why I luv 'em.
Oh chrck the bteak lights. The break light switch under the pedal is '68 only and a real pain to locate these days. :cheers:

Toronto-C3

Keep one thing in mine. You are looking at an old very old american car, these cars were junk when they were new and they are old junk now. The best thing you can do is have a good body shop go over the sucker and then take it to a good auto mechanic. That is the only way you will know what you are buying, Spend a little money for professional advise this way you will know the junk you are buying. If you buy then join a club. Good luck you will need it.

garagedweller2

sounds like 73-454 :jester

SuperFast80

D'oh!

68shark

Welcome back George! :D