67's

If so do you have any tips? I am going to attempt to change mine tomorrow and neither me or any of the "help" has either, or is this something that should be left to profesionals?

Thanks,
Tom

joeveto

This is not a difficult job. In fact, it's the first advanced job I ever tried.

It's been over a year, so I'm doing this from memory. But here goes it. By the way, the Chilton manual does not do a bad job of explaining the process. That's what I used, and my replacement went okay.

You'll need a set of pickle forks and a hammer, to separate some of the suspension components. You'll also need quality jack stands. If you have an impact wrench, it would be helpful. But it's not a requirement. I did mine without. Also, a breaker bar is nice.

You'll need to drain the power steering fluid from the system. You can do this by unplugging the hoses at the control valve. Recycle the fluid, but don't reuse it. Fluid is cheap. Then, disconnect the relay rod from the tie rod. This will help when it comes time to remove the old control valve. Make sure you note which hoses go where, on the control valve. Then, rotate the control valve, counterclockwise, to remove. It takes awhile, and if it's really on there, it can take a lot of effort. I believe I wrapped a cloth around mine, and then took a pipe wrench to it. The pipe wrench gave me the leverage I needed. My threads were stripped badly. SO removal and installation were awful. My next installation will have a new relay rod attached to it, as I don't want to mess with this again.

Once the old one is off, the new one screws on. Installation is the reverse of removal.

And I may have left something out. But I don't think I did. Once you put the hoses back on, fill the power steering resevoir. You'll want to bleed the power steering fluid, by turning the steering wheel, lock to lock, a few times. This will purge the air. Then fill the system to the appropriate level.

Also, a word of caution. When you start your car for the first time, after installing the new power steering control valve, you'll have to adjust the nut on the end of the valve, to adjust it. DO NOT REACH THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL TO DO THIS! You can break your arm. When the car is started for the first time, the wheel will rotate violently, until the valve is adjusted. If your arm is through the spokes, the wheel can break your arm. This is no lie.

Good luck, and if you get into trouble, the forum will bail you out. It sure has helped me. :yesnod:

nunus79

joeveto covered it well! Just wanted to add one thing, remove the clamping bolt completely off the valve body. If you leave it on and turn the valve body, the clamping bolt will rub on the threads and screw it up.

Take great heed to joeveto's caution about sticking your arm through the steering wheel when first starting up the engine with the new valve!!! All it takes is a tiny bit of misadjustment and that steering wheel will snap one way or another.

Good luck!

Solidlifters

Just a couple more comments: The hose bosses on the valve are easy to crack if you overtighten 'em. Complete removal of the bolt is a good point and probably responsible for buggered threads on Joe's at some previous time. The valve adjustment itself should be done with the front wheels off the ground and after filling, the steering wheel should be turned lock to lock several times to purge air before adjusting the valve.

Why on earth would you guys stick your arm through the steering wheel anyway?????

67's

Guys, thanks for the replys and all the good info, I tried to write back earlier but I kept getting called away from the desk. I am going to attempt the install tonight, I will write back if I have any more questions.

Tom

nunus79

The snap-back never happened to me. But it easily could have if I tried to start the engine while standing outside of the car reaching in towards the ignition switch.

Milest

I changed mine a few months back and removing the left frount tire and wheel gave me great access to the valve. I bought minr rebuilt from Vette Brakes and Products and no adjustment was necessary.

Not a difficult job with the tips given previously.

Rogue Wave

Here's another vote for is ain't such a hard job.

As others have mentioned and I will caution yet one more time, stay away from the steering wheel when you start the car for the first time. :yesnod:

When I did mine and started the engine, the steering wheel turned into a power saw and took off. :eek: And when it hit the stop, I couldn't turn it the wheel at all. (Well, until I got it adjusted... )

Good luck :cheers:

Paul Borowski

I put a brand new one on my '80 in the first week of July for $205 from Keen Parts near Cincinnati,Ohio. Did'nt have to "adjust" the centering nut as it was perfect when I put it on(which is super rare!!!). I did'nt have the "snap back" or anything. Also, careful not to "overfill" the pump reservior, as it's easy to do. If you feel real adventurous at this point, and you have the control valve removed, you can feel for any "looseness" in the steering gearbox. See if the pitman arm coming off of the steering box can be jiggled. This is adjustable by the slotted, threaded shaft with the lock nut coming out of the cover at the top of the box. Do not overtighten the shaft, as you want it a hair loose, but if it is alot loose, you can take that out. The new control valve, the adjusting of this steering box along with a new idler arm at 107,000mi my steering on my '80 feels tighter than a brand new car's!!! No slop or looseness in the steering at all, a real pleasure to drive now :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

74Coupe

Great info guys.
This is 1 of the many things on my "want to do before it gets to bad list".
Has anyone used kit available from ZIP containa a rebuilt valve, cylinder and new hoses. Will all this make the job a lot harder? Any thing to lok for when replacing these other parts?

Thanks

Jason628

Greetings,

I did it in my '74 and to be honest, the best deal I've found is through Musegeon Brake. I wouldn't try rebuilding it...Just replace it. Definitely money and time well spent. Hard to believe the difference!

Have a wonderful day,

Jason

Captain Morgan

Tom,
I realize I'm a bit late on this, but maybe you don't have everything back together just yet. When putting the pitman arm back on, make sure the tires are on center, as well as the steering wheel. I thought mine was, but I must have moved something just a tad, because the steering wheel is rotated the slightest amount while driving straight. I'll fix that this winter, but I wanted to give you the warning. Hope I'm not too late.

67's

Guys, I did do it tonight and it wasn't that hard maybe 2 hours toatl, although I am going have to go back and line up the wheels and the steering wheel.. I didn't get a chance to test it tonight anyway, I also changed the power steering pump, and forgot to put the 2 hoses back on, so I ran out of fluid, well to put in the car, I had about a quart on the floor.

Thanks for all the tips.

Tom

67's

One more question, do you adjust the nut before or after lineing everything up?

Tom

Captain Morgan

Adjust the nut after getting wheels and steering wheel lined up on straight ahead. Then start the vette and adjust the nut per directions.

4_inch_Bore

Crane's has a web special on now. $595 for the complete kit - $200 cheaper than the others. I ordered mine two weeks ago. The pieces keep dribbling in from other suppliers. So far everything looks great, although I have been warned that the pump mounting brackets (from Paragon) will not fit.

jcorvette

what i found was, dont hook up the cylinder rod before starting engine.
you adjust the rod with engine running
but the rod is NOT CONNECTED.
adjust the nut until the rod stays in one position. worked good for me.
i had the same steering prob. glad my arm wasnt inbetween the spokes :seeya