Good alternator/voltage regulator, but 2 new batteries killed in 3 weeks
#21
Hope you're doing alright after the hurricane, I've just recently moved to Jacksonville myself got some home remodeling to finish before I get back to my vette.
A similar problem that was plaguing my vette for a while was the antenna relay gone bad. The actuator draws (apparently) a large current and would take charge out of any battery I put in there and ruined a couple batteries too
A similar problem that was plaguing my vette for a while was the antenna relay gone bad. The actuator draws (apparently) a large current and would take charge out of any battery I put in there and ruined a couple batteries too
#22
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Location: Atlantic Beach FL
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Update: I ran a jumper wire from the alternator to the negative battery cable, per the previous suggestion. The GEN light was still on, with the key out of the ignition. The car started and ran fine and the GEN light went out with the car running.
Any more suggestions?
BTW, when I connected the negative battery cable, after sitting 2 weeks, I think I heard the alarm module "click", in the console. This is probably the source of my parasitic drain. I do not think the alarm module would allow the GEN light to stay on, with the key out of the ignition, though.
Any more suggestions?
BTW, when I connected the negative battery cable, after sitting 2 weeks, I think I heard the alarm module "click", in the console. This is probably the source of my parasitic drain. I do not think the alarm module would allow the GEN light to stay on, with the key out of the ignition, though.
#23
Melting Slicks
I'm guessing that there is something that is BACKFEEDING when the key is off that is throwing things off and causing the light to come on.
I had a similar discovery many years ago - mind boggler!
I had a similar discovery many years ago - mind boggler!
#25
Pro
Here is the course of events. I have had the car for approximately 6+ years.
Mechanic changed my power steering rack and power steering pump a few months ago. I drove the car home, Ran well. I did not drive the car for a couple of months (too hot down her in FL). I go to start the car and the battery is dead.
I looked and the battery was replaced in the past 9 months. I took the battery back to Interstate batteries and they said it had a bad cell. They replaced the battery under warranty.
I put the new battery in the car and drove approximately 50 miles. I park the car for 2 weeks and went to start the car. The battery was dead. I assumed I had a bad alternator or voltage regulator. I pull the alternator off and take it to Advance Auto Parts. They check the alternator and voltage regulator on their machine and say they everything checks out as good.
I then try to charge the battery and it will not charge. The auto parts store tries to charge to charge the battery and they say that it has a bad cell.
So, this is the second new battery that has a bad cell after being in the car for a very short period. The alternator and voltage regulator have been tested and check out as good.
What is the next course of action? Could it be a bad ground for the negative battery cable causing the alternator to continue charging the battery and kill a cell? I know everyone is going to suggest checking the connections with a multi meter. Sadly, I do not have access anymore to a shop and lift like I did in Atlanta.
What is your guess? Where to check next?
Mechanic changed my power steering rack and power steering pump a few months ago. I drove the car home, Ran well. I did not drive the car for a couple of months (too hot down her in FL). I go to start the car and the battery is dead.
I looked and the battery was replaced in the past 9 months. I took the battery back to Interstate batteries and they said it had a bad cell. They replaced the battery under warranty.
I put the new battery in the car and drove approximately 50 miles. I park the car for 2 weeks and went to start the car. The battery was dead. I assumed I had a bad alternator or voltage regulator. I pull the alternator off and take it to Advance Auto Parts. They check the alternator and voltage regulator on their machine and say they everything checks out as good.
I then try to charge the battery and it will not charge. The auto parts store tries to charge to charge the battery and they say that it has a bad cell.
So, this is the second new battery that has a bad cell after being in the car for a very short period. The alternator and voltage regulator have been tested and check out as good.
What is the next course of action? Could it be a bad ground for the negative battery cable causing the alternator to continue charging the battery and kill a cell? I know everyone is going to suggest checking the connections with a multi meter. Sadly, I do not have access anymore to a shop and lift like I did in Atlanta.
What is your guess? Where to check next?
Any illumination from test lite? If so, is it very dim or very bright? Bright means more current of course. Pull fuses until light goes away. Did this help?
Self winding clocks can run down a battery quickly if when motor in clock is trying to wind clock, it gets jammed up and is unable to do so thereby creating a dead short.
If pulling fuses does not put test lite out, try disconnecting alternator completely. Does light go out?
Does car have separate amp for an audio system? Disconnect it too. Power Antenna?
Car has a current draw somewhere, only a meter or a test lite will help you determine where.. That is true if disconnecting battery during longer idle periods resolves problem.
Most battery chargers will not charge a battery that has fallen to 10 Volts. Does not necessarily mean that battery is unusable. There are battery chargers that will do so, again most won't. Too often these batteries are incorrectly deemed junk
There is a simple technique however to recover such a battery. Respond if you would like details.
Could be TS or brake lite switch,,,,pulling fuse of course would put test lite out.
Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 10-17-2016 at 07:57 PM.