What yrs did cooling improve?
09-15-2016, 03:35 PM
#1
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St. Jude Donor '05
What yrs did cooling improve?
Came across a couple reasonably priced driver type C3s ranging from 73 to 81
Havent owned a C3 (73) for close to 20 yrs
Anyway at some point recall reading something about improved airdamns radiators something to that effect.
Looks like my budget would get me an "ok" 73-75 or pretty nice late C3....or mint condition very low mi C4
saw very nice examples of both gens this morning with less than 40k mi for 7k or less cant say no anymore lol
C4 probably the smartest choice for usage but Im not smart..and like carbed non computerized vehicles. Plus already had 2 of them
Aware of these things not wanting to run cool as I like
Would love to get into a 75 or older (smog exempt in ca) so I dont have to live with a wheezy stocker but budget may not allow it
Was it 78 or 79 that some changes were made?
Decision on what yr isnt based on resale could care less, just curious.
Havent owned a C3 (73) for close to 20 yrs
Anyway at some point recall reading something about improved airdamns radiators something to that effect.
Looks like my budget would get me an "ok" 73-75 or pretty nice late C3....or mint condition very low mi C4
saw very nice examples of both gens this morning with less than 40k mi for 7k or less cant say no anymore lol
C4 probably the smartest choice for usage but Im not smart..and like carbed non computerized vehicles. Plus already had 2 of them
Aware of these things not wanting to run cool as I like
Would love to get into a 75 or older (smog exempt in ca) so I dont have to live with a wheezy stocker but budget may not allow it
Was it 78 or 79 that some changes were made?
Decision on what yr isnt based on resale could care less, just curious.
Last edited by cv67; 09-15-2016 at 03:51 PM.
09-15-2016, 03:41 PM
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Cooling system changes were made throughout the C3 model run. It is not likely any particular model year was significantly better than the accumulated changes from the model years preceding it.
Good luck with the hunt.
Good luck with the hunt.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 09-15-2016 at 04:12 PM.
09-15-2016, 04:38 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
I thought the front and rear spoilers & air dams started with the 78 and then became an option in 79. In addition to creating slightly better cooling, they also reduce the coefficient of drag considerably.
Obviously, a cheap Chinese aluminum radiator will increase your cooling faster than most things and can be done to any year model.
Are you concerned about price appreciation are you just looking for a driver that you plan on modding? -if the latter just go with the prevalent and cheap later C3s. If appreciation is important the earlier the better.
Adam
Obviously, a cheap Chinese aluminum radiator will increase your cooling faster than most things and can be done to any year model.
Are you concerned about price appreciation are you just looking for a driver that you plan on modding? -if the latter just go with the prevalent and cheap later C3s. If appreciation is important the earlier the better.
Adam
09-15-2016, 05:06 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Around 78 or 79 the frames got some additional reinforcing, if I remember correctly. Which makes them big fatty fat heavy beasts (my 79 with all options except for the CB selected came with a curb weight of 3,650lbs...and that's with the lightweight aluminum wheels...)- the weight reduction didn't start until 80.
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; 09-15-2016 at 05:08 PM.
09-15-2016, 05:19 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=NewbVetteGuy;1593064916]Around 78 or 79 the frames got some additional reinforcing, if I remember correctly. Which makes them big fatty fat heavy beasts (my 79 with all options except for the CB selected came with a curb weight of 3,650lbs...and that's with the lightweight aluminum wheels...)- the weight reduction didn't start until 80.
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
The basic C3 frame from 63-82 is pretty much the same....it did not change during those years. Much of the additional weight of the 78/79's was from the optional power equipment, emissions hardware, safety reinforcements in the doors, nose and rear tank area. The 80-82's are primarily slightly lighter due almost entirely to a thinner skinned fiberglass body and more importantly from the aluminum "batwing" rear suspension/differential.....the aluminum diff is also much weaker than previous years behind higher HP motors..
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
The basic C3 frame from 63-82 is pretty much the same....it did not change during those years. Much of the additional weight of the 78/79's was from the optional power equipment, emissions hardware, safety reinforcements in the doors, nose and rear tank area. The 80-82's are primarily slightly lighter due almost entirely to a thinner skinned fiberglass body and more importantly from the aluminum "batwing" rear suspension/differential.....the aluminum diff is also much weaker than previous years behind higher HP motors..
Last edited by jb78L-82; 09-16-2016 at 09:57 AM.
09-15-2016, 05:25 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Around 78 or 79 the frames got some additional reinforcing, if I remember correctly. Which makes them big fatty fat heavy beasts (my 79 with all options except for the CB selected came with a curb weight of 3,650lbs...and that's with the lightweight aluminum wheels...)- the weight reduction didn't start until 80.
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
Starting in 79, I think the L48 and L82 models got the dual, wide snorkel CAI, too.
Personally, I'd want an 81 with a front and rear spoiler. -That way you get all the improvements that the C3's have to offer and you also get the weight reduction that started in 80 without having to deal with the Cross Fire 82 stuff...
Adam
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...t-Corvette.pdf
Last edited by jb78L-82; 09-16-2016 at 09:54 AM.
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09-15-2016, 09:39 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05
Are you concerned about price appreciation are you just looking for a driver that you plan on modding?
dont see any way for them to appreciate as money ins etc goes into them way faster than one could get it out. Besides even if it did will it change my life, nah. Cars are nuts bolts and bodies to me theres no emotional anything with them. Just a means to enjoy a little time and blow some steam off keep the mind busy and the wallet empty. Its worked so far.
09-15-2016, 11:24 PM
#11
I bought a '92 C4 (w/ auto) in '93, then bought a '94 C4 (with t56 manual) in '97. They both were extremely reliable daily drivers, neither one not even once overheated and this is daily driving in Dallas and later Houston stop and go 100+ deg traffic, never ONCE overheated. Had a combined 70k + miles on them. I kept them both stock.
I recommend getting a later model LT motored C4, they, in my opinion, are a giant leap forward from the Gen 1 motor. Also get one with the t56 manual, way more fun. But you can't hardly loose with the auto either. Oh but then there are those sexy C3 curves...
I recommend getting a later model LT motored C4, they, in my opinion, are a giant leap forward from the Gen 1 motor. Also get one with the t56 manual, way more fun. But you can't hardly loose with the auto either. Oh but then there are those sexy C3 curves...
09-15-2016, 11:35 PM
#14
I will say...on the other hand that I personally know a lady who bought a early 90's C4 and she's had loads of trouble with it. Mostly overheating believe it or not. BUT, I don't believe the previous owner(s) took good care of it. They chased the overheating problem for quite sometime. I told her up front she needed to flush the block. Been there done that. She didn't listen. Several hundred dollars later she finally had the block flushed. Overheating problems were solved. Hadn't heard from her in awhile so I presume things are going OK.
Last edited by htown81vette; 09-15-2016 at 11:35 PM.
09-15-2016, 11:54 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05
Those 113 heads had problems with puking head gaskets on #7
Thought about an LT1 but want away from smog if possible and loathe that ignition setup.
Wow...thats a little on the porky side!
Thought about an LT1 but want away from smog if possible and loathe that ignition setup.
my 79 with all options except for the CB selected came with a curb weight of 3,650lbs
09-16-2016, 09:12 AM
#16
Drifting
My '75 has a 160 thermostat and a 4-row copper radiator but other than that nothing special to keep it cool and it rarely runs above 160 and never over 180. It has a healthy warmed over 350 with no smog junk. Once set up right, an old carbed 350 is just plain reliable. It's time to buy one and have some fun.
09-16-2016, 09:32 AM
#17
Drifting
I agree with Mr. BKbroiler...my car has been INCREDIBLE since my stock radiator pooped out in March of 2012 and I stuffed the biggest aluminum BeCool radiator I could put in the thing.
I have a 160 degree thermostat that I had to drill a couple small holes in because the engine was getting TOO WELL in cool weather. As soon as the chilly air from the radiator hit the thermostat, the sphincter would shut hard and temps would quickly rise to 200. Opens, cold water, closes, cycles...you get the picture. My temp gauge would swing wildly from 160 to 210 during the drive.
I'm measuring my temperature with a mechanical AutoMeter gauge mounted in the aluminum intake manifold, so that is pretty solid information.
I still see the thermostat open at 170 or 175, but the car DOES NOT get over 180 in any circumstance. I don't care if it is 100 degrees outside.
Another thing that is great in my car? The L88 hood has a "mail slot" out of the back of the hood that dumps MASSIVE amounts of under-hood heat. If I drive in cool weather, the base of my windshield is warm to the touch where the mailslot is exhausting engine heat. This movement of under-hood air is very helpful to dissipating engine heat. I believe every car would benefit from some type of "upper relief" of under-hood heat.
To continue on that point, my brother is building a Factory Five GTM, a rear engine "supercar". One of the options is a cool looking "air snorkel" over the roof that looks like it draws cool air into the engine bay (which is rather closed-in and behind the driver). Turns out that the purpose of that snorkel is to LET ENGINE HEAT OUT when the car is stationary...that the natural convection of air through the engine bay drives all of the air to the high-point and the snorkel allows that hot air to exit the car. A point to ponder, I'd say, when it comes to engine bay heat and hoods with no upper vents.
Other things are a functional shroud, a good fan, and a radiator without a bunch of bugs and cigarette butts in it.
To answer the original question directly, the stock radiator should be adequate, and I don't believe it changed much over the years. So one car shouldn't be much different than another. They're all "hot natured" with the big-block generating more under-hood heat for obvious reasons. But the car can benefit from two things: A bigger radiator, of course, and some way to allow engine heat to leave the engine bay by natural bottom-to-top convection instead of getting trapped under the hood. Those are my opinions.
I have a 160 degree thermostat that I had to drill a couple small holes in because the engine was getting TOO WELL in cool weather. As soon as the chilly air from the radiator hit the thermostat, the sphincter would shut hard and temps would quickly rise to 200. Opens, cold water, closes, cycles...you get the picture. My temp gauge would swing wildly from 160 to 210 during the drive.
I'm measuring my temperature with a mechanical AutoMeter gauge mounted in the aluminum intake manifold, so that is pretty solid information.
I still see the thermostat open at 170 or 175, but the car DOES NOT get over 180 in any circumstance. I don't care if it is 100 degrees outside.
Another thing that is great in my car? The L88 hood has a "mail slot" out of the back of the hood that dumps MASSIVE amounts of under-hood heat. If I drive in cool weather, the base of my windshield is warm to the touch where the mailslot is exhausting engine heat. This movement of under-hood air is very helpful to dissipating engine heat. I believe every car would benefit from some type of "upper relief" of under-hood heat.
To continue on that point, my brother is building a Factory Five GTM, a rear engine "supercar". One of the options is a cool looking "air snorkel" over the roof that looks like it draws cool air into the engine bay (which is rather closed-in and behind the driver). Turns out that the purpose of that snorkel is to LET ENGINE HEAT OUT when the car is stationary...that the natural convection of air through the engine bay drives all of the air to the high-point and the snorkel allows that hot air to exit the car. A point to ponder, I'd say, when it comes to engine bay heat and hoods with no upper vents.
Other things are a functional shroud, a good fan, and a radiator without a bunch of bugs and cigarette butts in it.
To answer the original question directly, the stock radiator should be adequate, and I don't believe it changed much over the years. So one car shouldn't be much different than another. They're all "hot natured" with the big-block generating more under-hood heat for obvious reasons. But the car can benefit from two things: A bigger radiator, of course, and some way to allow engine heat to leave the engine bay by natural bottom-to-top convection instead of getting trapped under the hood. Those are my opinions.
Last edited by keithinspace; 09-16-2016 at 09:32 AM.
09-16-2016, 09:49 AM
#18
Melting Slicks
[QUOTE=cuisinartvette;1593067538
Wow...thats a little on the porky side![/QUOTE]
Air conditioning option by itself is an extra 55lbs...
The doors are monstrously heavy, as are the power window motors by them selves; and of course the sloping back window.
The 80 weight reduction even went with thinner glass in the side windows.
If you like the 80-82 style front bumper, then there's quite a bit going for an 80 or 81; additionally remove the spare tire and amid stiff and the starting weight Should be in a happy place.
Adam
Wow...thats a little on the porky side![/QUOTE]
Air conditioning option by itself is an extra 55lbs...
The doors are monstrously heavy, as are the power window motors by them selves; and of course the sloping back window.
The 80 weight reduction even went with thinner glass in the side windows.
If you like the 80-82 style front bumper, then there's quite a bit going for an 80 or 81; additionally remove the spare tire and amid stiff and the starting weight Should be in a happy place.
Adam
09-16-2016, 09:58 AM
#19
Drifting
If there was ever a positive example of the "evolution not revolution" mentality...of making something that was OK incrementally better until it was AMAZING...the C4 is it. The 1984 car was not so good. The 1990 car was pretty darn amazing. And the 1996 Grand Sport was pretty much the gold standard until the 2002 Z06. Excluding the C4 ZR1, of course, because that was a pretty cool car too. Just in a little different place price-wise.
09-16-2016, 10:11 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Air conditioning option by itself is an extra 55lbs...
The doors are monstrously heavy, as are the power window motors by them selves; and of course the sloping back window.
The 80 weight reduction even went with thinner glass in the side windows.
If you like the 80-82 style front bumper, then there's quite a bit going for an 80 or 81; additionally remove the spare tire and amid stiff and the starting weight Should be in a happy place.
Adam
The doors are monstrously heavy, as are the power window motors by them selves; and of course the sloping back window.
The 80 weight reduction even went with thinner glass in the side windows.
If you like the 80-82 style front bumper, then there's quite a bit going for an 80 or 81; additionally remove the spare tire and amid stiff and the starting weight Should be in a happy place.
Adam
Shipping weight without fluids was 3,208lbs
Curb weight with fluids (standard features ONLY, no options) was:
3,336lbs
Add a few options and the car is in the 3400-3450 lbs range...easy!
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...t-Corvette.pdf
Last edited by jb78L-82; 09-16-2016 at 10:15 AM.