Cali,68,L-79

I have just replaced all the actuators/ relays/ check valve/ bypass valve after they failed the vacuum test as per http://www.corvette-101.com/ All failed the vacuum test, and after the incredible drama on http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=386680 I still have the same problem. The headlight switch must be bad REGARDLESS OF PASSING THE TESTS. Even the Corvette Techs at Brian's Classics in San Diego (WHERE MY CAR IS NOW) agree. So I'm getting ready to order the headlight switch. Had I done this the 1st time I could had avoided all that bullpoopie. Unfortunetly all the components above PLUS the headlight switch were all bad. Review the test page above and let me know if the directions/ instructions are correct or flawed. I'm sick of spending money on this never ending problem.

Cali,68,L-79

You know the more I think about it the more pissed off I get ($345.00 wasted). :jester I just want to keep all my expenses down. Less expensive to do your own work? Not when your a knucklehead

David

Older Than Dirt

I feel for ya buddy! Head light problems can be a b*#ch to fix. Don't you find it strange though that every headlight part was bad? I could understand maybe one or two components, but every one of them? All of your vacuum lines check out OK? :confused:

shoptek

If it is any consolation, at least you know what you won't have to repair for another 25 years! Been there done that. :cheers:

Ryan77

I believe I need a new headlight switch also, do you mean the actual pull **** assembly, or the switch in the dash (the one I need)? My buddy (a professional mechanic) did a bunch of vacuum tests and used some type of hand held device and the headlights closed and open perfectly. He determined that the problem was a switch of some kind in the dash that was not telling the headlights to open/close. Let us know how it turns out since I'll be tackling this project this winter.

fauxrs

David,

When I got my headlight switch I got a real good deal from "The Last Detail" their price was the best and delivery was mucho pronto.

FYI http://www.tld-corvette.com/

Stevo81

One night I had the pleasure of driving down the road when the headlights went dead. Totally. Out of reflex, hit high beams and got some light.
It hurts to spend $$$, but when it is on brakes, headlights, steering, could save ya life ..... :yesnod:

Nomad78SA

David,
I bet it is a pain working on your vette with that sweet paint job on it...I got a lot of stuff to do in the engine compartment and with a new paint job on it to boot..Any suggestions on what to do to keep from scratching it up.
Neil in Tenn

ROD NOCK

When most of the major components need replacement in a vacuum system, it makes me wonder how much hassle and $$$ it would take to convert to 'electric' motors?! :smash:

Cali,68,L-79

I think I'm going to try this;
HEAD LAMP SWITCH
DESCRIPTION: The head light switch is a push-pull switch with both electrical terminals and 2 small vacuum ports: the front port is marked 3 and the rear port marked 2.
LOCATION: The head light switch mounts in the drivers side dash board.

FUNCTION: The headlamp switch turns the headlamps on and off and signals the vacuum components to open or close the head lamp doors.
TROUBLESHOOTING: When closed (**** pushed in) attach the vacuum pump to port 2 and block port 3. Vacuum pressure should be maintained. When open (**** pulled out), port 3 will not hold vacuum. Attach the vacuum pump to port 2. vacuum pressure should hold.

Then connect the vac pump to the bypass outlet and plug the hose going to the realy tee and see if it holds pressure. That should determine 1 if the headlight switch is bad and 2 if the line running from the bypass to relays is bad.

David