Spring cutting/lowering front end
#1
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Royal Canadian Navy
Spring cutting/lowering front end
I'm in the process of lowering my front end. I would like to lower it at least 2" but not more than 3". My spring, Gymkhana suspension, is the same shape on both ends with a free length of 13-1/4". The coils are spaced about 2" apart except on the last coil at each end which is 1". Will I get 2" lower by cutting one full coil off one end only or should I cut one coil off both ends? I'm asking because I would like to do this job only once.
#2
My springs were 13-3/8" long. Cutting one coil shortened it to 12-1/4" long. The dimension from the floor to the top of the wheel opening in the fender went from 27-1/2" to 26".
#4
Melting Slicks
Strange...my SB sat way low in the front, bottoming on speed bumps, etc. When I pulled the gymkhana springs, the PO had cut 1/2 coil off each end. This shortened the spring so much that when on a lift the springs were loose in the pocket!
Most users say that the replacement gymkhana springs (not cut) sit perfect. I agree.
Most users say that the replacement gymkhana springs (not cut) sit perfect. I agree.
#5
Race Director
If the front springs aren't aligned correctly in the spring pocket, the front end will sit high. I'm running the 550# springs and it has a nice low look to it. Not slammed, but low without being completely ridiculous to drive.
When I first put the springs in, there was a massive gap. Re-aligning the spring dropped the front end something like an inch.
When I first put the springs in, there was a massive gap. Re-aligning the spring dropped the front end something like an inch.
#6
Nam Labrat
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This will probably take 2 attempts: There are no guarantees about ride height when it comes to cutting coils.
Notice how the ENDS of the spring are in-line so that the ends butt against the "stops" in the upper and lower control arms.
Also........the coil on each end of the spring is factory "bent" so the spring will sit in the control arms without "cocking" to one side.
When you cut one coil off, you need to make sure the cut is directly "next" to the original spring end.......(the spring will be easier to re-install after one coil is cut off).
The same thing should be done to the other spring.......then re-install the springs correctly into the pockets........drive the car over different roads for a few miles so the suspension will "settle into the lower ride height.........then re-measure the fender lip height to see how much the body lowered.
Then the decision will be up to you if another coil needs to be cut from each spring............AND FROM WHICH END OF THE SPRING that another coil will be cut from.
The above info is from threads I have read before cutting my own coil springs.....Wait for others to reply
Last edited by doorgunner; 05-12-2016 at 03:00 AM.
#7
Drifting
Not a fan as it is a pain in the behind to do this, but make sure when you cut the spring use a grinder with a cut off wheel and NOT a torch as it will change the spring metallurgy
#9
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Thanks for the replies folks. My car sits higher because I've removed the A/C, pollution gear and installed aluminium heads, water pump. This has resulted in a 3-1/2" gap between the top of the tire and the top of the fender arch. I've read other threads on cutting springs and will use a cut off wheel. I wasn't expecting both ends to be the same so I can cut either the top or the bottom but the end that gets cut will be placed in the lower CA.
#10
Race Director
Thanks for the replies folks. My car sits higher because I've removed the A/C, pollution gear and installed aluminium heads, water pump. This has resulted in a 3-1/2" gap between the top of the tire and the top of the fender arch. I've read other threads on cutting springs and will use a cut off wheel. I wasn't expecting both ends to be the same so I can cut either the top or the bottom but the end that gets cut will be placed in the lower CA.
Even with the engine and transmission out, I don't think I had a 3 1/2" gap between the tire and fender.
#11
Race Director
He may have smaller tires in the front, they should be about 27" in diameter. Cut one coil off the bottom and align the top coil into the top pocket.
#12
Race Director
Let's assume for sake of argument that I have a 1" fender gap. That's pretty close. The gap only increases by half of the tire diameter - the other half brings the car closer to the ground. For him to have a 3 1/2" gap, he'd need to be running 22" diameter tires. I'm still suspicious there's something wrong with his installation.
#14
Dr. Detroit
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#15
Dr. Detroit
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I would cut 1/2 coil....and reinstall.....you would need to take less from a gymkana spring than a standard as the spring rate is much higher....the spring is stiffer and shorter overall, smaller cuts mean bigger changes.
I took 1 coil from my 69 Big Block with Moogs to lower it 1 1/2"......but the springs were standard.
Jebby
I took 1 coil from my 69 Big Block with Moogs to lower it 1 1/2"......but the springs were standard.
Jebby
#16
Drifting
'Lowering' coil springs are relatively inexpensive. Why would anyone in this day and age still mess around with cutting springs and affecting ride quality and suspension spring rates when you can buy engineered springs to do the job properly?
This just seems to be a 70's era bubba solution that never went away IMO.
This just seems to be a 70's era bubba solution that never went away IMO.
#17
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Buying new springs is fine provided the car is all stock with no weight changes. Mine isn't, so there is a very good chance I would need to cut the springs anyway to get the height I want. If I need to remove the springs and cut a bit a second or even a third time I'm good with that.
I should have both sides done over the weekend in conjunction with installing poly bushings on all the control arms.
#18
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Let's assume for sake of argument that I have a 1" fender gap. That's pretty close. The gap only increases by half of the tire diameter - the other half brings the car closer to the ground. For him to have a 3 1/2" gap, he'd need to be running 22" diameter tires. I'm still suspicious there's something wrong with his installation.
Last edited by resdoggie; 05-13-2016 at 07:45 AM.
#19
Race Director
Buying new springs is fine provided the car is all stock with no weight changes. Mine isn't, so there is a very good chance I would need to cut the springs anyway to get the height I want. If I need to remove the springs and cut a bit a second or even a third time I'm good with that.
#20
Race Director
Are you sure the springs are currently installed correctly? That's my point. The 75 pounds of weight you mentioned would not cause a 3.5" tire gap. We're running the same springs and I'm clearly not at a 3.5" gap, tire to fender. If you want, I can get measurements of my fender to ground, I think I'm in the high 27s, low 28s.