EarnIt

My trans.has gotten so it does`nt want to go into reverse while car is running. With engine off it will slip right in but when running it just wants to grind. Forward gears are fine. Any ideas? Thanks

MotorHead

Adjust your clutch, just a idea :D

EarnIt

Adjusted the clutch today when I replaced the push rod from pedal to cross shaft. Free play on the pedal is right where it should 1-1 1/2 inches.

Chuck Harmon

Reverse gear is non synchronized. Momentarily shift into a forward gear, then shift into reverse.

Chuck

EarnIt

Chuck, I read that in the owners manual and it used to work. But not anymore.

MotorHead

BW Super T 10 is a very good tranny I think the Nascar boys still use the Richmond version of the Super T10 in there 800 HP stock cars today. Would be suprised if it is shot, probably something simple :D

redvetracr

motorhead,
The transmissions used in NASCAR are NOT even close to a Super T-10. Straight cut spur gears NO synchros, larger gears in a larger case. ...redvetracr

MotorHead

Normally I won't post anything unless I am sure. I had read that somewhere and I am going to find out where I saw it.

And I found it, it is probably a little misleading but on the Richmond site they describe the Super T 10 as the "Nascar standard" and have a picture of a Nascar racecar underneath.
http://www.richmondgear.com/catalogpdf/catpg33-35.pdf

Like I said I am here to help not to forward a pile of BS to anyone. In this case it was something I read that I posted. Most of the time unless I've done it or it's happened to me I won't post it, I guess in this case I was trying to make the orginator of the thread feel a little better about his problem as I know i feel a little down when something goes wrong with my car.


[Modified by MotorHead, 12:43 AM 9/7/2002]

redvetracr

Motorhead,
If you want to split hairs, OK the Richmond/Super T-10 is used in NASCAR. In some of the NASCAR touring series like the Re-Max series. It is absolutly NOT used behind an 800hp motor in a WINSTON CUP car. It is probably also NOT used in the Busch or Truck series either. The "standard transmission" (as used by most) are the Tex T-101 or the Jerico. These are FULL RACE pieces, straight cut spur gears, NO synchros. Go to the Jerico or the Tex racing web sites and you will see the differences, these transmissions also cost three times what you can buy a Richmond/Super T-10 for from Summit or Jegs. Sorry but they are not the same animal as the trans that came in a Corvette. ..redvetracr

Denney

Normally I would agree that the clutch is the thing to adjust, however, since you said you already have, I can only think that maybe the shifter linkage should also be adjusted (make sure the rods aren't partially engaging either the 1-2 or 3-4 gear throws when in neutral/shifting into reverse). I doubt the trans is the problem (I have a Super T-10 in my 66 and love it).

EarnIt

Denney, Thanks for your input. I will try to see if that is the problem.

bud snyder

Earnit,
Here is a tip. Install 3/8 nuts on the shift linmage rods. When you are happy with the linkage adjustments, use the nuts as jam nuts to keep the linkage arms from twisting.
Bud Snyder

Marv

Earnit-

I'm with Motorhead-I'd adjust the freeplay to 1 inch or even less just to see if it's the clutch dragging. That's where mine works best. My understanding is that as long as you have at least some freeplay at all operating temps and no slipping under power you are good to go. Good luck.

Marv-

EarnIt

Thanks Marv and everyone else. I am coming to the conclusion that my shifter may just be worn out. I am thinking of replacing it with a Hurst Comp. Plus.

Steve Straus

Since you checked for free play, have you checked that the throwout bearing is installed properly? (tangs on the clutch fork INSIDE the collar). If it is, you may have a worn out clutch fork.

I don't agree with the shifter adjustment theory. If it's grinding with the clutch pushed in, that means that your mainshaft is spinning when the clutch is pushed in, so something in the clutch assembly is dragging. If the shifter were that far out of adjustment, you'd have problems whether the engine was running or not. Check your Z-bar, clutch linkage, and fork for worn parts or excessive play. I'd be willing to bet the more you adjust out, the less severe the problem becomes.

bud snyder

earnit,
If you suspect that it is the clutch, you should be able to feel it slipping when acceleratoring. You may want to try appling brake and slowly leaving out the clutch until it stalls the engine.

Did you check the linkage bushing on the shifter & trans? If they are worn, this would cause the linkage to become out of adjustment.

You should also check the clutch fork ball stud, they do wear.

The stock GM shifter isn't the best, but I doubt it is worn enough to cause the problem you are having.

If decide to change your shifter to a Hurst you will never regret it! (# 391-7992). You can also get a shifter lever from Ecklers that will make it look original.
When installing, install the 1/4 dial through the shifter. I suggest that you then shift thru the gears a number of times to fine tune the linkage. I am pretty sure you will get new bushings with the shift linkage, if not buy new.
Install 3/8" jam nuts.


I have a T-10 in my 76 and they are a good trans, but IMO that are not an M22!!
Bud

75 Hot One

I've been wondering why such a supposed high performance transmission has such a low torque rating. The Richmond Super T10 & T-10 Plus are rated for only 375 ft-lbs. Definitely not what you'd want in a Nascar car or even a high perf street car.

EarnIt

Thanks for all the ideas. I dropped the trans today and am going to start replacing parts. Clutch, Press. plate, Throwout bearing, new shifter, clutch fork ball stud, etc...