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Please help with 327 removal!?!

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Old 12-22-2015, 07:28 AM
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Loghead68
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Default Please help with 327 removal!?!

I'm having troubles removing my 327 out of my 68. I have everything disconnected from engine and all the bellhousing bolts to the engine. I want to remove it without the tranny (which is an m22) because i really have nowhere to store it during the rebuild. I've had it start to separate but no luck actually getting it to slide out. I don't know if there is a way to get it out without removing the tranny to bellhousing bolts and taking the bellhousing with it. A step by step process on how someone has done it without removing the tranny would save my life right now. Thanks in advance guys!
Old 12-22-2015, 07:49 AM
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toobroketoretire
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You take the engine out with the bellhousing still attached.
Old 12-22-2015, 07:54 AM
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Loghead68
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
You take the engine out with the bellhousing still attached.
Thank you so much!
Old 12-22-2015, 08:20 AM
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SH-60B
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Did you take off the inspection cover? The flywheel will hit that if its still there.
Old 12-22-2015, 08:24 AM
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Alan 71
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Hi Lh,
I believe the inspection cover can stay in place because the fly wheel and clutch are coming out too if the bell housing is in place.
When removing the engine with the bell housing still bolted to the rear flange of the engine you need to be aware of a couple of things…
The front of the transmission must be supported before you begin the lift.
Secondly you'll need to slide the engine straight forward before you begin to lift up at all because of the length of the transmission's front shat, so make sure that you have clearance at the front of the engine… you don't want to have the fan hit the radiator.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; 12-22-2015 at 08:34 AM.
Old 12-22-2015, 08:35 AM
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marshal135
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Just reviewing.
You have both motor mounts disconnected, starter cable, all carb linkage, tach cable, brake booster vac line if applicable, altenator connections, fan shroud, radiator removed.
I just walked around the motor clock wise from memory.
It has been suggested by those with more experience than I that you reinstall the motor with the trans attached to avoid damaging the front input shaft. It will avoid bending it.
I would drop the trans first. Then put it on a safe dolly from Home Depot and wheel it in the corner till your ready for it.
Suggested since space is at a premium for you.
There is an engine hoist that allows you to tilt the engine in with trans attached. Have a couple buddies there to guide it so it doesn't break the fire wall.
A cats paw between the bell housing and the trans might dislodge the two. Go slow and easy they are both aluminum.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your rebuild.
A fellow 68ter.
Marshal
Old 12-22-2015, 10:11 AM
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74modified
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The input shaft sounds like your problem. If you still cant get enough forward movement on the engine, you may look at taking the trans loose and moving it back a bit. I usually pull both at the same time. Good Luck
Old 12-22-2015, 10:30 AM
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Loghead68
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Yes I have the inspection cover off, going to support the transmission and bolt bell housing back to block and unbolt it from trans after work today and see if I can pull it. I removed the radiator and everything else that could get in the way already.
Old 12-22-2015, 01:26 PM
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MotorHead
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You actually need an engine leveler ( of cousre it is possible to remove without one ) to take it out and put it back in. The engine must be on the same angle as the tranny if not it will hang on the output shaft end that is inserted into the crankshaft bearing.

You need to look under the car and see the angle of the tranny then try and get the engine on the same angle. It will have to move forward first and then up. I usually unbolt the bellhousiing and just take the engine out

Last edited by MotorHead; 12-22-2015 at 01:28 PM.

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