slickfx3

the pads were twice as worn as the left, the rotor seems more polished and wearing quicker, than the left, which showed no such wear

i bought the car like that

installed braided steel lines and bled, did not help

i tired to rebuild it but the seals would not go in and besides the bores were pitted like hell.

so i gave up on it

yesterday i bought a rebuilt from orielly and it felt good in my hands, everything moved freely.











the driver side pistons don't seem to moved as freely, upon inspection

before i pony up for another caliper,

what is this I keep reading about rotor run-out in the c2-c3? is this a symptom of this disease?

wombvette

A rear rotor placed on the front could. Make sure the rotor is well centered in the caliper and the pads are free.

slickfx3

yes they were// are, i spun the rotor and felt moderate friction, not unlike all the other rotors in the world, that i have messed with including the left side

the preponderance of wear in on the front face surface not the rear, i though the rear rotors were offset to the rears more

and the pads wore evenly albeit accelerated, i felt the wheels after a drive and for sure the front right was hotter than the left front, it was dragging way more and dusting the trim chrome rims black more than any other this is before i got the new caliper in

427Hotrod

The problem is more than likely the left caliper is NOT working and the right one is doing all the work...hence pulling and wearing pads more. Go to the other side and inspect that caliper/hose etc.

JIM

7T1vette

Could there be some mechanical resistance between the caliper and the bolts/pins on which they position themselves during operation. If the caliper can't move freely, you could end up with the condition you are describing.

4 speed

replace the rubber hoses, they can deteriorate from the in side and close up, also check for and kinked metal lines

pltmgr

Not sure what you did with the pads but on some vehicles I have had pull problems if I replaced brake pads on one wheel and not the axle set.

Zoix

Agreed check the flexible line.

wendellp601

The right side pads are worn more than the left side because the right side is working.

74modified

+2 for Jim above.
Runout would show itself by pumping air into the caliper, and would take a little time to happen. It is not a bad idea to check runout, and then mark rotor location/shims. Good Luck

454Luvr

I think you've only done half the job. If the bores were "pitted like hell," you should have replaced both calipers. You should also replace pads on both sides at the same time and make certain both rotors are in identical condition.

slickfx3

i wrote i put in braided lines, see pics

slickfx3

c3 brakes are fixed calipers and don't move the pistons do

slickfx3

before the brakes would warm i could lock both sides and i bled the left/both sides fine, they squirt out just fine

slickfx3

forgot to mention i flip flopped the pads, left to right and right to left

they"appeared" to be the same "semi metallic"

thats what i did first, i thought they were different one side performance and one not, i was wrong

slickfx3

always a hard pedal, even to this minute, no air,, i hope i don't have to ck run out

slickfx3

just bought the car, i see receipt (recent) with new right front caliper, that, did not look like it

so you are saying i pony up for a new caliper...

gkull

I've work on lots of older Vettes. I've gone to people houses and picked the car up to bring them to the shop and I've had some scary rides

The brake lines are often internally rusted. I've had unequal braking causing the car to pull left or right. I've also had brake drag after applying the brakes on just one caliper. So much rust that it would not release.

I would replace all the lines.

Rusted pistons usually just leak, but they work.

slickfx3

you mean all the lines in the car?

the fluid is crystal clear, and has been maintained it's whole life

Jebbysan

On these four piston units...it is best to replace the fronts in pairs....

Jebby