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Where to begin restoring my old 81? Potential Pitfalls?

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Old 05-03-2015, 02:15 PM
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realtordc
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Default Where to begin restoring my old 81? Potential Pitfalls?

I have a 1981 Corevette, 350, automatic, with about 100k miles.

I got it in 2000 while I was in high school and drove it for about 2.5 years.

In mid 2002 it had a problem that I never fixed and it has been parked ever since. A real shame, I was in HS and knew nothing about cars, my dad told me it was probably $1000 fix and I didn't have it at the time, they gave me an old family car to go to college in and while at college I forgot about it and I just let it sit. So it has been sitting for about 13 years.

To the best of my recollection the problem had something to do with the radiator or coolant lines. One day while I was driving it just overheated on me, I think someone we knew said it was a leak in the radiator. I cannot confirm any of this is reliable as I'm going on memory.

So now that I want to get it back on the road I imagine there are a lot of other things to think about besides just the radiator. Can you give me some advice and ideas on where to begin?

I have been told the car is worth maybe $3000 for just the body and parts, can anyone tell me if that is about right?

I'm also told that it'd be far better to sell the body and then just buy a working C3 rather than try to restore mine (if you are looking at it purely from a cost perspective. Mine does not have a great interior, body is decent but a few chips, ttops chipped in the corners, was experiencing some awful gas mileage 8-10mpg? and some electrical issues like headlights not always coming up and going down in a timely fashion.)

However, for the sentiment and the chance to restore something I think I want to give it a go.. I bought a BMW X3 a few years ago and have been doing the maintenance and troubleshooting on it and it has given me some knowledge of mechanics and desire to learn more... so with the knowledge I have I'm thinking..

1. Inspect, fix radiator and lines, flush and fill with new coolant.
2. New battery.
3. New oil & filter.
4. New air filter.
5. New brake fluid & bleed.
6. Drain and fill ATF fluid, new filter.
7. New spark plugs and wires.
8. Drain gas tank, put a few gallons of fresh gas in.
9. Change fuel filter.
10. New drive belts.
11. New power steering fluid.

Forgive my ignorance but MAF and O2 sensors do not exist on cars this old, correct? If they do probably replace those as well..

- After that try to get it started and see what happens, if it seems to be running, go for new tires and then start thinking about other jobs like interior, new ttops, paint, etc..

Comments? What am I missing? Clean the carburetor?

Last edited by realtordc; 05-03-2015 at 02:28 PM.
Old 05-03-2015, 02:40 PM
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mortgageguy
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If it were me, I would make sure that thing would start before I put all that money and time into it. It would be tragic to do that list of things only to find out the motor is locked up. Then I would make sure the brake calipers are functioning. I doubt if they are. Was the car stored outside?
Old 05-03-2015, 03:06 PM
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OMF
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I agree with morgageguy....the brakes, if not used on these cars, seem to need a fair bit of maintenance. change the oil and filter, put some new gas in it, get it running and move it around alittle....once you do this and are satisfied that things are OK, proceed with the rest of your list. To be able to Go and Stop is the most important thing.
Your list is good, the only other thing I'd look at is the tires.....they are most likely toast.
What part of the country you live in also has a bearing on what needs to be done....fill out your profile that helps to give proper advise.

Welcome to the forum.....lots of good info on here
Old 05-03-2015, 06:27 PM
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leadfoot4
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Originally Posted by sstocker31
......What part of the country you live in also has a bearing on what needs to be done....fill out your profile that helps to give proper advise.

Welcome to the forum.....lots of good info on here



If you're located where there's a lot of road salt used, and the car was driven at all in the winter, you should THOROUGHLY inspect the "birdcage" for rust damage, before spending ANY money on it. If the b'cage is OK, then check the frame for rust damage. You don't want to start throwing money at it, if you won't be able to drive it safely.
Old 05-03-2015, 07:00 PM
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DUB
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You can get so 'upside down' in doing this that areas that have been mentioned NEED to be inspected. And many more depending on what the inspection reveals.

You have to decide.....put money in a Corvette and do the work for a sense of accomplishment and NOT worry on how much time and money you are putting into it because you are NEVER going to sell it. If the sentimental value is that high...then the money and time you put into is NOT a variable or concern.

DUB
Old 05-04-2015, 03:06 AM
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RC81
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81 does have a MAF and O2 sensors.
Old 05-04-2015, 10:27 AM
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DaveL82
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I still have my 80 I bought in 83 so I know the sentimental part but mine has evolved over the years lol.

The 81 is basically the same as the previous years except for a few areas.

- ECU controls the car and distributor. If working OK and can be repaired. A lot of folks put an older carb and distributor on from an older vette to simplify the steup.
- chassis is same as the 80 with the aluminum diff. and cross member
- if automatic it also has he lockup torque converter to add a mile or tow when cruising. I ended up disabling mine and then did a 5 speed conversion.

Places to start:

First off the brakes will need to be serviced. I'm for suggesting the Wilwood direct replacement calipers. Modern design. Others may suggest rebuilding the old ones but if never sleeved with stainless it's not worth it IMO. Replacement with stock type I'm like why.

Next is the radiator. I went with a new aluminum radiator and dual fan kit from DeWitts. Bolts in and replaces the stock heavy radiator and fan/shroud. My vette never ran as cools as with the DeWitts setup. Also replace the thermostat and hoses.

Engine is replace all fluids. pull plugs and squirt a bit of oil in each cylinder. Let sit for a day or two then try to turn over with plugs out (yeah it can get a bit messy if oil sprays out but shouldn't be that much in there anyway). Can you drain the fuel tank at the fuel pump before hand? Put good gas in tank but no need to fill up and replace carb filter. You need a real 1 inch wrench for filter housing on carb and 5/8 flare wrench for fuel line. Then new plugs an try to start.


Next will be all the electrics. Door locks and windows will be the worse. Take of door panels before anything else as you'll need to lube every pivot with thin grease.

Now your on your way. Interior can be cleaned, parts painted and some replaced like the seat covers.

Last edited by DaveL82; 05-04-2015 at 10:31 AM.
Old 05-04-2015, 11:54 AM
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Tin_Can_Terminator
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Have a Part # for the Dewitt kit you installed ?
Old 05-04-2015, 12:33 PM
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doorgunner
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Do not drive the car if the engine will start!!!!!

Do all the fluid changes/make sure the engine will crank-rotate.

CHANGE THE ENGINE THERMOSTAT.

If the engine starts....let it run for only a MINUTE so it doesn't overheat......

listen for unusual engine noises........

look for coolant leaks.

Determine the cost to repair the engine overheating---engine damage problems before repairing anything else.
Old 05-04-2015, 07:05 PM
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ACTUALLY...if you plan on cranking the engine...and it has sat for so long...I would pull the distributor and PRIME the engine FIRST.

Originally Posted by RC81
81 does have a MAF and O2 sensors.
1981 Corvettes had NO Mass Air Flow sensor...and only ONE Oxygen sensor.

DUB
Old 05-04-2015, 10:53 PM
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Lakeside49
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If you don't start the overdue restoration project / and face it, the '0-82 C3's are in a special league unto themselves. You will always have bitter regrets.
Old 05-05-2015, 03:29 AM
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RC81
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Originally Posted by DUB
ACTUALLY...if you plan on cranking the engine...and it has sat for so long...I would pull the distributor and PRIME the engine FIRST.



1981 Corvettes had NO Mass Air Flow sensor...and only ONE Oxygen sensor.

DUB
Of course only one and I should have said it has a MAP not a MAF sensor and of course the MVS-Manifold Vacuum Sensor.

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