bronzebb

Is there a seal or cover for this?




Glad I checked before putting the engine back in. I need 0.014 offset dowels too.

claysmoker

You can cut a piece of rubber and stick it on the front side of the block plate. I don't know of a commercial seal that goes there. Most guys just let them bleed.

Typical Lakewood shield needing offset dowels. Try checking it without the block plate and see if it's the same.

427Hotrod

No need for anything in that area. Nothing to seal.

JIM

toobroketoretire

If you're showing .014" out of round you're only off by .007". I would clean the paint out of the dowel holes with a smooth rat tail file and then LIGHTLY bolt it back on again and see if you can THUMP it into position with a rubber mallet. What seems bad right now may not be bad at all. Gravity alone may be causing the bell housing to drop a bit.

bronzebb

I guess it doesn't need a seal or cover since the crank spins the same rpm as the drive shaft in 4th gear and there is no drive shaft cover.

It is off by 0.028" so I need 0.014". I removed and reinstalled the dowels measured twice and got the same result.

bmans vette

To the OP.....

The oil pan has its own seal.
After that there should be no fluids inside the scattershield.
There is a boot to cover where the clutch fork goes thru.
And I agree...you need offset dowels....pretty common with Lakewood shields.

toobroketoretire

It would be best to stand your engine in it's nose and then dial indicate the bore of the bell housing. By removing gravity from the equation and making sure the dowel holes are free of paint it may dial indicate perfectly. Remember if the dial indicator is showing a total of .014" run out it means the bellhousing is only .007" off in one direction.

Pop Chevy

No seal needed. I myself don't run the block plate, I'm worried more about my feet.

bmans vette

You do notice that in HIS PIC he shows a runout of .028...right?
That is where he is getting the .014 figure.
He is right.

gkull

This is doing it on my Vette. Leave the block saver out. put one bolt at the top mildy tight. Block saver plates require using longer dowels. I only use the allen locking type for ease of changing.


My red scatter shield had inconsistent powder coating paint depth on the hole where the dial indicator point rides rides. So I took it down to bare metal inside the hole with 800 grit. I've never bother with paint in the dowel area because powder coating is so hard.

Install both offset dowels exactly the same clocking position. Move them the same amount in the same direction. Measure it and then move. They work like little cam lobes rotating the bell housing around the crank center line.

With my plate and thin flywheel a the stock longer GM pivot ball works.