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I have a 75 and tonight on the way home while stopping in traffic, my brake pedal went to the floor.
this has happened several times before, and i replace the master cylinder and it's all fine.
I had also replaced some of the system in '08, 4 calipers and the master cylinder, and that worked for about 3 years.
This car gets used most weekends and on average it happens about every 9 months to a year now.
first i used reman'd units, and the last time i used a new master cylinder.
I also checked and haven't found any leaks.
I'm really starting to think it's ether a lot of bad parts, or i really suck at doing brakes.
What could be causing this to happen yearly?
I was just reading about runout, could that be a cause?
You likely have run out in the rotors. Every time you replace something you re bleed which solves the problem temporarily, but only addresses the symptom not the cause.
You likely have run out in the rotors. Every time you replace something you re bleed which solves the problem temporarily, but only addresses the symptom not the cause.
this is most likely the cause. You can shim the rotor to correct the runout or have them turned.
I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas, I spent mine with my family, was very nice.
Originally Posted by RC81
When mine did that it was the vaccum booster.
Originally Posted by Frank_Nesta
Did you vacuum booster exhibit the same problem. Fix a symptom or bleed them and they would be good for about a year?
Yes, i would like to know this too.
I've only seen the booster ether just die, or slowly go out, but never work fine, quit, then work fine, then quit again.
Originally Posted by wombvette
You likely have run out in the rotors. Every time you replace something you re bleed which solves the problem temporarily, but only addresses the symptom not the cause.
I'm going to look into this more, I miss having my weekend car.
I checked the passenger side front first, no leaks and the runout was under .002
the drivers side front tho, had runout of between .004 to.005, And i found a tiny leak on the inside caliper piston, i only noticed because it made the caliper paint peel in a tiny spot, so i'll be replacing the caliper soon.
when i went to remove the disk, it's still riveted, the front disc are still originals!
how can i insert a spacer if it riveted? Is drilling is in my future?
I also found a loose bracket on my steering which explains another problem.
Last edited by lilmonster; 01-03-2015 at 08:07 PM.
I checked the passenger side front first, no leaks and the runout was under .002
the drivers side front tho, had runout of between .004 to.005, And i found a tiny leak on the inside caliper piston, i only noticed because it made the caliper paint peel in a tiny spot, so i'll be replacing the caliper soon.
when i went to remove the disk, it's still riveted, the front disc are still originals!
how can i insert a spacer if it riveted? Is drilling is in my future?
I also found a loose bracket on my steering which explains another problem.
A couple of things. Why not rebuild the leaky caliper? Unless it is under warranty. Very easy to do. And you still have to bleed the brakes.
Drilling or having the disk turned? Your call.
What is the loose bracket used for?
A couple of things. Why not rebuild the leaky caliper? Unless it is under warranty. Very easy to do. And you still have to bleed the brakes.
Drilling or having the disk turned? Your call.
What is the loose bracket used for?
the caliper i'm replacing is the one I rebuilt back in 08, and i kinda didn't want to do it again, so i just picked one up local.
I still have to paint it and have the rotor turned.
The bracket is the hydraulic steering cylinder reinforcement Bracket, and it has a gap between it and the frame, i'll tighten it up when i put the caliper back in.
My steering has always been a little loose.
I've been a little preoccupied this past week getting this, an '04.
I have had the same problem, changed calipers 3 times and finally got smart and bought ss sleaved and O ring calipers instead of lip seal factory type.
Ecklers has them for not much more than Nappa.
the caliper i'm replacing is the one I rebuilt back in 08, and i kinda didn't want to do it again, so i just picked one up local.
I still have to paint it and have the rotor turned.
The bracket is the hydraulic steering cylinder reinforcement Bracket, and it has a gap between it and the frame, i'll tighten it up when i put the caliper back in.
My steering has always been a little loose.
I've been a little preoccupied this past week getting this, an '04.
I checked the passenger side front first, no leaks and the runout was under .002
the drivers side front tho, had runout of between .004 to.005, And i found a tiny leak on the inside caliper piston, i only noticed because it made the caliper paint peel in a tiny spot, so i'll be replacing the caliper soon.
when i went to remove the disk, it's still riveted, the front disc are still originals!
how can i insert a spacer if it riveted? Is drilling is in my future?
Do not remove the rivets. Never have a C3 rotor turned separately from it's hub or spindle. That will make runout worse, not better.
so here is the final outcome,
the caliper that went bad was a re-man'd one i got back in '08, not the one i rebuilt.
the store had records back to then and it was covered under warranty and replaced.
then there was a new leak and i thought it was the brake line because it was coming apart when i scratched it with my fingernail.
so i replaced all the flexible brake lines front and rear, and they needed it.
then there was another drip off the new caliper the next day, found that the new caliper was not smooth where the hose connection goes and the crush washer couldn't fill the gap and was leaking.
so i took that back and got another one, and it installed with no leaks, Finally.
so then i gravity bleed the system and then pressure bleed the system with my homemade presssure bleeder set to about 8-10psi
I also found that my steering bracket was broken
i got a replacement for $20 shipped from ebay, and installed it while doing the brakes.
now my car is back to normal (for a 40 year old car) stops and steers a lot better now.
12-25-2014, 06:07 AM
Brakes quit on Christmas Eve
this is most likely the cause. You can shim the rotor to correct the runout or have them turned.
are a lot of fun to drive. Enjoy!
