68 wiper door operation stiff
08-21-2014, 08:48 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
68 wiper door operation stiff
my wiper door assembly has sat for many years and now I have soaked it with WD 40 several times around the white plastic bushings without much results . Any help would be appreciated .I have the entire assembly out of car now .
Wes
Wes
08-21-2014, 11:45 PM
#2
Team Owner
All pivots and bushings should be lubed with white lithium grease (from a tube...not spray stuff). If the joints are free and haven't been modified, it should be fine if set up per AIM instructions.
08-22-2014, 01:58 PM
#4
Team Owner
I would suggest that you DO NOT try to remove the bolts holding the door to the linkage system. They are 'shoulder' bolts and are very weak. If the threads are corroded at all (and they always are), you will snap those bolts off with just moderate effort. It would be much better to try forcing a bit of grease into the areas of the bushings, then work the linkage until it frees up.
If you have soaked those bolts in WD-40 for several hours....PB Blaster is much better, IMO....you can try to loosen them. But, if they don't back out with just light effort, don't bother with them. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
If you have soaked those bolts in WD-40 for several hours....PB Blaster is much better, IMO....you can try to loosen them. But, if they don't back out with just light effort, don't bother with them. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
08-22-2014, 02:02 PM
#5
Team Owner
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The bushings are delrin and not supposed to need lube. Just the same, a little squirt couldn't hurt.
Be gentle and you can work the wiper door open and closed with your hands.
Be gentle and you can work the wiper door open and closed with your hands.
08-22-2014, 02:12 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
I have the entire assembly out of car now .
08-22-2014, 04:21 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
I would suggest that you DO NOT try to remove the bolts holding the door to the linkage system. They are 'shoulder' bolts and are very weak. If the threads are corroded at all (and they always are), you will snap those bolts off with just moderate effort. It would be much better to try forcing a bit of grease into the areas of the bushings, then work the linkage until it frees up.
If you have soaked those bolts in WD-40 for several hours....PB Blaster is much better, IMO....you can try to loosen them. But, if they don't back out with just light effort, don't bother with them. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
If you have soaked those bolts in WD-40 for several hours....PB Blaster is much better, IMO....you can try to loosen them. But, if they don't back out with just light effort, don't bother with them. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
Thanks
Wes
08-22-2014, 04:36 PM
#8
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Hi Wes,
The early wiper actuator was shaped like a 1 lb. coffee can, while the later (69+?) actuator is shaped like 2 small pie pans stuck together.
Regards,
Alan
The early wiper actuator was shaped like a 1 lb. coffee can, while the later (69+?) actuator is shaped like 2 small pie pans stuck together.
Regards,
Alan
08-22-2014, 06:05 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
thanks I have to buy one as mine has a small leak on the opening side .Mine is a May 68 car so looks like I need the 1lb can type if they are available ??Finally got wipers sorted out had several problems .Now off to getting headlights working then final painting so I can get this one sold and then finish up my 70LT1 Motion race car to take to Bowling Green around the new track.pm me and I will send you picture of 70 as I still cant figure out how to post pictures .i know it's easy but I guess I am
Wes
08-22-2014, 06:09 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
7T1 has some sound advice. If indeed it's out of the car, put it back in with the door attached, and grill off. I've had some success with the mechanics friend mixture of 50/50 acetone and ATF. If you soak the bushings for several days, the added rigidity of the entire assembly may allow you to gradually free it by coaxing it slowly.
Wes
08-26-2014, 03:58 PM
#11
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I would suggest that you DO NOT try to remove the bolts holding the door to the linkage system. They are 'shoulder' bolts and are very weak. If the threads are corroded at all (and they always are), you will snap those bolts off with just moderate effort. It would be much better to try forcing a bit of grease into the areas of the bushings, then work the linkage until it frees up.
. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
. If you snap off a bolt, you will have to drill out the stub and, in that process, damage the threads. Any reworking of those threads will cause a misalignment of the bolt with the linkage and cause binding. Not a good situation.
The riveted pivot fasteners in the door brackets may be the cause of the friction. I know Paragon at one time sold all of these riveted pivot fasteners and an installation tool. Maybe the pivots are the culprits.
08-26-2014, 04:40 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I removed the door on my 70 and snapped one of the little bolts. I went to J&D Corvette to buy a salvage door. They probably had about 50 doors. I started looking at them one by one. Door after door had a snapped off bolt in it. Lets say there were exactly 50 doors I looked at. When I got to the 47th door, I found an undamaged one!
The riveted pivot fasteners in the door brackets may be the cause of the friction. I know Paragon at one time sold all of these riveted pivot fasteners and an installation tool. Maybe the pivots are the culprits.
The riveted pivot fasteners in the door brackets may be the cause of the friction. I know Paragon at one time sold all of these riveted pivot fasteners and an installation tool. Maybe the pivots are the culprits.
09-12-2014, 02:48 PM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
7T1 has some sound advice. If indeed it's out of the car, put it back in with the door attached, and grill off. I've had some success with the mechanics friend mixture of 50/50 acetone and ATF. If you soak the bushings for several days, the added rigidity of the entire assembly may allow you to gradually free it by coaxing it slowly.
Wes