Sidepiper

Just put this car back together a month ago.

Took the car on a half hour drive to home depot. Can out, the starter just clicks. Got someone to jumpstart me, same thing happens...the alternator is turning Slowly so I am assuming the motor is too. I also have a battery shut off switch that I turned off before I went into depot.

This is what I have.

New Starter,
New positive and negative cables,
Tight and clean ground chassis connections.
New Battery.
New Alternator.


No heat shield is installed and I do have headers......is this my problem? With the starter being hot would it still click like this?

I'm home now but the car is still there.

1969RAY

Besides what you have, you need AAA.

Sidepiper

Very funny, I hope the next time your broke down someone throws an egg at you.

MelWff

You need a voltmeter to check the battery. You also have to check all battery connections, at the battery, at the starter, and the ground.

Easy Mike

Probably.

Yes. It will probably start after the solenoid has cooled down.

Chinaski

Are you running Long Tubes? What kind of clearance do you have between the starter and headers? Mini starter or the behemoth GM one?

Mike Ward

I think the poster was being serious and was right. Get AAA or similar. I was going to suggest shopping at Lowes instead of Home Depot but figured correctly that you have no sense of humour.

tyancey00

when it cools down it should fire. Did it start?

Snoopysvet

Is it in PARK?


This happened to me once LOL!

Sigforty

I agree with what they said about the starter solenoid getting too hot. How long were you in the store? If it was a quick in and out that could be the case. I have often used a lug wrench or other tool to tap on the starter solenoid and that sometimes would get it to work.

Paul L

My Hagerty classic car insurance policy includes road-side assistance. It is an option but reasonably priced.

CaseyJones

I, too, was going to suggest AAA as a serious secondary way to get help while on the road. It has saved my butt several times.

A heat-soaked starter is probably the problem if all your connections are good along with the grounds. With headers, a shield of some kind for the starter or using one of the newer mini-starters really helps.

We are all (well, mostly all) friends here and more than willing to help. We all get a zinger occasionally. It's part of the camaraderie.

briankeery

Did you get her home safe Sidepiper? Never cool when a brother is broke down.

doorgunner

Sidepiper.......the Dude never breaks down!

"There's always a b-a-a-a-d egg in the basket"...who usually makes a not-so-welcome-at-the moment-point.......

(The good new is......in Heaven our cars will never break down.....and all the "bad eggs" will become good eggs!)

1969RAY

I'm chuckling at the egg toss. If I had one for every time I've broken down, I could make an omelet for ten.
Mine's in the driveway right now--after I nursed it home on seven cylinders. They need a lot of TLC--and they don't care where they quit you.
Hope you get back and fixed soon...

lurch59

Bump start it if it's a stick, if not never mind.....

SCHOONS

Bat could be bad, even if new
Also could be a bad solenoid, again even if new
I have hooker headers and no shielding on my starter, never had a problem with heat.
Should start with a push if stick.
Good luck

Sidepiper

Well as far as the posters who were offended at my jab back for the triple AAA post..maybe you need to loosen your belt because I was kidding as well. I stopped getting my feelings hurt on forums 10 years ago. Lol!!

Anyway, I went back about 5 hours later and she was still clicking, after I tried a few times it finally cranked and started. Drove home for 30 minutes, got it in the garage and shut it down. Guess what? It fired right up...ha! I'll install the heat shield and see what happens. Btw. I have hooker headers and new stock style starter. Thanks dudes!

cv67

Old cars just pizz ya off sometimes dont they?

(esp after going through the whole thing!)

TX-Techman

Really need to check the voltage at the solenoid, battery connection on starter, and contact M which is power to starter with key in start position. If voltage is constant and good, you could have an alignment issue with the starter and need a shim or 2.

Otherwise just need to back track and determine where the voltage loss occurs.

I had this issue with my 69 for a while and it ended up being the neutral switch losing connection under load.

If not start back tracking