trailing arm bolt tricks
07-27-2014, 09:47 PM
#21
YEP...I am glad that you posted what your trailing arm bushings looked like and how they acted when you freed-up the arms. I have done so many of these darn trailing arms, etc...that I can look at them and KNOW that they are wiped out. I am glad that you confirmed it.
You know where I am ...and if you need to have the trialing arm bushing staked in...let me know because OBVIOUSLY...I have the staking tool for them.
And if the splines on the lower shock mount bolt in your bearing carrier housing have really bad worn down splines...I would get a new pair and carefully re-stake them back in when you are going back in with the trailing arms/strut rods.
DUB
You know where I am ...and if you need to have the trialing arm bushing staked in...let me know because OBVIOUSLY...I have the staking tool for them.
And if the splines on the lower shock mount bolt in your bearing carrier housing have really bad worn down splines...I would get a new pair and carefully re-stake them back in when you are going back in with the trailing arms/strut rods.
DUB
STRICK 9
07-28-2014, 06:58 AM
#22
Yeah,
I'm with DUB on this. I've used the long needle nose pliers for this job and it works great. Frame on, car on jacks, about 30 min/side.
People who freak out and write half a mile of text on this forum about how hard this job is have never been in a REAL mechanical pickle.
The only time this job is a bear is when the parts are badly rusted.
I'm with DUB on this. I've used the long needle nose pliers for this job and it works great. Frame on, car on jacks, about 30 min/side.
People who freak out and write half a mile of text on this forum about how hard this job is have never been in a REAL mechanical pickle.
The only time this job is a bear is when the parts are badly rusted.
07-28-2014, 03:24 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Yeah,
I'm with DUB on this. I've used the long needle nose pliers for this job and it works great. Frame on, car on jacks, about 30 min/side.
People who freak out and write half a mile of text on this forum about how hard this job is have never been in a REAL mechanical pickle.
The only time this job is a bear is when the parts are badly rusted.
I'm with DUB on this. I've used the long needle nose pliers for this job and it works great. Frame on, car on jacks, about 30 min/side.
People who freak out and write half a mile of text on this forum about how hard this job is have never been in a REAL mechanical pickle.
The only time this job is a bear is when the parts are badly rusted.
07-28-2014, 07:21 PM
#24
Race Director
STRICK9:
I do have to admit...If it is a Corvette that uses the shims with NO slots....it does take more time...and it is kinda pointless to have them all in when ti goes to the alignment shop....because they have to be set-up when the car is at the alignment shop which can take hours to complete. You might get lucky in getting the shims correct if you pack them all in...but I have NEVER been that lucky. But there is a 'trick' on this issue also....dealing with speeding up the alignment process. COMMON SENSE comes to play here...or at least I feel it is common sense.
But even with that written.. I do it the same way....the only change is that I install a few shims on the inner section first when the bolts is inserted....then slide the trailing arm in place and get the bolt to go into the bushing.
If you are going PURE...then install the shims as they came in your car. But if you are not going PURE....then I would drill a hole for the long cotter pin and use the slotted shims. I have many customers who want it as PURE as possible....and then some of them weigh out the point loss for the improvement to this area and many others.
Go ahead....Keep it up....you just can not leave it alone.
You must just LOVE to poke at a hornets nest. I work on Corvettes everyday...so I have an unfair advantage. I am NOT putting myself on a PEDESTAL....and I would wish you would not make 'others' feel like they do not match up to what I do....which is totally ridiculous. This is NOT a race. BUT...
Kid Vette...anytime you want to have a competition with me when it comes to doing QUALITY service work on a Corvette. Just come on over and we will see who is standing when the smoke clears. Heck...who knows...it may actually be you who does it BETTER, FASTER and with more QUALITY DETAILS than myself.
DUB
I do have to admit...If it is a Corvette that uses the shims with NO slots....it does take more time...and it is kinda pointless to have them all in when ti goes to the alignment shop....because they have to be set-up when the car is at the alignment shop which can take hours to complete. You might get lucky in getting the shims correct if you pack them all in...but I have NEVER been that lucky. But there is a 'trick' on this issue also....dealing with speeding up the alignment process. COMMON SENSE comes to play here...or at least I feel it is common sense.
But even with that written.. I do it the same way....the only change is that I install a few shims on the inner section first when the bolts is inserted....then slide the trailing arm in place and get the bolt to go into the bushing.
If you are going PURE...then install the shims as they came in your car. But if you are not going PURE....then I would drill a hole for the long cotter pin and use the slotted shims. I have many customers who want it as PURE as possible....and then some of them weigh out the point loss for the improvement to this area and many others.
You must just LOVE to poke at a hornets nest. I work on Corvettes everyday...so I have an unfair advantage. I am NOT putting myself on a PEDESTAL....and I would wish you would not make 'others' feel like they do not match up to what I do....which is totally ridiculous. This is NOT a race. BUT...
Kid Vette...anytime you want to have a competition with me when it comes to doing QUALITY service work on a Corvette. Just come on over and we will see who is standing when the smoke clears. Heck...who knows...it may actually be you who does it BETTER, FASTER and with more QUALITY DETAILS than myself.
DUB
07-28-2014, 08:03 PM
#25
Buy NEW high quality long reach Sawzall blades..... 
Get the car up on a lift , where you can put your back into Sawzall , with a good blade , it will mow right through the rubber, bolt , shim and everything else.
Get the car up on a lift , where you can put your back into Sawzall , with a good blade , it will mow right through the rubber, bolt , shim and everything else.
07-28-2014, 09:59 PM
#26
STRICK9:
I do have to admit...If it is a Corvette that uses the shims with NO slots....it does take more time...and it is kinda pointless to have them all in when ti goes to the alignment shop....because they have to be set-up when the car is at the alignment shop which can take hours to complete. You might get lucky in getting the shims correct if you pack them all in...but I have NEVER been that lucky. But there is a 'trick' on this issue also....dealing with speeding up the alignment process. COMMON SENSE comes to play here...or at least I feel it is common sense.
But even with that written.. I do it the same way....the only change is that I install a few shims on the inner section first when the bolts is inserted....then slide the trailing arm in place and get the bolt to go into the bushing.
If you are going PURE...then install the shims as they came in your car. But if you are not going PURE....then I would drill a hole for the long cotter pin and use the slotted shims. I have many customers who want it as PURE as possible....and then some of them weigh out the point loss for the improvement to this area and many others.
Go ahead....Keep it up....you just can not leave it alone.
You must just LOVE to poke at a hornets nest. I work on Corvettes everyday...so I have an unfair advantage. I am NOT putting myself on a PEDESTAL....and I would wish you would not make 'others' feel like they do not match up to what I do....which is totally ridiculous. This is NOT a race. BUT...
Kid Vette...anytime you want to have a competition with me when it comes to doing QUALITY service work on a Corvette. Just come on over and we will see who is standing when the smoke clears. Heck...who knows...it may actually be you who does it BETTER, FASTER and with more QUALITY DETAILS than myself.
DUB
I do have to admit...If it is a Corvette that uses the shims with NO slots....it does take more time...and it is kinda pointless to have them all in when ti goes to the alignment shop....because they have to be set-up when the car is at the alignment shop which can take hours to complete. You might get lucky in getting the shims correct if you pack them all in...but I have NEVER been that lucky. But there is a 'trick' on this issue also....dealing with speeding up the alignment process. COMMON SENSE comes to play here...or at least I feel it is common sense.
But even with that written.. I do it the same way....the only change is that I install a few shims on the inner section first when the bolts is inserted....then slide the trailing arm in place and get the bolt to go into the bushing.
If you are going PURE...then install the shims as they came in your car. But if you are not going PURE....then I would drill a hole for the long cotter pin and use the slotted shims. I have many customers who want it as PURE as possible....and then some of them weigh out the point loss for the improvement to this area and many others.
Go ahead....Keep it up....you just can not leave it alone.
You must just LOVE to poke at a hornets nest. I work on Corvettes everyday...so I have an unfair advantage. I am NOT putting myself on a PEDESTAL....and I would wish you would not make 'others' feel like they do not match up to what I do....which is totally ridiculous. This is NOT a race. BUT...
Kid Vette...anytime you want to have a competition with me when it comes to doing QUALITY service work on a Corvette. Just come on over and we will see who is standing when the smoke clears. Heck...who knows...it may actually be you who does it BETTER, FASTER and with more QUALITY DETAILS than myself.
DUB
07-29-2014, 06:07 PM
#27
Race Director
Thanks DUB, I think they are back in as they came out, but, I see your point....about points. They don't matter to me as this will be a driver when finished. I'll take a new set of slotted shims with me to the dealer here who has an alignment man who "I hear" is pretty good.
I hope that you checked to make sure that you do have a FLAT SURFACE for the shims to lay against the special tapered washer in the trailing arm bushing. I have seen MANY arms that people have put in and they did not grind or file own the raised portion of the sleeve that was staked to hold the assembly together as designed. TRUST ME...it makes a difference.
GOOD LUCK with it all...getting the rear toe as good as possible is fun....to 'say' the least. And NOT meaning to tell you something that you alignment guy may or may not know. Even though you adjust the camber AFTER the toe setting is complete. TRY to get the camber really close when you are setting up your rear toe. BECAUSE...if your CAMBER is really way out.....and you get your toe set perfectly...DO NOT be shocked if when you set the camber....that it effects your toe setting and your are back there again re-doing it.
Same thing with the front end...get the toe-in as close as possible first.
YES...I am also aware that for me it is all a 'numbers thing' on the print out I give the customer as a matter of record. And I know the first time you drive it...the alignment will change....especially if you hit raised man-hole covers and pot holes...or go over speed bumps too quickly.
Which is why being to over obsessed with the numbers can drive you crazy and make you spend all day on something that if you put the alignment heads back on after a short test drive...the numbers will be different.
DUB