Questions - MSD advance recurve kit
#21
Safety Car
I don't understand why you have your idle speed at 1,000" R's. That seems high unless you have a really big cam. Also, having any mechanical advance at idle just seems wrong. Advance should start above idle rpm, and max out at ~36* at the speed your build does best with.
Pete
#22
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
mechanical advance at idle will almost always create an unpredictable and inconsistent idle.
Use what ever combination of springs it takes to make sure the initial advance is steady (advance should not start until above idle rpm) and the total is around 34* to 36* all in by around 2500 to 3000 rpm.
Neal
Use what ever combination of springs it takes to make sure the initial advance is steady (advance should not start until above idle rpm) and the total is around 34* to 36* all in by around 2500 to 3000 rpm.
Neal
#23
According to the instructions MSD gave me the heaviest springs have 0 advance at 500, 0 at 1000, and 8 at 1500 and the lightest springs have 8 degrees at 500, and 12 degrees at 1000 which is pretty much my idle speed. Use the medium springs and you get 0 at 500 and 8 at 1000. I'm going to take MSD's word on the spring specifications rather than yours.
There are no blue springs in my advance kit. There are copper coloured springs (light), silver springs (medium) dark grey springs (heavy).
There are no blue springs in my advance kit. There are copper coloured springs (light), silver springs (medium) dark grey springs (heavy).
#24
Le Mans Master
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I don't understand why you have your idle speed at 1,000" R's. That seems high unless you have a really big cam. Also, having any mechanical advance at idle just seems wrong. Advance should start above idle rpm, and max out at ~36* at the speed your build does best with.
Pete
Pete
#25
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There's the problem. If I use the light or medium springs I get centrifugal advance at idle. If I use the heavy springs (one of which I buggered up so can't use) I get no centifugal advance at idle but I don't get max centrifugal advance of 18 degrees until 5500 rpm so to get 36 total even at that rpm I'd need base timing to be 18 degrees which I suspect would be too much for the motor to crank easily.
#26
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Ah, my mistake. You have the 8428 kit for GM HEI. I was referring to the 8464 advance kit for MSD distributors. The tuning principles are still the same though. You need to set your 'all in' timing to 36 degrees either with a dial back light or timing tape. Then, you can play with the provided springs until you get the timing in as soon as possible without affecting idle stability. From my experience, if you're idling on the advance curve, the engine won't always return to full curb idle speed. It will tend to idle a few hundred rpm higher when fully warm. Good luck.
#27
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Maybe I need to buy a different brand of advance kit. When I removed the old centrifugal advance mechanism the bushings on the advance weights were mostly gone and the advance weights were somewhat floppy. The advance springs didn't seem particularly weak though so that makes me wonder a bit if the erratic idle and timing at idle was really due to the original centrifugal advance mechanism although I can't think of anything else that would cause that (I'm by no means an expert though).
When I was looking for a recurve kit I went to one place and they sold me a set of springs for $10 and when I got to the car I saw the package said "For Delco points distributor" so I took it back. It wasn't an MSD brand and the springs looked the same as the ones I got for the HEI distributor. Would those springs work on my HEI distributor? Should I go buy those springs and experiment with them to see if I can get no centrifugal advance at idle but 36 degrees total at 3000 rpm?
When I was looking for a recurve kit I went to one place and they sold me a set of springs for $10 and when I got to the car I saw the package said "For Delco points distributor" so I took it back. It wasn't an MSD brand and the springs looked the same as the ones I got for the HEI distributor. Would those springs work on my HEI distributor? Should I go buy those springs and experiment with them to see if I can get no centrifugal advance at idle but 36 degrees total at 3000 rpm?
#28
As I said to chevymans77 both the medium and light springs give centrifugal advance at idle and with the heavy springs to get 36 degrees total advance at 5500 rpm I'd need 18 degrees base timing which might be excessive. I also appreciate your confirming that the engine sometimes hovering at 1300 rpm idle and then settling gradually to 900 rpm is due to idling on advance curve.
Last edited by Neil B; 07-24-2014 at 11:25 AM.
#30
You seem to be stating you dont want to recurve your distributor but on the otherhand you purchased a kit designed to do that. So what are you really trying to accomplish? If you just trying to correct for a worn out stock spring buy the correct spring from a Corvette vendor otherwise read this link, use the Mr Gasket kit.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...t%20Timing.pdf
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...t%20Timing.pdf
#31
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Yes, if the engine is hovering at 1,300 even though you set curb idle at 900, you are definitely idling on the curve. Your engine will probably like 18 degrees initial. It will probably feel a bit snappier with the extra initial timing. If the idle hunting isn't something you can live with, you really don't have a choice but to use the heavier springs or lower the idle speed. 900 rpm is pretty high - my DZ302 with a 254@.050 camshaft will idle at 900.
I'm just going by what the GM Corvette service manual says, idle for a '79 L82 4 speed should be set at 900 rpm. If I set it any lower the idle quality deteriorates too much.
#33
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Priya, the instructions are saying if you use both the heavy springs your advance will be as advertised. You need to use a combination of the springs that works for your set up. Use one heavy and one medium and test to see what your curve looks like, then if it is not what you are looking for use one heavy and one light spring and do another test to see what the actual advance curve is.
Tune for your needs with a combination from the kit.
Neal
Tune for your needs with a combination from the kit.
Neal
#34
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You seem to be stating you dont want to recurve your distributor but on the otherhand you purchased a kit designed to do that. So what are you really trying to accomplish? If you just trying to correct for a worn out stock spring buy the correct spring from a Corvette vendor otherwise read this link, use the Mr Gasket kit.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...t%20Timing.pdf
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...t%20Timing.pdf
While initially I just wanted to replace the stock spring once I bought the recurve kit I thought maybe it wouldn't hurt to modify the factory advance curve while I'm at it. Really either way is good for me.
#35
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Priya, the instructions are saying if you use both the heavy springs your advance will be as advertised. You need to use a combination of the springs that works for your set up. Use one heavy and one medium and test to see what your curve looks like, then if it is not what you are looking for use one heavy and one light spring and do another test to see what the actual advance curve is.
Tune for your needs with a combination from the kit.
Neal
Tune for your needs with a combination from the kit.
Neal
As I buggered up one of the heavy springs I currently have one heavy and one medium spring in there so I'm going to check it today and see how that looks. I spoke to hubby about it last night and he didn't think it was a good idea to used mixed springs as this would cause uneven pull on the advance weights and uneven wear. I know most, perhaps all, of you disagree with this, but he's the boss and I'm probably going to go with what he says.
#38
As I buggered up one of the heavy springs I currently have one heavy and one medium spring in there so I'm going to check it today and see how that looks. I spoke to hubby about it last night and he didn't think it was a good idea to used mixed springs as this would cause uneven pull on the advance weights and uneven wear. I know most, perhaps all, of you disagree with this, but he's the boss and I'm probably going to go with what he says.
#39
Melting Slicks
Factory idle specs 900 because of the low 12* initial advance. Advance it to 18* and you can reduce the idle to 750 and still be smooth