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82 won't start

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Old 07-18-2014, 10:24 AM
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runningstart
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Default 82 won't start

When I turn the key to 'ON' the dash lights up and I hear the fuel pump. When I then turn the key to 'START' the only thing that happens is I hear a small click beneath the armrest, which I presume is the neutral safety switch (but I don't know this for sure, if someone could verify).

I think I've ruled out most of the items in the NO START sticky above, so I'm needing some assistance troubleshooting this. There are no ECM codes.

In the couple of months since this began, the car has started 2 or 3 times but then after shutting down it goes back to not starting. Battery has 12.6 volts on the voltmeter.
Old 07-18-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by runningstart
When I turn the key to 'ON' the dash lights up and I hear the fuel pump. When I then turn the key to 'START' the only thing that happens is I hear a small click beneath the armrest, which I presume is the neutral safety switch (but I don't know this for sure, if someone could verify).

I think I've ruled out most of the items in the NO START sticky above, so I'm needing some assistance troubleshooting this. There are no ECM codes.

In the couple of months since this began, the car has started 2 or 3 times but then after shutting down it goes back to not starting. Battery has 12.6 volts on the voltmeter.
I had similar issues with getting my 82 to start. I checked all my connections and grounds, alternator, starter and battery with no luck. I removed my starter, alternator and battery all are easy to get at and remove. Took them to the local AutoZone (They test all components for free) and turned out the starter was shot. I read somewhere in the forums that due to the proximity of the starter to the exhaust pipe, the starter if not shielded or wrapped in an insulated blanket will overheat and prematurely wear out. All has been working fine since. I hope this helps.
Old 07-19-2014, 08:15 AM
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Jud Chapin
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Before pulling the alt. and starter which is a lot of work, esp. the starter, I'd take the battery to Advance or Autozone for a load test after checking for clean cable connections. That's assuming you not miles and miles away from one. This could very well be your problem. In the mean time, I'd pick up a battery load tester which I think every DIYer should have along with a battery charger. Amazon's got the testers for as low as $35 or so. Good luck.
Old 07-19-2014, 11:48 AM
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runningstart
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Ok will get batt tested first then pull starter, its a walmart batt and doesn't get used much.
Old 07-19-2014, 05:53 PM
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MAKE SURE that you CAREFULLY INSPECT the condition of the battery cable ends at the battery...and make sure that the terminals in the cables are CLEAN...and the terminal bolts are TIGHT.

The alternator has nothing to do with the engine cranking....only for charging.

I have run into many engines that when I got down by the starter that the wires going to the solenoid were TIGHT...but when these wires were loosened...the stud bolts was actually loose and caused the problem.

IMPORTANT...right behind your passenger valve cover is a connector that has 5 or 6 big wires going into it. this junction can fail...BECAUSE this is where you allow the power to get to the starter. I repair this spot often due to its crappy design.

DUB
Old 07-24-2014, 07:55 PM
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runningstart
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UPDATE

Took the battery and got it checked out, it is OK. Then after cleaning the battery cable ends with steel wool and reinstalling battery the car fired right up. Good so far. Pull it into the garage, shut down, won't restart.

This is similar to one of the other times it started when I found the loose negative battery cable, tightened it and fired up only to not start again.

At this point I have doubts that the problem is the starter. Any other suggestions as to the possible problem are welcomed.

Oh, I do still need to check out that connector behind the passenger valve cover that was mentioned by DUB.
Old 07-24-2014, 08:37 PM
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Mr DUB is the connector as mentioned in your post in this photo?

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