Drawmain

EOS stands for "Engine Oil Supplement" and it's GM's additive for flat tappet cams. I don't know if you can get it anywhere but the dealer, but EOS is only one option. Any additive for cam break in will do. Remember, you will be running the engine for 20 minutes at 2000 to 2500 rpm. The assembly lube you used to install the cam will be gone long before that 20 minutes is up, you will need the higher levels of zddp for break in. I'll be going thru this in a few weeks when my rebuild is done. Any cam break in additive will do, Lucas makes one http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-...e-tb-zinc-plus that works well. You should be able to get it at the parts store locally.

Drawmain

I just checked and Advance Auto Parts has it in stock locally here.

hugie82

Double check everything before you start it and rev the crap out of it for 20 minutes.
You have the exact build I was planning with the exception of a 383 stroker I had in mind. Can't wait to hear how your car runs!

alconk

Excellent! Thank you!

alconk

Yes will do, if interested I took a crap load of pictures throughout this process. I did even go so far as pulling the motor for a nice cleanup and paint job.

Drawmain

I would LOVE to see those pictures, Al. I've got a thread going myself here.

alconk

Well I can post them one by one which would take a ton of space up but not sure how I can group them together like I see other members have done??

Drawmain

If you have the pics uploaded on Photobucket just follow the instructions in the sticky.

alconk

Great reading now, will try either tonight or tomorrow.

alconk

Ok I finally finished up , it's 1:50 am and poured in the antifreeze. Looked under the car and great nothing dripping. Few minutes later checked again and see a steady drip coming from the right front corner of the engine block and oil pan mating. I have checked everywhere and can't find the leak. Pulled the dipstick and had no anti-freeze in it but what am I missing??? Completely dry around the cylinder head. No leaks coming from the water pump or hoses, coming right at that corner. please help I'm frantic!! I do not want to pull the head...

Drawmain

Check the water neck and the mating surfaces of the water pump. Also check where the coolant sensor is.

alconk

I found it, one of the water pump bolts was loose but I did not use any thread sealant on them. Should I?? Does it go into a water jacket??

Ok now another problem, was all excited today to start it for the first time and cranks fine but is back firing like crazy and shooting up through the TB. I checked the distributor and its pointing to #1 with the balancer at 0. Checked all the wires and they are fine. So that leads me to possibly think the valves are too tight.. I know when I was setting the valve lash I would set them and come back and all of them would be loose again. So I kept doing it and doing it. I have about a 1/4" or more of threads showing on the rocker stud. And looking in the valve it's open maybe a 1/2" or more. I don't know if that's normal or not??

alconk

See are these too tight? Look at the threads.

hugie82

YES your valves are too tight!!!

alconk

Oh thank you, thank you!! How many turns would you back off?

hugie82

You might have to loosen all the valves and crank the engine or spin the oil pump to pump the lifters back up. They bleed down about 1/8 of an inch and that's the looseness you saw after cranking. Tension from the valve spring pushes the plunger down in the lifter as the oil bleeds out.

Water pump, head bolts and intake bolts need sealer. Most do go into a water jacket.

Your distributor is most likely 180 degrees out. Turn the motor to TDC with the rotor pointing away from #1 ? Than pull it turn it 180 and drop it in.
You're getting there. The valves are going to be a PITA but when all else fails you would rather have a valve tap than a tight valve.

hugie82

I'm gonna get abused but an easy trick is get 1 cylinder adjusted and count the threads on top of the stud. Than adjust the rest the same. Usually you'll have 3-4 threads on top of the rocker nut. You have 8-10,that's how I know they were too tight. Take your time and a valve tap you can take care of after the break in...

alconk

Ok great hugie82 thank you so much!! I'll see what happens.

alconk

Yep hugie82 the distributor was 180 deg. out. She's up and running and sounds strong. All the valves have been re-adjusted and no leaks. Have not set the timing yet, need a helper to keep the Rs up while I disconnect the brown plug to time it. Thanks so much for everyone's help!

hugie82

Try moving the distributor 1/8 counter clockwise and fire it up again. If it runs better, go more. If it runs worse, go clockwise. You're close but you don't want to do the timing light dance and keep it running at the same time
Then when you get it running ok, then dial her in

Great job BTW. I HOPE SHE RIPS!!!