I think my 81 CCC/ECM is bad ?!?!?
#122
Hypertech only sells a standard chip, I don't think they do any customizing at all...but it's worth a shot. I would still get a cam on a 112 or 114 though...and bowl port the heads/back cut the valves and do 3 angle valve job while they're off the engine.
#123
I'm going to put up a rather long winded post here just to help illustrate a point here. Years ago, in either Car Craft or Hot Rod magazine (I forget which), Jeff Smith did a buildup of a 420 small block Chevy for an '85 Monte Carlo SS that uses basically the same Q jet and ECM as your '81. They used ported iron aftermarket heads, had the stock intake ported, put on Edelbrock T.E.S. exhaust (tubular manifolds, not full length headers) into the stock cat and then put on a dual 2.5" exhaust system. The Carb Shop worked over the Q jet, the car had a 2500 stall converter installed and they kept the stock 3.73 gears. The cam in use was a "special" 260 degree (adv) cam from Comp on a 112 lobe center to "keep the computer happy" and a long defunct Edelbrock product called the Micro-Plus (basically an intercept box that allowed an end user to pick from a number of different timing curves by setting DIP switches inside the box, another similar product came out later from Crane called the Crane EPS (engine performance system) that had more functions available). That engine had 70 more cubic inches than you have and ported heads, a stall converter, gears, etc...and the best it could muster was a real low 13 quarter (like 13.17) at I want to say around 110-112 mph. They used a 112 lobe center, and they had WAY more inches, head/intake/carb flow and gearing than you, and more tuning choices (with the Micro Plus and the carb was built for the combination). They said they were going to drop the gears back to 3.42 and keep playing with it until they got it in the 12s...never saw that issue (if it exists). I think the deep gears with that many inches/that much low end torque hindered their ability to hook it up off the line, and they were using the stock single snorkel air cleaner which limited top end power. I also feel that with 420 cubes they could have gone to a 270 degree cam (still on a 112 to 114) to make more power and shift it up the RPM band a bit. Take all that for what it's worth, YMMV.
#124
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C6....thanks for the background (not sure why I didn't get a notice u replied?!?!) so sorry for delayed responce. I know I'm not building a rocket ship here, just going to correct the wiped cam and get some better perf out of her. I already have true duals w/ mangaflows..no cats. MSD coil, wires, cap, rotor (accell 7 pin) CCC dizzy module , rebuilt Qjet. I plan on the hypertech chip after I get her running. If this new cam (and map sensor change) go well I should be pretty happy with her while I decide where I want to take the performance level, etc.
#125
I told the story to illustrate that even with a much bigger engine they still stayed mild on the cam, not to say you weren't building a rocket ship...more cubes cushion the effect of a cam being too big, when a cam says "noticeable idle" that means there will be problems with idle quality, which will mess with the MAP sensor and make the computer think there's a vacuum leak and then give a crappy spark advance curve because of it...POOF, there goes your "performance increase". Buy a cam on a 112 or a 114...I'm telling you. The carb is going to have to be re-jetted too by the way...or you'll be lean, which will ALSO make performance less than optimum.
#126
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well guys I finally had a day to do the tear down
Fl heat got to us after hour 5...heads are almost off but cam still in...here is what #7 and #4 exhaust lifters look like...pretty big indent on them...root cause at least 50 % here...when I remove the cam I'll find the rest
Fl heat got to us after hour 5...heads are almost off but cam still in...here is what #7 and #4 exhaust lifters look like...pretty big indent on them...root cause at least 50 % here...when I remove the cam I'll find the rest
#128
Gurus,
On my Stock 81, I am under full CCC control, no error codes/CEL
The following is occurring:
I Advance the timing to 16-18, even 22.....the knock is less present until higher mph and I get a tiny bit of perf..tiny....so to me going that far advanced tells me the CCC/ECM is not really calculating correctly and thus I’m getting the terrible perf/bad timing....
thoughts??
My setup:
On my Stock 81, I am under full CCC control, no error codes/CEL
The following is occurring:
- Timing set to 12 BTDC (Timing light verified on #1 Cylinder)
- base timing set by disconnecting the Dizzy pigtail
- Idle is great, smooth and strong
- Drive on road - starting at 5 MPH I get terrible knocking (sounds like hammers banging rapidly on the block)
I Advance the timing to 16-18, even 22.....the knock is less present until higher mph and I get a tiny bit of perf..tiny....so to me going that far advanced tells me the CCC/ECM is not really calculating correctly and thus I’m getting the terrible perf/bad timing....
thoughts??
My setup:
- Freshly rebuilt Q-Jet (the E4ME electric controlled / CCC) ** Built by national Carb’s in Jacksonville Fl
- MSD Coil, Cap, Rotor, Accel Ignition Module (MSD doesn’t make one for the 81 CCC)
- MSD 8.5 MM plug wires
- Corvette central true dual exhaust (no cat – straight to Magnaflow mufflers)
- Stock TH350 trans with stock 2.87:1 Dana 44
- 86K miles on the original 350 motor
On a more serious note, I can remember working at the Chevy Dealership in 81 when CCC was first introduced, right behind Ford's 1980 release of their EEC3 system, both of which attempted to take a carburetor and convert in to fuel injection. I'll be watching to see how this comes out. Good luck brother!
#129
That looks a lot like the cam looked in my 81 when we pulled it out. Did you have any problems pulling the lifters? Two of mine had a ridge around them that I basically had to force them up through.
#130
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm traveling for work this week so I won't get back at it until the weekend.
#132
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey fellas...I just got back from a week of work travel and spent a few hours this AM getting the rest of the motor torn down. The cam was a bear to get out, looks a bit worn ( see attached image). The heads came off pretty easy and the cylinder walls all look very clean, no Knicks, grooves, ets. I got my dial gauge out and all bore's still measure 4.000.
We stoped at pulling the cam gear on the crankshaft as I don't have a puller with jaws so going out later today to grab one.
Next step is all the clean up I need to do....I'll post before and after a when I do that.
We stoped at pulling the cam gear on the crankshaft as I don't have a puller with jaws so going out later today to grab one.
Next step is all the clean up I need to do....I'll post before and after a when I do that.
Last edited by Brians1; 08-03-2014 at 12:31 PM.
#134
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey guys also i forgot to mention I found this on pass side head....what does this discoloration mean on the valve ? *besides another issue I had coming lol
#135
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Green Valley Arizona
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Ahhh....brings back memories.....nothing says LOW compression like a set of dished, 4 valve relief pistons!!
Not sure if the brown exhaust valve is from a lean mixture or not. Have to wait and see what the experts say.
Not sure if the brown exhaust valve is from a lean mixture or not. Have to wait and see what the experts say.
#137
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#139
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Side note/question.....what solvent should I used to get the block clean before I put the new head gaskets and heads in ?
#140
Instructor
If it was pointed at #6 on the cap then you are probably ok (which is basically the passenger seat) . Turn the motor over one more time and see if it is pointed at #1 then. If it's 180 out the car probably wouldn't start and if it did it would idle horribly. Just do that before you pull it all apart.
However, in saying that, you might want to verify that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 0 when you are at TDC. If it isn't you need a new harmonic balancer.
I am trying to recall, did you buy a scan tool to see the values the ECM is seeing? If so, make sure your MAP value seems right along with Coolant Temp Sensor and RPM.
However, in saying that, you might want to verify that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 0 when you are at TDC. If it isn't you need a new harmonic balancer.
I am trying to recall, did you buy a scan tool to see the values the ECM is seeing? If so, make sure your MAP value seems right along with Coolant Temp Sensor and RPM.