6.2 MPG Problem
#83
Melting Slicks
Wow, I really feel for you, but I'm glad I have been following this thread as I may have to pull my own balancer for the same reason. I think the timing marks have walked because the timing light is telling me that the engine is running over 45 deg advance at idle with the vac advance disconnected. No detonation, nothing sooooo.
I guess with the balancer heated and some freeze spray on the nose of the crank the thing should practically fall on? Wonder how hot the balancer can be before the bonding of the rubber gives out?
I guess with the balancer heated and some freeze spray on the nose of the crank the thing should practically fall on? Wonder how hot the balancer can be before the bonding of the rubber gives out?
#84
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Steve
#85
Melting Slicks
I used to put bearing races on shafts back in the day, we used an induction heater to heat them and it was very effective in making them drop on v's push fit. Can't recall what the temp was though.
#86
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hot/cold is also how I install wheel bearings on V4 Honda motorcycles. The bearings go in the freezer, and right after I heat up the hub with a propane torch, they drop right in with hardly any encouragement.
#88
Le Mans Master
You know, I'm not really convinced a warm HB would go on much easier than an unheated one. First, you can't really get it hot, because of the elastic setting of the outer ring. Second, by the time the HB is a quarter of the way on, heat sink action will have chilled the HB down to the crank's temp. The interference fit of the HB to the crankshaft is significant (nice way of saying it's real fuc#*n' tight). I am spending the extra $$ and getting a better tool to install this HB........... once I get the busted stud out.
Steve
Steve
The difference on mine was the interference was reduced from .004" to .001". I measured it.
You have already proved can happen when you don't use heat.
Anther guy recently was able to drill his broke bolt out by making a collar that fit around the shaft wit a hole in the center. He then drilled incrementally larger holes until the bolt was free to come out.
That bolt is pretty hard. Not easy to drill.
Maybe you can use a Dremel and a small grind stone to get a groove that you can tap on to walk it out.
#89
Race Director
Yeah, that would be my approach also: A good dremel (the corded, strong one) with a small cut-off wheel. Cut a groove and use a flat-bladed screwdriver.
#90
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You leave the HB in the oven for 25 minutes. That gets it good and heat soaked. 250* doesn't seem to bother the rubber compound.
The difference on mine was the interference was reduced from .004" to .001". I measured it.
You have already proved can happen when you don't use heat.
The difference on mine was the interference was reduced from .004" to .001". I measured it.
You have already proved can happen when you don't use heat.
#91
Center punch good and hard. Will give you a mark to drill and knock it loose some.
Reverse drill bits if you have them. Drill it all the way through (important) before trying an easy out. Lots of penetrating oil and try the easy out. Don't break the easy out in there. If it wont move, keep increasing the drill bit size and easy out size.
Also heat,the balancer, cool the crank. You can buy dry ice for about $1/lb and have some leftover to make some fog.
Reverse drill bits if you have them. Drill it all the way through (important) before trying an easy out. Lots of penetrating oil and try the easy out. Don't break the easy out in there. If it wont move, keep increasing the drill bit size and easy out size.
Also heat,the balancer, cool the crank. You can buy dry ice for about $1/lb and have some leftover to make some fog.
Last edited by Garys 68; 05-25-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#92
Race Director
Center punch good and hard. Will give you a mark to drill and knock it loose some.
Reverse drill bits if you have them. Drill it all the way through (important) before trying an easy out. Lots of penetrating oil and try the easy out. Don't break the easy out in there. If it wont move, keep increasing the drill bit size and easy out size.
Also heat,the balancer, cool the crank. You can buy dry ice for about $1/lb and have some leftover to make some fog.
Reverse drill bits if you have them. Drill it all the way through (important) before trying an easy out. Lots of penetrating oil and try the easy out. Don't break the easy out in there. If it wont move, keep increasing the drill bit size and easy out size.
Also heat,the balancer, cool the crank. You can buy dry ice for about $1/lb and have some leftover to make some fog.
As a machinist for 25 years, left handed drill, low rpm, lots of pressure.
Also heat it up if you can.
#94
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Alleluia!
With a little help from the worlds smallest chisel...
..it spun right out!
I learned a stud broken by stretching is a helluvalot easier to remove than a stud that broke due to over torque. On the first tap from the chisel, it moved. I was so relieved.
Lesson learned.
And THANKS for all the ideas.
Steve
P.S.: Now perhaps I can get back on track with the thread's title!
..it spun right out!
I learned a stud broken by stretching is a helluvalot easier to remove than a stud that broke due to over torque. On the first tap from the chisel, it moved. I was so relieved.
Lesson learned.
And THANKS for all the ideas.
Steve
P.S.: Now perhaps I can get back on track with the thread's title!
#97
Le Mans Master
Get the paint off the crank snout where the balancer has to slide over it, it increases the diameter of the crank snout.
Make sure you grease the seal or outer diameter of the balancer where it contacts the seal or it can burn up your seal quickly if it is run dry.
Make sure you grease the seal or outer diameter of the balancer where it contacts the seal or it can burn up your seal quickly if it is run dry.