JhStephens

My 82CE with all stock parts ran fine last week but wouldn't start today. It would turn over with a lot of power but wouldn't start... also didn't notice the primer sound from the injectors (I apologize for lack of terminology). I messed with the orange wire (20 amp fuse) in the battery box, moving it around - taking out the fuse and putting it back in, since I had an issue with that before. Eventually I was able to get the car to start but it ran really rough and with the hood up I could see and hear a spray every 10-15 seconds coming from the fuel injector cover area. What could be causing this and what should I check first? I'm new to working on cars and learning as I go with the internet and the Haynes manual. Any help is appreciated.

MelWff

can you do a fuel pressure test? when is the last time you changed the fuel filter?

JhStephens

Fuel filter was changed in 2010 but I don't drive it very often. Is that something that can go bad over time without driving it?

As far as a fuel pressure test, is that something I can do with it running like this? I've never done one before but I'm sure I could get the testing kit and figure it out.

jdp6000

Are you low on gas? You may be sucking up bad gas from the bottom of the tank.

Yes you can check the fuel pressure even if its running bad. When's the last time you changed the fuel pump? There is also a rubber hose in the tank that attaches to the fuel pump that can deteriorate.

Fuel pressure should be between 9-12 PSI. the closer to 12 the better. You have to check between the 2 TBI's. The pressure regulator is in the driver side TBI.

Jim

JhStephens

It's near full. Just filled up last time I drove it (last week).

Fuel pump and hose were also replaced in 2010. The hose was deteriorated after sitting in a barn for several years..

As far as checking the fuel pressure, that will be a task for saturday afternoon. Wonder if one of the autoparts stores loan those out..

Thanks.

DUB

Water sits on the bottom of a fuel tank...and even though the filter sock is designed to NOT allow water to pass through it...it will allow water to pass through it IF it is submersed in water.

Doubtful that the fuel pressure tester gauge is available through an auto parts store. And you will need more than that. A 5/8" flare wrench to remove the steel fuel line and also a possibly modified 3/4" open end wrench to hole the fitting that the fuel line is threaded into...because they can spin if not held.

Not wanting to cast a dark cloud on this situation...

If you are not a mechanic...and or have tools to do repairs on your Corvette...this may be an uphill battle. NOT writing that you will not win the WAR...but it may be a battle nonetheless. Certain areas of the engine will require special tools to do it RIGHT. Just "speaking" from experience.

And YES...your engine can fail due to not being regularly cranked and driven. Not "saying" that it WILL...but it can. Where it is stored when not driven...if it outside under a car cover and neglected...you can run into condensation from moisture that can effect ignition components along with numerous other issues. Doubtful that that is the case..because you stated that you drove it last week and it was fine...but "stuff" happens. Mice can cause major problems due to they often times eat into things that need to be intact (obviously).

Did the "check engine" light ever come on when the engine was running???

I have encountered the vacuum hoses that attach to the rear of the throttle bodies can pop off and cause a vacuum leak...which will effect how it runs.

If you plan on checking the fuel pressure...it will take a special set-up and also special tools that will allow you to remove the factory fuel line and attach the set-up needed to check the fuel pressure...and sometimes...they can be a BEAR to remove.

Poor fuel quality/water in the fuel can easily be the culprit.

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is way out of spec and may need adjusting ....but sometimes...but not always it will set a code...causing the check engine light to come on.

IAC valves (Idle Air Control) can be faulty..causing a vacuum leak and the car will be hard to keep running.

EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Re-circulation) can be also stuck in an open position due to a piece of carbon...which will make it really hard to start... if at all.

If you plan on working on your own car...get a Factory Service Manual. I would not use the "others" out there...they often times lack important information.

And lastly...due to this being a computer controlled engine...you will more than likely need a volt/ohm meter, test light, numerous other tools and I could not live without my scanner that can read data in real time when the engine is running.

DUB

74 LS4-454

Also check the "sticky" to help you track down the problem(s)....lots of info there.........Tom