chrisNY

posted on general as well but since I had so much luck posting here too, why not lol.

going to try and resolve this issue one last time before I decide to give up and live with it for a while longer, wipers work fine when first turned on, than after a few minutes start to hitch like a vac system, not a smooth motion (kinda annoying), and pulse never worked, replaced switch (replaced with 2 new ones, first one seemed to have a bent arm, and didn't work at all, gatta like repop, lol, sent back after being told this never happens with these switches, they are all tested, maybe the second one is bad too?), still had the hitch in the movement, but pulse kinda worked, will park in the pulse position and wipe every 12-15 seconds, so I figured lets try the new pulse module they just came out with, received it today and put it in, followed the instructions and unhooked the battery and everything just so I would not jinx it, but still the issue, not pulsing any faster and change in pulse speed at all, is there something else in the system I am missing other than replacing the motor itself? or is that all that is left to try?? any new ideas would be very gratefully appreciated, Thanks

0Willcox Corvette

How about we take the "other' parts out of the equation...

Take the bell crank loose from the motor (so the arms don't move) and power up the motor (bench test in the car). If the problem is still there... then buy a motor. If the problem goes away.. Post back..

1973-1982 Wiper Motor Testing.

chrisNY

what about testing the pulse issue? is there a combination on the motor to make it think the switch is on intermittent? do you have a diagram or a pic of the bell crank to remove it or point it out? just disconnect the arms from inside the cowl?
I thought at one point I saw something about a arm inside the motor that controlled the pulse movement?

0Willcox Corvette

I have all the schematics on that system.. but I can't publish or share them at the moment. I'm sorry, it is something we are working on and we've made some changes we don't wish to publish at this time.

If you dig deep on here you'll find the intermittent controller schematic from GM..

But lets start with easy.. You have a new controller box.. it works as did the other one. You have a new switch.. it works as did the other one.. So lets take the motor out of the equation...

The bell crank is the arm attached to the wiper motor that controls the wiper arms.. One nut holds it in place and you can see this nut by raising your hood.

Willcox

chrisNY

I will remove it in the morning and bench test the motor on the car, am I reading the schematic correctly that says the wiper fuse is removed from fuse panel for delayed pulse circuit, or if the 25 amp inline fuse could be bad maybe??? or is that the black box I have down by the fuse panel that I always wondered what it was?

chrisNY

removed the arms, and cover to check the resistor, its still there, I am kinda thinking that is why I am getting the hitching in the wiper motion after it has run a few times, bench tested on the car as in the video, and it worked like I expected, I got it to power on high, low ( I think anyway the battery I used was not very strong, but it moved on both) and it parked as I expected. when it does go into the pulse setting, it doesn't park all the way back down in between cycles ( the only one speed it does pulse) it kinda parks up at the bottem of the window. any thoughts?????

just tested after put everything back together, now the pulse just runs on low

0Willcox Corvette

Chris.. is the pink wire plugged into the washer cover? The cover has built into it a position contact that tells the pulse where the arms are with every sweep. If it is plugged in, are the contacts good inside, is the rub block still on the end of the lever?



Willcox

chrisNY

Yes the pink wire is plugged in and my washer works, I bent the contact arm down a little I think that I pushed it to far that's why the pulse is now on low but not 100 percent sure about that any thoughts about the resister causing the hitch, the rub block is stilltthere. And the contacts look clean

0Willcox Corvette

That arm should not be bent.. it is what tells the controller the position of the arms.. this may be your problem. That pink wire is not for the washer it is for the pulse module.

chrisNY

I will re adjust it tomorrow, does a new motor come with a new resistor and arm in the cover?

chrisNY

do you have a pic of how the arm should be in the proper position? maybe over the years mine moved a little or the pad is to worn? but the rheostat in the new switch is still not changing the speed at all, before I changed the position and after

chrisNY

I was just looking over the wiring schematic and had a few questions, can I jump the resistor and have it work??, if I have power to the washer, which is coming off the pink wiring than the pink wire must have power going into motor, but does that pink wire turn off and on, to make it pulse? can I meter it with the pulse turned on to check that? or can I bench test that by unplugging it and putting power directly to the pink wire? since the motor itself seems to pass the bench test, which I kinda figured it would because the high and low and park setting worked already, so I am figuring its gatta be connected to that pink wire somehow

0Willcox Corvette

I've not had a chance to look at the schematic yet, I made this picture for you today showing the position of the rub lever and the ohms for the resistor.

I'll try to this afternoon.

Willcox

chrisNY

awesome pics thank you, when i cleaned the rub contact, I noticed a crack in it, I soldered the end to make a clean connection, and re adjusted my arm to 1/2" off to try it now, I will let you know if anything changes

can you buy just the pulse cover, with the contact and resistor???

FireballXL5

Following along... ;-)

chrisNY

got the motor cover back on with the arm in the proper position, fixed the crack in the arm, cleaned the contact on the motor where it touches and added a little dielectric grease to the pink plug and the contact on the motor, everything is back to working the way it was, still only pulses once every 15 seconds or so, no adjustment at all

the only thing I have not tested is the resistor itself, and tested to see what the pulse signal is that should be coming from the new module, and if it varies when you turn the pulse speed rheostat in the switch. I am getting continuity from the module to the motor and the pink wire because the washer would not run without it, I have not been able to find the inline 25a fuse under the dash though, I have checked the 25a fuse in the fuse block and that's fine, I would assume if the inline one is shot, nothing would work. would be nice if that's what the problem was lol

0Willcox Corvette

How long ago did you purchase the controller? The manufacturer of the controller pulled this product due to failures... they were not available for a long time... You might have one that fell in that category. If the motor is stopping in the right place, were past the motor cover being the issue.

Willcox

chrisNY

The controller is the new version just purchased from CA last week, the switch i replaced last summer, like I said at the start took 2 tries to get one that seems to work right

0Willcox Corvette

I know you just replaced both, but one or the other has to be the issue. Which one I can get you past the switch probably..

You can check the switch to see if it varies ohms between H and I... when you turn the dial the ohms should vary. Below is a quick instruction sheet I made a while back. It'll tell you how to test the switch. If the switch pass's then start pinging the wires from the switch to module, you might have something broke. However, your issue is indicative of a component issue not wiring.

chrisNY

this is what I have concluded also, which is my worst fear, I hate changing this switch it the most awful pain in the **** of anything I have done on my vette, I just had the dash apart a few weeks ago to swap out the light switch, every time I pull the cluster I wonder is it going to go back in ok or is something else going to break, like the printed circuit board, I just pulled my old control module apart and checked that, cleaned up a few corrosion spots and made sure the pathways were clear and sure enough nothing blown and everything was good, put it in and tested same issue, so hence it has to be the switch, as to the wiring I agree its not indicative of a broken wire. now if I order the switch from you can you double check it and make sure the pulse rheostat and everything is working before you ship, cus like I said I went through 2 other brand new repop switches from other vendors last summer and if I have to pull the cluster and everything I only want to do it ONE more time, cus there is absulotly no other reason for me to do this again, lol
I have to leave in a few hours to my run up to MA if you can get back to me asap I can call and place this order, but I want to make sure I get the one you check or test for me