Wig

I have installed my new steering package, but before I complete the task, I just want to find out from others who have installed this package, is it necessary to have the two jam nuts on the set screws where the linkage connects to the rack? I don't want to grind on the motor mount support if I really don't have to.

ddawson

At the VERY end after you have everything lined up and complete take out one set screw and apply some thread locker. No jam nut needed.

Then rotate and do the other.

I still have to grind some of the mount to clear though.

pauldana

i used a roll pin, very tight, and loc-tite

Speed Direct

In the supplied fastener kit there should be two short set screws to accommodate this situation. Jam nuts are not required if you use thread locker but use medium strength so you can remove them if needed. Also, don't forget to first tighten the flat side set screw on the pinion and then the indented, rounded side. That will keep rotational freeplay out of the connection.

pauldana

Well... since Speed Direct has chimed in.... how do you get your unit to not be so easy in steering... i would like to feel a tighter, less assist, power steering... there is to much assist in my opinion. I like my C5 as far as tightness... this is what i want in the c3...

so, fix??

Speed Direct

Paul, you can do a couple of things. 1. Maximize positive caster (with aftermarket control arms or mods you can get up to 6 degrees positive). 2. Reduce the pressure in the pump by adding shims to the relief valve relief valve

1969RAY

I really like this option. But since I'm a little slower than most on this form, do you have a picture of where the shims would go?

Wig

Thanks. I did use the short screws. Everything went well. Quite easy to install.

Speed Direct

Good to hear, Wig.

1969RAY, The shims are on the pressure relief piston which is just behind the output port on the pump. You don't have to remove the reservoir to get to it. Just unthread the port and use a magnet to get it out.

The piston is the part in the middle of the photo.


The end threads off and shims are stacked to reduce the pressure output. Fewer shims increase the output. Typical pump output in 1100-1300 psi. We recommend 850 psi.

1969RAY

Perfect!

pauldana

do you know approximately many shims equal how much pressure? would be nice to know so as to get around the correct pressure. Also, do you know what the recommended pressure is for a hydro-boost braking system?

Speed Direct

No shims 1350 psi
1 shim 1200
2 shims 1100
3 shims 1000
4 shims 850
5 shims 700

pauldana

do you know what the hydro boost braking system requires?

Speed Direct

Hydro boost typically requires 2.5 gpm and 850 psi. Without hydro boost we recommend 2 gpm and 850 psi. Changing the gpm flow rate requires a different flow valve and is not usually done but it is another effective way to reduce steering effort.

pauldana

so both require the same psi? i increased the volume with a larger hole

Speed Direct

Essentially, yes. You can run lower pressure with just the rack but the hydro boost needs a bit more flow and pressure. If you increased the orifice size then that will increase your boost on the steering. What size orifice did you wind up with?

80vette21

Not to completely jack the OPs thread, but since Speed Direct is being cool and answering questions and I actually was going to call tomorrow I'll just throw it out there! I installed a power Steeroids on my 1980 about 2 years ago. I noticed the tie rod ends seem to have a little play. I know it's normal for there to be a little play in the wheels from the rack bracket rotating, but this actually seems to be in the rod ends if you put your hand on it. They aren't like typical tie rod ends and they almost look like they are a non-wear part being solid ball and socket. Are they non-wear, or do you guys recommend replacement? I couldn't find individual parts listed on your site.

As far as adding shims to the pump output, I would love to lessen my assist a little. I agree with the above post, the car feels a little jumpy as is. What do you use for shims? Also without being under the car I can't picture it perfectly but you can get to that output without even taking the pump/reservoir out of the car right? I can't remember how well you can get to it from underneath.

Thanks!

Speed Direct

80vette21, the tierods are typically very durable so unless you have a lot of miles on them I wouldn't expect they would need replacement. Often you can detect movement that is really just natural give in the material. Keep in mind that the steering loads are the greatest when the car is stationary. So you will see movement that wouldn't happen at any other time. with that said, we sell the individual rodends if needed. rodends

We sell a shim kit here Yes it is possible to remove the fitting while the pump is on the car.

80vette21

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the total miles on the kit but it should be pretty low. I'll take a better look at the ends again and see if I think they need replacing.

I'm going to order the shim kit right now, I didn't realize it was such a simple fix. Thanks for the info!!

80vette21

$14 to ship the $20 shim kit? Yikes! It says it weighs 1 pound and looks like it should fit in an envelope. You guys shipping from Antartica? Lol