DBez93

Scrubbing my engine and the block casting 10066036, is this the original 78 l82 block?

L88Plus

Probably not, it's a "hecho in Mexico" block, used as GM's Targetmaster crate engine replacement. Looks like they're all 4-bolt, at least from all the descriptions I can find.

DBez93

Alright, so I did some research on it and they're reviewed as garbage, I was sold the car being told it was numbers matching :/ it's gushing oil and you can hear the valves ticking... It's also burning oil but it seems like valve seals (doesn't start smoking for about a minute, then stops after 5) so I guess I'm probably gonna just save and buy a zz4

Indiancreek

What oil pressure does it have?

DBez93

My Guage runs at a constant 40, but it could be inaccurate

L88Plus

I've read a lot of threads about hecho en Mexico blocks.
The Ford guys prefer them, claim they're better.
I've also seen a few builds using them. Nothing stands out, good or bad.

Solid LT1

I guess if your putting a 302 Ford into your Vette a "Hencho En Mexico" block is good but there isn't much good about a Chevy one. WTF? Why would you even post into this thread about a Ford subject?

TeaEye

Here some links which may help:

After some light reading.....here is my Executive Summary. Two quotes from the many links.

1. I've heard some people say that these block are crap, but many others have used them for years without problems.

2. Ive put hundreds of them in light duty fleet trucks. You put the engine in tune in up a bit & send it out the door & never have to mess with it again. They are better quality then the original equip. engine in the car's & 1/2 tons. I would put it in with a good 4 barrel, HEI, & dual exhaust & it will probably do everything you want.

Links

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums.../t-112947.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=226879
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...kel-block.html

http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com...nch-350-specs/

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/gm-1...ne-132141.html

googling 10066036:
10066036...350...........4...Goodwrench crate motor, 2-piece rear seal, "Hecho en Mexico"

10066038...350.....94....4...Goodwrenc… crate motor, 2-piece rear seal, "Hecho en Mexico"

Both are the same engine. It's the std goodwrench 350.

249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM

10067353 Brand New Goodwrench 350 Engine 1971-1985 Car and light Truck Replacement Engine.

Engine consists of the following parts:

Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036
2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main

Crankshaft- # 3932444
Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.

Powdered Metal Connecting rods- # 10108688

Cast Aluminum Pistons-#12514101

G.M. High Volume Pump Oil Pump- part # 12555284

Hydralic Flat tappet Camshaft- #14088839
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194 Exhaust Duration @.050"- 202
Lobe Seperation-112
This cam Has a mechanical Fuel Pump Lobe.
This is a low end Torque oriented camshaft.

Cylinder Heads- part # 14034808, casting #33417369, 1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve, 76cc Combustion Chamber, 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's

This engine remains our most popular largest selling crate engine of all times.
This is a great entry level replacement engine for older cars and trucks, and a great basic street rod engine. All of the parts in this engine are Brand New.
350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.5:1 compression ratio.
250 HP @4300 rpm
350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm
( These Numbers obtained with a Quadrajet Carb,1 5/8" headers , and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101)

Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
Intake: Not Included

This engine can also be used in 1986 model pick-ups. The flexplate (flywheel) must also be changed. Use flexplate #471598.

SDPC Part Number: 10067353 Manufacturer: GM Goodwrench Replacement Engines New/Reman. : New Core Value : 100.00 Transmission : A/S Cubic inches : 350 Liters : 5.7L

This engine includes Painted Valve Covers, oil pan and Timing Cover. This engine is drilled for both L.H. and R.H. dipsticks. Plugs Are included to plug the side not used.Two timing pointers are also included, a pointer for a 6" balancer and a pointer for an 8' balancer.Balancer with 2:00 timing mark must be used with this engine in order for mark to line up with the pointer.
For most stock applications with HEI ignition, Base ignition timing should be set to 10 before top dead center (with vacuum advance disconected) Total ignition timing should be around 36 @ 3000 rpm.

Spark plugs that should be used are AC Delco R45TS gapped at .045"

Oil filters used with this engine include PF25 , PF35 , PF1218 , or PF35L. The first oil filter is a 1/2 Quart type, the last three are the 1 quart type.
Generally 10W30 or 10W40 oil is used in this engine.

Does Not Include Balancer , flywheel , intake , Exhaust , Ignition , or fuel parts.
See Links Below for addl' install parts.

head gaskets used .026" to .028" x 4.100"

This cam is used in the "Universal 350" GM crate engine, and was originally used in 1980's GM truck engines.

- 8.3435 cc flat top cast pistons
__________________

DBez93

Wow, thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to research & copy/paste all that... I guess I won't worry too much about grenading it since it's not the original block (but a fraud dress up) but the numbers don't look that bad in a net hp setting

Arkyvette

I didn't hear any noises when you had it over at the house. If anything, your valves might need an adjustment. Where is the oil coming from? Rear main, timing cover, oil pan, sending unit, intake. All possible leaks. I would put a call to the dealer who told you that it was matching. A 78 probably isn't worth any more with matching numbers though unless its a pace car or low mileage original car that's been babied. In fact, it might be worth more with a newer gm crate in this market.

DBez93

I can tell some of it is coming from both valve cover gaskets, outside of the valve covers that I'm doing this weekend I need to scrub the engine down really well to see where exactly it's coming from

DBez93

Do you guys also have a random Y pipe on your exhaust with a capped flange on your exhaust?

Arkyvette

Where is it? I have two Y junctions, one where the two sides come together and one where they go back apart at the back. Unless you have aftermarket exhaust with cutouts for drag racing.

DBez93

I have those Y junctions, but under the passenger side right around the door there's a extra bit of tubing that comes off at about a 45 degree angle with a flange and a cap, the extra tubing also doesn't have the same amount of surface corrosion and the bolts came off without any fight, so they're absolutely not 35 years old... so it's a crate motor with a bypass on the exhaust... Strange stuff, next I'll learn the cylinder heads are lt1 heads and it has a cam

Arkyvette

Well.....whats it sound like uncorked?

L88Plus

Because of the Hecho en Mexico.

We've got guys dropping massive Jag engines in 'vettes with pages upon pages of threads, you decide to rag my *** about making a single related comment?

And what is it about those Chevy Hecho en Mexico blocks you don't like? Post something helpful to the thread or F.O.

DBez93

Very loud, kinda tinny... But not that bad... I want to get some dynomax ultraflow mufflers and some good shorty headers after I get all the leaks plugged up... I replaced the fan clutch and I still have a belt squealing at Highway speeds or some enthusiastic acceleration as it hits higher rpms... I'm replacing the valve seals and valve cover gaskets, and gonna try to do the belts this weekend... The squealing noise seems to be coming from the alternator or power steering pump

DBez93

And as for the build quality of the Mexico motors, I've read good, I've read bad, they're kinda hit and miss, but they're dirt cheap and LsX motors are manufactured in Mexico, it's a management level quality control matter, not a matter of the craftsmanship

jb78L-82

Not so fast. 78 L-82's numbers matching with moderate mileage on the OEM L-82 engine values are worth more than a base car L-48 with automatic. An OEM L-82 in a decent car with a now installed crate engine is definitely worth less, double down if it is a 4 speed car.

MrJlr

My $.02 is you don't have the original engine and probably never will. Build the engine you have or go crate.

Value? Well I guess it changes compared to numbers matching but it's a non issue at this point.

Kinda sucks the guy that sold it to you lied about it.

In the hands of a competent builder, the MIM engines can be as good as any.