mmesa005

Dan at Vettworks told me that his bracket combo covers those issues plus clears the Steeroids installation that I have. There are so many brackets out there that look like they do the job but don't provide details such as clearing a rack and pinion installation.

I am stalled on putting the rear suspension on until the rear shocks get delivered. They are supposedly on back order until April

Thanks for responding!

DEEPSEA70

Frame looks awesome.

I put my fuses in the jack compartment to make it easer to reach if needed. Plus, with the dry sump tank; there was no room anywhere up front.

mmesa005

DEEPSEA70,

That looks great and exactly what I want to do! How did you run the wires from the dash / engine compartment back to the circuit panel?

DEEPSEA70

Well, this certainly isn't finished and I am going to have to make it work; but I don't think it will be an issue. When I had the original harness from the 2010 GS redone and the computer reprogrammed; I had them add 5 feet to the fuse box with this in mind. I am going to run the wiring under the gap in the sill plate. You can see where I drilled into the back metal panel to get where it is now. Fuel pump wiring runs along the driver's side.

mmesa005

I was thinking similar as all the wires to and from the back of the car were run next to the sill plate. The antenna was run directly under the sill plate. Took me a while to find the photos but here they are.

mmesa005

I am considering keeping my stock dashboard and using Auto Meter Phantom II gauges.

Doing some initial research I read that I would need to purchase the programmable fuel gauge due to the requirements for the fuel tank sender if using the fuel pump assembly from a 99 - 02 Camaro. I expect this will be quite expensive ($1k+) by the time I purchase all the gauges and install kit.

I have read that others just replaced the Speedo / Tach with electric units and kept the stock gauges. Can someone tell me what I would need so far as senders and how I would handle the fuel tank sender issue? I suspect some have just gone with external fuel pumps and kept the stock float which works with the stock fuel level gauge but I have read in several places that the external fuel pump is more prone to early failure due to the potential for scavenging and working harder than an in tank fuel pump?


I have attached the notes I made from information I read on the Auto Meter web site.


1. Air/Fuel Ratio – Oxygen Sensor Gauge Installation for 5.7 LS1 engine(s)
a. Purple wire with a white stripe for the left bank primary sensor or at pin # 69 of the PCM. OR you may use the solid purple for the right bank primary sensor or at pin # 66 of the PCM

2. Fuel Level Sender Resistance Range
a. 40 ohms @ Empty to 250 ohms @ Full. Must use Full Sweep Programmable fuel level gauge. Or if you use a short sweep standard fuel level gauge, it will then have to be sent in to Service at Auto Meter for special calibration. Use our Ask a Question icon to ask about the procedure and cost.
b. Phantom II 7510 Programmable fuel level gauge

3. Oil Pressure Gauge Thread Size for 5.7L engine(s)
a. M16 x 1.5 Although you may drill & tap into adapter above oil filter

4. Tachometer Signal Wire Installation for 5.7 LS1 engine(s)
a. PCM, Red connector, Pin 10, White wire. Set up as 4 cyl, 2 pulse.

5. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Signal Wire for 5.7 engine(s)
a. Purple wire with a white stripe or at pin 21 of the red PCM Connector

6. Water Temp Location and/or Thread Size for LS-1 engine(s)
a. Remove the threaded in plug in passenger side cylinder head located past the last exhaust port. Use Auto Meter #2277 adapter. If using a short sweep electric gauge (with a single wire sender), you will need a model #2259 sender as well to fit the adapter. If using a full sweep electric gauge (with a 2-wire sender), then that will fit the adapter. Sorry, we do not offer a mechanical adapter for this application. Thread size of the hole is 12mm X 1.5


• Auto Meter 5284 GM LS Engine Gauge Adapter Kit

mmesa005

Going slow but making progress. The engine is married to the transmission and the brake plumbing is in. I will bolt up the torque converter tomorrow and I have some fine tuning of the transmission bracket to do as well. Going to measure the driveshaft and get a price on cutting my original drive shaft down and rebalanced and as the same shop does exhaust systems I will get a quote on that as well.

The Vetteworks engine mount plates worked as advertised and the oil pan clears the rack and pinion.

The rear shocks are still on backorder until May so the rear of the frame will sit on wood until then :0

donnie1956

I used 3/4 set back mounts for my swap. http://www.brphotrods.com/

mmesa005

Are you using the stock crossmember and if so what are your plans for running the exhaust pipes?

Thanks!

mmesa005

Seeing now first hand just how snug the alternator fit is and considering future maintenance I am thinking about purchasing a bracket that moves the alternator topside similar to the stock small block location. I have read several threads about different vendors but would appreciate any current recommendations and part numbers. Also, when going with an aftermarket bracket how is the accessory belt handled? As I am going with with VintageAir will the combination of the bracket and aftermarket A/C pose a problem with accessory belts?

Thanks!

DBez93

subscribed...

donnie1956

Look at the Holley LS accessory brackets. Moves alt up top but still close to upper A arm.

donnie1956

The sanden compressor mount. If I did it over I would have the compressor hose fittings come out the rear of compressor instead of side. Cleaner routing of hoses. Notice how close the water pump fittings are to the upper A arm.

mmesa005

Donnie1956,

Any specific part number for the brackets and the belt you used please?

The photos and information are greatly appreciated!

donnie1956

http://www.holley.com/types/LS%20Swa...y%20Drives.asp
Depends on your base engine you are using as to what parts you need. I installed a LQ9 truck engine. These brackets are top of the line and fit and finish are very nice. I also had to modify a PS pulley to work with my application. Very tight around the upper A arms.

mmesa005

I think I figured it out? I have an LS1 from a 2001 Camaro so I would need 20-136LS base kit and 21-2 Middle Belt installation kit as my engine came out of an F-Body.

mmesa005

Photos of the alternator bracket interference. Sent an e-mail to Dan at Vettworks.

donnie1956

The correct kit will determine the outward spacing for belt alignment and idler pulley positions.

mmesa005

I am getting ready to order a yoke for my transmission (4L60E) and associated U-Joints. I checked several web sites (Bowtie, Nook and Tranny, Monster) I did further searching for information and found Denny's http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p100...smissions.html

I want to confirm this is the correct yoke/u-joints for my engine / transmission combo (LS1/4L60E) and ask if anyone has had a custom drive shaft built for their swap and if so what length you wound up using?

BTW - my rear shocks are due to ship @ mid-may which will finally allow me to get the chassis completed. I have a radiator from DeWitts on order, a gas tank with internal fuel pump from Vettworks, A/C heating from VintageAir, and Auto Meter gauges from Jeg's. Fingers crossed and I could be putting the body back in in another month?

Just need to figure out seats and belts and everything less paint will be ordered!

Thanks!

mmesa005

A family medical situation caused me to put the project on hold for a while. I contemplated selling it but I am back at it for now. I bolted up the rear suspension and noticed the rear anti-sway bar does not sit level? Will that compress when I put the body back on or am I doing something wrong?

I received the fuel tank last week so I will install it and fabricate the fuel lines. After that I think I will be ready to put the body back on

I pretty much have everything less the seats to get the car back together and running. Just have to keep at it!