TedH

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-406-COMPLETE-SHORT-BLOCK-KIT-FORGED-PISTONS-FLAT-TOP-/331049248320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1412a640&vxp=mtr
What could I expect with my top end on this assembly? My Milodon oil pan is supposed to fit the SHIP 2-piece RMS block.

I know I will leave HP/TQ on the table but sounds like a GREAT base for a 406ci engine... essentially adding 53 ci over what I have with my .020" over, 34-year old block. I like that the SHP block is NEW and has 2-piece RMS.

Would I have to use different diameter roller lifters to fit the SHP lifter bores? I like the fact it has the stock dimensions on deck height (not a tall deck block).

MotorHead

Wow sounds too good to be true, "The ultimate I-beam rod" with ARP 8740 bolts, the bottom of the barrel bolts from ARP. A "new" block with 0" deck, why would you make it a 0 deck if it was a brand new block ? This guy really knows how to push the correct buttons, do a little more investigating first I only had to read a paragraph to see the

63mako

Should be a stock lifter bore. It looks to be externally balanced, Says nothing about torque plate honed. Says you should final wash it yourself. Says nothing about the crank other than the manufacturer. I would double measure everything as you should on assembly. I would want it internally balanced and torque plate honed. Pauldana bought a rotating assembly from them and talked extensively on the phone when ordering. Had to send almost everything back for different stuff (their error) and I believe he ended up balancing it himself after shipping. 5 CC Flat tops in a 406 with 64CC heads 0 decked is over 11.5 to 1. You do get what you pay for. I would likely have a trusted local shop do it for a few hundred more myself.

cv67

I wouldnt.

TedH

ARP rates the "High Perf" 8740's at 200,000psi. I see 2000's, and L19's mentioned on high HP/RPM motors. I'm not planning to exceed 5500rpm. I see the 2000's are 220,000psi. Read a write-up of an engine that ran for six (6) bracket race seasons using 8740's... This will be a street performance engine. I'm thinking 8740's are the most I will need... EVER. I see the 2000's are offered for double the 8740 price on Summit.

Perhaps I should lower my sites to a (DART SHP based) 377-383 short block kitr.

SCAT nodular cast crank sounds like the $200 crank available from Summit. They will swap parts for a fee (ex. Scat forged crank).

6" SCAT pro comp extreme duty forged i-beam rods

King Rod & Main bearings.

So, a forged crank is probably another $300-400.
2000 rod bolts another $100.


I've sent my Q's about torque plates, assembly balancing, ring fitting, etc. to SW. Will advise.

billla

I have never been impressed with Skip White stuff - lots of hype, but when you dig into the details it's always mismatched stuff.

TGTBT generally is.

Shark Racer

I have been running under the assumption that a 1 piece RMS is superior to a 2 piece RMS, with obvious exception to ease of replacement and having to change out the flywheel/flexplate assembly. Am I wrong?

63mako

The one piece factory style setups are external/internal balanced. They are available internally balanced but it needs to be ordered that way with a neutral balance flexplate or flywheel with the right bolt pattern to fit the one piece rear seal. If you have to have the weighted flywheel it is an external balance and in my opinion much less suited to a performance application. Anything that will ever see over 5500 rpm should be internally balanced.

63mako

If you have seen Pauldana's write up on his 427 build it is done right, has taken about 9 months and cost a ton of money. Know why he is building it? He snapped his 3.75 stroke Scat 9000 cast crank in half and trashed the entire build. An extra $400 would have put a 4340 forged crank in that 383 engine and he would still be driving it with a smile on his face and had $15,000 in his pocket that he no longer has. Just something to consider. Do it once and do it right. Spending an extra $1000 now can save you a lot more long term.

TedH

I agree. $300-400 more for a forged crank seems like a deal. Another $100 for the top shelf rod bolts. Still seems like a good deal given it is a non-blem DART SHP, big bore block. DART sells the block direct for about $1,500. Even spending another $2,500 to finish a bottom-end sounds like an incredible deal.

I could just buy an assembled ZZ4 short block (keep coming back to that)...

The reason I am considering buying a kit is I want to know I'm getting all US components. Perhaps I need to make a list and get individual prices to build a DART SHP short block ready for my top-end pieces.

The assembled GMPP 383 short block for $3,800 (free shipping) from Jeg's with pan, plate, damper, timing cover, oil pump/pickup doesn't look like such a bad deal compared to that unassembled SW kit.

63mako

Don't know the price or manufacturers but might look at something like this.
http://www.dartheads.com/products/sm...ck-forged.html
These guys got an internally balanced, fully forged, 400 with Dart SHP block marked "New" (4th one down) for $3595 assembled or $3395 unassembled.
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html

gkull

I've bought a bunch of rotating kits from these people.

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rota...400forged.html

63mako

I have used them also.

CNCMotorsports has some good Callies, Mahle kits as well. I know a lot of guys that do truck pulling with BBC's pushing 1200+ HP that use them exclusively.

lionelhutz

A mix of 1-piece and 2-piece rear seal parts and pictures of their machines at trade shows and from the manufacturer. Why no pictures of the machines in their own shop?

What's with that flex plate and balancer? With the big write-up about how great the flex plate is, why is it not SFI certified? There is no info on that generic balancer.

Why no actual part numbers for any of the parts so you know exactly what you are getting?

71scgc

I'm with 63mako, literally.
He advised me on parts selection for my engine build.
The list, and other info can be found by searching "406 build" in this section.
Look for the thread started by him.
Life and too much traveling have temporarily put the brakes on the build. Need to do some real minor work (fuel line) before getting it to the machine shop for run-in/ dyno.
Purchase of a project Porsche 911sc hasn't helped either. Hopefully by early summer we'll be ready for the R&R

Carter

Phil Zell

Skip White ! I think not for me.

MotorHead

I think you got my post wrong, I wasn't saying ARP 8740 bolts were not good for you. It was the line "The ultimate I-beam rod" with ARP 8740 bolts that caught my eye, the are no where near the ultimate rods, and if he is saying that what other BS is in there

TedH

Perhaps a good concept but lacking in pkg details, parts lists and too many cut corners. It caught my attention because it reminded me of the PAW catalogs that used to sport the engine kits.

It will probably be the assembled $3,800, ZZ383 short block. Forged crank, PM rods, with hyper pistons. Has the oil pan/pump/pickup, flex plate, damper and plastic timing cover. I would just add my steel timing cover (to clear my short water pump), gasket kit, new timing set, my roller kit and all top-end pieces, fuel pump, etc.

Shark Racer

Thanks.

How are they vs the 2piece RMS as far as sealing and longevity is concerned?

63mako

http://www.ultrastreet.net/shortbloc...shortblock.php