BEVO76

I argue about the mechanic or engine builder but that is not important, nonetheless they are one of the best but that's my opinion.

I am positive about the motor it's an 89 GM Pontiac block 355 SBC. There is nothing wrong with the pan, and I know what I am doing.

There are very mixed opinions obviously on the topic. But I want a solution not an opinion. So if someone can tell me why it's better to do one over the other I'm all ears.

As it would seem all three work!

BEVO76

Also I don't think it's the seals because the rear seal was fine before I took it apart.

My guess would be the gasket slipped when I bolted up the rear. Hard to see with the transition shroud in the way.

resdoggie

BEVO76

Thanks everyone for all the feedback much appreciated

Frank O'Hara

I had a similar problem with the front of the pan leaking. I found that Felpro makes a one piece gasket with a thick front. This made a huge difference for me

Schaggy

I've run into this and found that a meticulous clean, the fel-pro one-piece blue gasket and some the Right Stuff in the corners is the recipe that works for me.

My $.02

Good Luck!

widowmaker221

I am going to be installing one of these this weekend since I just installed a Borgeson steering box and have easy access to the pan. When I was young I would slather silicum all over the place but have found over the years that less to none silicum and attention to detail is better! That's my 2 cents!

Bee Jay

Summit sells a thicker .170" one piece gasket. I'm going to try it this weekend, with a thin bead of RTV on both sides.
Bee Jay

7T1vette

There is only ONE type of silicone sealant that is made to work with petroleum products (fuel, oil, grease). That is RTV Black sealant. No other brand or type of silicone product is meant for petroleum, nor will it prevent eventual leakage.

The best sealant for gaskets/petroleum is Permatex #2 gasket sealer. It is easy to use, non-hardening, and WORKS!!!

BEVO76

Given much debate I have done some research this afternoon and called 4 of the top engine builders for dirt race cars as I used to run one.

Oddly enough they all had the same procedure for installation of an oil pan. The builders all make engines for WISOTA, World of Outlaws, Lucas Oil Series, USMTS as well as local cars.

They use black RTV only.....The Right Stuff is the best.

Draw a bead on the pan do a circle around the bolt holes that is roughly 2-3mm thick or the thickness of a number two pencil.

Place the "Blue FELPRO" gasket on the pan, ensure no RTV pushed out into the pan.

Draw another bead on the gasket doing the same method as listed above.

Seal the pan to the engine block starting with the middle bolts first and tourqe to spec.

Let the oil pan once complete sit for 12-24-36 hours or as recommended on the RTV that you used. Then add oil and fire the engine.

Hard to argue with engine builders that produce $20,000 and up engines.

Guess that means that all thoese guys who run on Saturday night with thier $40,000 engines in thier cars need to go out and find them a "NEW MECHANIC"...huh.

BEVO76

Thanks guys on all the feedback.....I do appreceate the advice and what works for you. Although a number of different opinions its alwasy good to know how others do it in case you need more options.

I am about 99% positive that my pan was bad and causing all of the issues but we will see this evening when I start wrenchin.

BEVO76

UPDATE:

We'll your never going to believe what the issues was. Got the pan off tonight to take a look. I have 2 studs in the rear to hold the pan on. The right rear stud had the metal washer from inside the old gasket stuck on the stud. When I put the new gasket on it too had another metal washer in the gasket. So I had two of those on the same side. It left a 1/8 in gap causing my leak......we'll I will be damned if I have ever seen such a thing.

TimAT

At least now you now EXACTLY what the root cause of the problem was. I've never used a one piece gasket on the pan. I KNOW that the rear rubber end for the old style has a rib that kind of seems to snap into the groove in the rear cap. Put both the side gaskets on, then the ends with a little RTV on the corners and done.
Does the one piece gasket have little ribs on the front and rear of the back main cap loop?

Ironcross

None VOTE, and when using silicone, its a gasket by themselves...then go and add the full surround gaskets means you have two ...SILICONE IN THE CORNERS is good or OK...but not two gaskets....

by the way Felpro does have a gasket to fit opposite side dip stick blocks and comes in the standard pan gasket you glue to the pan rails...best achieved with 3-M trim cement

but whatever,

Gale Banks 80'

It sounds as though You have it figured out. Most people know that there are Two Oil Pan Gasket for the SBC but there are really at least four. The Pan rails are the same but its the ends that are different. In about the 1969 to 72 era is when GM made the change but the aftermarket did not change along with them. So its kind'a up to who made the Pan and or Timing cover as to what gasket to use. I had a 1971 010 Block with a Moroso Pan and I had to use a Medium Thick gasket. In modern times I have never been able to find this gasket. Then there is the Pontiac Rocket Block gasket, which is kind of a combination of all the above. The last time I checked it is still not available in a 1 piece.