Vacuum to Electric - My Version
02-22-2014, 10:01 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Vacuum to Electric - My Version
I thought long & hard “should I create a new post” or add to the “GREAT” mile long “NEW WAY” post 
I decide on NEW because the “NEW WAY” post is a super place for ideas/discussion and mine is just a record of what I did.
So here is my “HOW-TO Vacuum to Electric” ==>> Click Here
As stated on my web site I take no credit for this project – I just used bit-and-pieces of all the research others have done. Thanks to them
Hope this will help someone on-the-fence about doing this project
George
I decide on NEW because the “NEW WAY” post is a super place for ideas/discussion and mine is just a record of what I did.
So here is my “HOW-TO Vacuum to Electric” ==>> Click Here
As stated on my web site I take no credit for this project – I just used bit-and-pieces of all the research others have done. Thanks to them
Hope this will help someone on-the-fence about doing this project
George
02-22-2014, 11:55 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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Hey George-
Nice write up- great job on the pics.
I like your disclaimer....
Richard
Nice write up- great job on the pics.
I like your disclaimer....
Richard
02-23-2014, 03:31 AM
#4
Race Director
This is awesome - and honestly has me a little tempted! My headlights work fine, but I'd love to get rid of some of the vacuum hoses.
Quick Q -
Did you mean 3/8-24 female heim joints LH on the bolded line?
Quick Q -
2 - 3/8-24 Female Hemi Joints RH
$6.30
2 - 3/8-34 Male Hemi Joints LH
$6.30
$6.30
2 - 3/8-34 Male Hemi Joints LH
$6.30
02-23-2014, 06:18 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Nicely done, thank you.
02-23-2014, 09:25 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
George, great write-up & pics. Makes me understand the conversion even more. Now all I need is the time to do it....
At least I can purchase all of the remaining parts needed to complete the job.
Tom
At least I can purchase all of the remaining parts needed to complete the job. Tom
02-23-2014, 09:46 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Great write up. Nice job,thanks for posting.
02-25-2014, 12:01 PM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
03-06-2014, 06:25 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Finally got a friend to stop by and put hood on. Have been keeping my fingers crossed that there would be clearance. no problem with mounting motors inboard ended up with between 1/4 & 5/16. Now job is done ** Web page also updated **
George
no problem with mounting motors inboard ended up with between 1/4 & 5/16. Now job is done ** Web page also updated **George
03-06-2014, 08:35 PM
#13
Instructor
Member Since: Dec 2013
Location: Maui Hawaii
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Very helpful that you took all the different posts on the "NEW WAY" thread and gathered it all together for an easy step-by-step on your website no less AND with annotated photos. WAY COOL!!!
When you have some free moments, you might need to correct a couple typos:
PARTS LIST <one section>
2 - 3/8-24 Female Hemi Joints RH
$6.30
2 - 3/8-24 Male Hemi Joints LH
$6.30
*you probably meant Female
*Hemi should be Hiem and can probably do all the corrections on the webpages with the search/replace feature.
I'll be using your website for my conversion as soon as I get the rest of the parts in. Big time thanks.
When you have some free moments, you might need to correct a couple typos:
PARTS LIST <one section>
2 - 3/8-24 Female Hemi Joints RH
$6.30
2 - 3/8-24 Male Hemi Joints LH
$6.30
*you probably meant Female
*Hemi should be Hiem and can probably do all the corrections on the webpages with the search/replace feature.
I'll be using your website for my conversion as soon as I get the rest of the parts in. Big time thanks.
Last edited by 82CFI; 03-06-2014 at 08:39 PM.
03-07-2014, 12:33 AM
#14
Race Director
03-07-2014, 03:19 AM
#15
Instructor
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03-07-2014, 09:07 AM
#16
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Tough Audience
Good catches & Thanks
Fixed..
George
Good catches & Thanks
Fixed..
George
03-07-2014, 11:22 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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It's 6 3/8" center to center...but make sure the arm on the motor is 1Ľ" center to center when you drill it out- otherwise you'll have too much throw if you just drill out the center of the 'ball' on the arm-where as it's 1˝"
I have instructions on my website as well- http://stingrayv12.com/installation.html
I have instructions on my website as well- http://stingrayv12.com/installation.html
04-08-2014, 02:59 PM
#19
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Mar 2014
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Where did you find the correct connectors for the motor wiring? I'd love to not have to cut them off. I've looked on the "official" Ford Parts website and even chatted with them. No joy.
Rick
Rick
04-22-2014, 12:31 PM
#20
Heel & Toe
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OK, I've completed the install, but the headlights aren't opening all the way or closing all the way. With the armatures at 1 1/4" there doesn't seem to be enough throw, unless the springs are supposed to complete the travel and mine are just too old. My choices now seem to be to slot the armature and tighten the bolt down where ever it fits best for the distance I need to travel. I was thinking about that anyhow for adjustability reasons. Also, the rod that connects the headlight side heim joint on mine is larger in the center, so there's slop on the 3/8" bolt I'm using. I'm looking at sleeves to help soak that up. Anybody else ran into that one? I'm working on a 1969, so that might be the difference.
- (4/23/14) The larger diameter center of that hinge pin is actually a plastic sleeve. hehe It was stuck in place and so dirty it looked like the same material as the pin itself. I've actually had this whole assembly apart before when I replaced the rubber seals on the vacuum actuators and never noticed because they never moved. I had to hit them harder then I'd expect to free them up. Ehhhhh, old cars. That "issue" is resolved so I'm going to try using the original pin for that end and see if that improves things.
Rick
- (4/23/14) The larger diameter center of that hinge pin is actually a plastic sleeve. hehe It was stuck in place and so dirty it looked like the same material as the pin itself. I've actually had this whole assembly apart before when I replaced the rubber seals on the vacuum actuators and never noticed because they never moved. I had to hit them harder then I'd expect to free them up. Ehhhhh, old cars. That "issue" is resolved so I'm going to try using the original pin for that end and see if that improves things.
Rick
Last edited by sticky69; 04-23-2014 at 11:12 AM.
