Danish Shark

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Tom454

Summit.

There's also Jegs and dozens of others. I use Summit & Jegs mostly.

63mako

Fully forged, internally balanced bottom end, 489 CI with head gaskets, rings, bearings, .047 quench 9.93 to 1 compression. little to no clearancing required, will need balancing but will balance with no Mallory needed. Will easily run on pump fuel if you use the cam I linked earlier. Polish the chambers, it will reduce carbon buildup and future detonation issues. Under $2100

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...5716/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ue...make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cg...make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...4030/overview/

You could call this guy and check on either milling the domes 6CC or changing pistons. Looks like a real good price forged, already balanced with damper. Tell him you have a manual flywheel. I Haven't Used Him!!! You would need a standard thickness .039 gasket (cheaper)with this as the piston compression height is .010 taller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBC-CHEVY-48...-/330963972554

ajrothm

I'm with Mako, if you have to buy a crank, rods and pistons, no reason to NOT to a 4.25" crank. Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 rods will not need clearancing. You will want to balance the whole assembly though once you get the pistons.

**Also, plan on buying a moroso 20403 oil pan. The 4.25" crank will definitely have windage issues with the stock vette oil pan... Hell even with the 20403 pan, I can still only run about 5.75 qts of oil... Any more then that and it loses a ton of HP and some oil pressure.

Even with stock 781/049 oval ports, this thing will make 500-550 hp with even a mild cam. Some good ported ovals and a hyd roller is 600+hp. Best off is the torque it makes. You can run a 3.08 gear and it still hauls azz...

Danish Shark

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L88Plus

Scat ProComp (Not the junk ProComp brand) rods are stroker clearanced, designed with material removed in the right spots for both cam and pan clearance - these are the rods listed in 63Mako's wish list. I'd consider one of their cranks as well, the one he listed is internal balance and should be exactly what you need. Might try Diamond or SRP pistons, they're both good quality and won't break the bank.
Stay away from the ProComp junk, you'll spend more in machine work than you can save.

Danish Shark

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c3_dk

It's looking good, it looks like Skip Withe is a ok dealer?

ajrothm

I'm not sure about the 20403 oil pan with a rack/pinion steering setup... I do know that it fits fine with the stock steering rack.

Danish Shark

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ajrothm

If you are running a 4.25" stroke, you'll want to run about 5.5 to 5.7 qts of oil at the most..(with filter).... Running 6 qts in that pan will cost you 40hp+....and you will lose a little oil pressure... I tested this on the dyno--its the real deal..

We did not use the windage tray with that pan due to clearance issues.

I run 5.6 qts on a fresh oil change and check my oil religiously..(like every weekend and top off as needed)... If you're gonna road race it or do top end runs, I recommend adding an accusump oil accumulator for added safety.

Danish Shark

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63mako

With a 5500 RPM redline buying off the shelf that cam will be fine. Those heads would really like a little more duration on the exhaust side, about a 10 degree split. They flow way more than the GM oval port on the intake side and a little more on the exhaust. Everything I see with the bigger split sacrifices lift. Custom lobe cam is really the only way to improve on that cam and they are expensive. Will run on 89 octane if you have good quench. Make sure your springs are speced for that cam. Big Blocks are real sensitive to proper spring pressures because of the heavy valvetrain.

Danish Shark

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63mako

Find out recommended spring pressure for the cam and compare to yours.

bluedawg

I hate camshafts that are designed to make a car sound lopey, I love a cam shafts fit to its purpose of making power with the side effect of a lopey, no posing. When I was a kid going up in Missouri every one had hotrods half of them had camshafts to big and it's severely disappointing for a car to sound like it should run good but don't. I feel that quite the oposite is true also, it sucks to cam a engine leaving power on the table trying to stay away from sounds. My point is don't cam it for sound one way or another, cam it to work best with the engine as a combo and let the sound fall were it may. Good luck, a healthy big block is going to keep a smile on your face from ear to ear so long that you'll have facial cramps when your not driving.

Danish Shark

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bluedawg

500 horse is completely doable, some of the new Cadilac over here get it, power is a drug in my book and I can't have to much. A 489" with decent heads can hit 500 horse with its hands tied. When I built my 400" my goal was to drive it all summer, not be beat by every car on the road and to turn mid 12's with greater ambitions to high elevens, I've hit the mid twelves and am working toward the high eleven mark. I'm not saying you need to squeeze every once of power out of, just cam it to work efficiently with in your combination and not worry about the idle. A roller cam will give you better idle quality, due to your imposed red line it might not be a bad idea to check out a custom cam to make good power in your desired range by making use of your heads.

63mako

DCR is about 7.9 to 1. Will have a little lope, good street manners and vacuum. Should pull hard off idle to 5000-5500. Will have higher peak torque number than peak HP. 500 HP is no problem.

Danish Shark

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