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Old 02-06-2014, 01:41 AM   #1
speedbird1229
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Default Improving rear end for the 383 Stroker

Hi all,

I already have an active topic about some engine questions open but I thought I'd open a new thread since I want to know about rear end improvements also.

I'm running a totally stock differential on my C3 behind the 383 stroker and I drove most of last Summer nicely with it until I was able to break the driver's side u-joint which goes between the half shaft and side yoke. I replaced the u-joint with a heavy duty one and I drove a couple of months until something bad happened back there again. This time the u-joint was alive but it had come out of the side yoke clamps somehow. I guess the clamps got damaged or bent when the u-joint broke the first time and I shouldn't have used the same clamps anymore to install the new joint.

I do have some side yoke play on both sides of the diff and I began hearing some slight whine noise from the rear end when letting off the gas at higher speeds. Therefore I am thinking it is time to remove it from the car and fix it or perhaps just get a new diff instead.

I was actually thinking of buying a whole new diff set from Duntov Motors which costs 1499 USD per diff. I thought perhaps replacing the regular ring and pinion in it for the REM coated ones. You can see the parts here: http://www.duntovmotors.com/differentials-63-79.php

Should this diff work behind the Stroker engine if I use it mostly on the street? Is there any point getting one or should I have my old diff rebuilt by the local guys here in Estonia?

I guess I should certainly get the 63-79 Stub Axles they are selling since they should be stronger, also HD Stub Axle Caps and their stronger u-joints.


Thanks!!!
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Black 1979 C3 4-Speed 500ish HP
383 Stroker, Scat 9000 Pro Comp crank, CP Carrillo forged pistons, AFR 195cc Street heads, Comp Cams XE274H Xtreme Energy Cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Moroso low-profile air filter, Hooker full ceramic headers, dual 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe
George's Car Blog - My 383 build stories! My high quality car photos!
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:18 AM   #2
gkull
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbird1229 View Post
Hi all,

I already have an active topic about some engine questions open but I thought I'd open a new thread since I want to know about rear end improvements also.

I'm running a totally stock differential on my C3 behind the 383 stroker and I drove most of last Summer nicely with it until I was able to break the driver's side u-joint which goes between the half shaft and side yoke. I replaced the u-joint with a heavy duty one and I drove a couple of months until something bad happened back there again. This time the u-joint was alive but it had come out of the side yoke clamps somehow. I guess the clamps got damaged or bent when the u-joint broke the first time and I shouldn't have used the same clamps anymore to install the new joint.

I do have some side yoke play on both sides of the diff and I began hearing some slight whine noise from the rear end when letting off the gas at higher speeds. Therefore I am thinking it is time to remove it from the car and fix it or perhaps just get a new diff instead.

I was actually thinking of buying a whole new diff set from Duntov Motors which costs 1499 USD per diff. I thought perhaps replacing the regular ring and pinion in it for the REM coated ones. You can see the parts here: http://www.duntovmotors.com/differentials-63-79.php

Should this diff work behind the Stroker engine if I use it mostly on the street? Is there any point getting one or should I have my old diff rebuilt by the local guys here in Estonia?

I guess I should certainly get the 63-79 Stub Axles they are selling since they should be stronger, also HD Stub Axle Caps and their stronger u-joints.


Thanks!!!
The ring and pinion is not what fails. If you have yoke in and out play. It can only be two things. Stock yokes ride against a central pin inside the posi track unit. That metal on metal friction wares away the end of the yokes.

That fix is to buy the custum hardened yokes about $600 for both. The other internal problem is if somebody installed a Eaton type posi unit in the past and the metal on metal cone device wares away allowing slop in the yokes with ina nd out travel.

My hot rodded 383 exceeds 20 mpg on trips before I even got an OD tranny. It was also vey happy shifting at 7500 rpm. The cam is the heart beat of the motor
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:18 AM
 
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