SciVette

Hi all-

I've got my ride wheels off up on stands while doing some brake work and taking care of other items. I had been getting a slight clunk when going from reverse to first, checked the snubber bushing and found the top one in this shape:


I got the upper one (and bolt, etc.) out, but the lower one seems firmly wedged in between the frame member and the differential tongue.


I found online where others say to use a crowbar to pry between the two, but so far, no luck. I'm concerned that my brake line runs right where the pry force rests (you can see somebody previously already smashed it to some degree).


Any hints/tips to tilt the differential tongue down a bit? Didn't know if having it wheels off on stands mattered, or if a jack in the right place might help...
(And yes- I obviously have a pinion seal leak... But that's for another day...)

gcusmano74

I would try to pry directly on the bolt head (as the fulcrum), being carefull not to smash the brake line.

Mooser

Try a small(ish) bend end pry bar, should be able to avoid the brake line
If you don't have/can't get one, notch out a piece of hardwood to protect the line and pry on that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...bar-31383.html
M

oldschoolvette

I had a giant fight with the same thing several months ago.

If you find my post there are some good pieces of data in it.

Here is the secret.

The only way that POS will come out is to pry the differential snout down far enough to get it out. I was scared of damaging the brake line as well.

I used a long pry bar and a small block of wood as a fulcrum

Once we got it open (this is a two person job) I placed a piece of wood in the opening to hold it while I installed the new lower bushing.

be careful that MF will bite you

Be respectful of the job there is a ton of stored energy when the thing is pried open.

Don't be afraid just get your mind right and do it.

I hope this helps.

sstopczy

I used a jack and put a little pressure under the leaf spring and it was enough to tip the entire differential down in the front to make the change.

CaseyJones

Getting the bolt back in from the top is tough, too. You have to turn the driveshaft just right to get the u-joint in the correct position to give you enough room. I also replaced mine recently. I hope the new one lasts a very long time.

diehrd

Also use some of this or you will end up with a bad bushing soon enough

http://www.target.com/p/as-seen-on-t...FZRr7AodeFgAwQ

SciVette

Thanks for the tips. I'll tackle it again this coming weekend. How about the rubber vs poly debate? I saw previous posts saying the poly bushing were often incorrectly sized/problematic. But, as you can see, I have a noticeable pinion seal leak (and likely won't get to that until I save the $$ to pull the differential and/or take it to tracdogg2 for a complete look-over). Am I better off sticking with rubber knowing that I might have to replace again?

SciVette

Just to button-up this thread. I have to say that this repair was among the most daunting I've done. "Finished" it up along with my recent brake work over spring break. On the 1980 there is not a removable carrier tongue- it's all one piece with the aluminum batwing/differential. It's almost like the engineers at GM purposely designed it to be a torturous affair. 1/2" of space anywhere in the mix would have made the job infinitely easier...

I finally gave up on removing and replacing the lower snubber cushion/bushing. I tried every method of jacking, wheels up, wheels down, pry bar, etc. There's no good place to pry, especially without a lift, and there's a brake line that runs right where you need to fulcrum the pry bar (someone previously has already crushed mine to a more flattened state). Even if I could pry the two tongues apart I felt I'd never be able to get the new cushion in as it is newer/fatter than the old.

To get the new upper bushing in took enormous patience. I finally disconnected the driveshaft at the transmission to give me a bit of play (would have done so at the diff. but the ujoint strap bolt there are bubba'd and roundeded off (They look like 1/4" spline bolts, but nothing would fit on them...). After hours of trial and error I finally got the upper bushing in and the bolt back through. A full replacement of the cushion and leaking pinion seal will have to wait until I pull the whole diff. or take it to Tracdogg2.

Sometimes working on these Vettes is a Zen experience. You have to go into a state of mental meditation to avoid cursing, crying, throwing objects, or just curling up into a ball in the corner of the garage...

Street Rat

Sometimes working on these Vettes is a Zen experience. You have to go into a state of mental meditation to avoid cursing, crying, throwing objects, or just curling up into a ball in the corner of the garage...