rear spring
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
rear spring
I put a new metal rear spring on my car and it sets up like a 4 wheel drive. I put longer bolts on to drop it back down but is there a way to get it to set down with when using the standard bolts. Some say it will set down within a month. I don't know.
#2
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Has the suspension settled since you installed the new spring? Drive it around the block a time or two, then take a look at it.
#5
Burning Brakes
You will have to drive a longer period of time then readjust the new bolts to lower the car after you get it back from paint. Then send it in for a rear alignment to get the Chamber right again. You can use simple tools like a 2 foot 90 degree Angle to adjust the rear Chamber because the tires may be riding on the outside or inside of the tire right now.
Before taking it to the alignment shop set the wheels at Zero Chamber or a 90 Degree angle than allow their equipment to adjust to factory specs.
The rear suspension will need a complete alignment to adjust Toe and Chamber Settings after you have replaced the spring and put in new stuff. I am going to guess you may be running a very high negative or positive Chamber and it is raising the car up to high since it is riding on the far reaches of the sides of the tread.
I have been a little research on this since I am getting ready to totally rebuild the rear suspension on my 1977 C3 next year
Below is a link with a picture showing what I am talking about
http://www.townfairtire.com/wheel-al...oe-alignments/
And this PDF will give you some instructions
http://www.ncrsmac.org/garage/AlignmentSchool.pdf
Before taking it to the alignment shop set the wheels at Zero Chamber or a 90 Degree angle than allow their equipment to adjust to factory specs.
The rear suspension will need a complete alignment to adjust Toe and Chamber Settings after you have replaced the spring and put in new stuff. I am going to guess you may be running a very high negative or positive Chamber and it is raising the car up to high since it is riding on the far reaches of the sides of the tread.
I have been a little research on this since I am getting ready to totally rebuild the rear suspension on my 1977 C3 next year
Below is a link with a picture showing what I am talking about
http://www.townfairtire.com/wheel-al...oe-alignments/
And this PDF will give you some instructions
http://www.ncrsmac.org/garage/AlignmentSchool.pdf
Last edited by MakoJoe; 12-18-2013 at 09:21 PM.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I will drive it a couple of 100 miles after paint before adjusting. I hope it will settle close to where it needs to be. It has dropped about 1 ince just roling it around in the shop this month. It was almost 6 inces above my tire when I first put it on. I want it about 1 1/2 ~2 inces. I can always put longer bolts in and bring it down, I just didn't know how long it would take to work it's way down.
#7
Melting Slicks
As gcusmano stated, the car only needs to move a few feet for the suspension to settle. Positive or negative camber will NOT put several inches of ride height in your suspension . Replacing the steel spring should have brought the car back to standard ride height, unless the spring rate is significantly different than stock. This can indeed be the case when you switch to a monospring - as many of us here can attest to; then indeed, longer bolts may be needed. If your spring is in fact an exact replacement for stock, was it installed correctly? Namely, did you wait to get the weight of the car on the spring before the final tightening sequence on the spring to differential bolts? If these were torqued while the car was on jackstands, you need to back them off and follow proper installation procedures, then verify your ride height. More info on the new spring rate would also be helpful for the guys to help you diagnose your problem.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
I tightened it in the air, no weight on it. This may be the problem. The car is an 81 and it came with the carbonfiber spring but it was damaged when I bought the car. My local corvette supply house said a standard steel spring one would work fine. I will try to rework bolts with weight on it.
What is standard height? mine may have been setting low to begin with.
What is standard height? mine may have been setting low to begin with.
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#10
Instructor
Spring bolt torque?
Can you tell me what the correct torque is for the spring to differential bolts should be for a '78 L82, 4 spd? Going to replace my spring before long. Thanks
As gcusmano stated, the car only needs to move a few feet for the suspension to settle. Positive or negative camber will NOT put several inches of ride height in your suspension . Replacing the steel spring should have brought the car back to standard ride height, unless the spring rate is significantly different than stock. This can indeed be the case when you switch to a monospring - as many of us here can attest to; then indeed, longer bolts may be needed. If your spring is in fact an exact replacement for stock, was it installed correctly? Namely, did you wait to get the weight of the car on the spring before the final tightening sequence on the spring to differential bolts? If these were torqued while the car was on jackstands, you need to back them off and follow proper installation procedures, then verify your ride height. More info on the new spring rate would also be helpful for the guys to help you diagnose your problem.
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Instructor