Where does this go?
11-26-2013, 08:40 PM
#21
Hello all! I have my AIM book an order along with a few others, but I won't get them till next week. Can someone tell me what this tube is on the front of my carburetor that goes to nowhere? It looks like it reaches over to that other line that has a bolt in it. What is that line for and why did someone cut one side and blot closed the other?
Dan G>
Last edited by Capkunu; 11-26-2013 at 08:46 PM.
11-27-2013, 09:15 AM
#22
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
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Royal Canadian Navy
I removed my hose from the carb end and plugged it. The other end is still attached to the canister. I'm guessing a previous owner has removed the canister for whatever reason and thats why the canister side of the hose is plugged, or not.
11-27-2013, 04:25 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
You all exactly right. I looked in the drivers side wheel well and the canister is not there so previous owner must have removed it for some reason. I plugged up the tube once but it really ran terrible. It wasn't till I left the tube unplugged from everything that it seemed to run somewhat normal.
I've never rebuilt and engine before but I'm starting to think that this might be a good project to learn on. It seems very simple compared to engines today.
I've never rebuilt and engine before but I'm starting to think that this might be a good project to learn on. It seems very simple compared to engines today.
11-27-2013, 07:08 PM
#24
Race Director
So do not be confused. The parts in your engine that will make it reliable and have a long life are the exact same parts as a current engine of today.
Where the difference lies in engines of toady...versus your engine is the types of ignition systems, fuel systems, emissions and the sensors that feed information to a computer or computers to keep it running the best possible. These have nothing to do with the engine block, crankshaft and all other parts that rotate to make the engine create the power/torque.
I know that you will more than likely succeed in re-building your engine. With time, patience, perseverance, dedication and attention to detail...this project can be accomplished. Just make sure that you measure everything and try to install the best possible parts that you can afford or want to install into it. Outside of the obvious machine work that may be required...I know you will have a blast. It seems like you are pretty "stoked" and ready to have some fun.
DUB
11-28-2013, 12:30 PM
#26
Team Owner
Many folks like to "take the smog cr@p" off of their engines in the belief that it will make the engine run better and have more power. In a few instances, that is correct; but most of the time, taking that stuff off provides no benefit at all. A.I.R. pumps use less than 1 horsepower and cause no other performance losses, if operating properly.
The PCV system and the vapor canister system provide no 'parasitic loss' problems for your engine and actually keep the engine compartment from getting greasey and the garage from smelling like raw gasoline. If those systems are intact, leave them alone. If they are in your car but not connected, reconnect them. Unless they are defective, they will do no harm.
If you have an emissions system that defeats the vacuum advance mechanism at idle and low speeds, that one IS detrimental to engine performance. Unless you need to have it operational for emissions testing reasons, it is better to 'bypass' that so that the vacuum advance system is active.
In general, the emissions system stuff is more confusing than it is harmful. Your best bet is to read-up on EXACTLY how the emissions equipment on your engine is supposed to work; then decide if there are any parts of that system that need to be removed or bypassed.
The PCV system and the vapor canister system provide no 'parasitic loss' problems for your engine and actually keep the engine compartment from getting greasey and the garage from smelling like raw gasoline. If those systems are intact, leave them alone. If they are in your car but not connected, reconnect them. Unless they are defective, they will do no harm.
If you have an emissions system that defeats the vacuum advance mechanism at idle and low speeds, that one IS detrimental to engine performance. Unless you need to have it operational for emissions testing reasons, it is better to 'bypass' that so that the vacuum advance system is active.
In general, the emissions system stuff is more confusing than it is harmful. Your best bet is to read-up on EXACTLY how the emissions equipment on your engine is supposed to work; then decide if there are any parts of that system that need to be removed or bypassed.
11-28-2013, 01:07 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '09
I would plug that hose and reset the timing. With it unplugged, you have a vacuum leak which will make it run bad. If previous owner tried to retime with it unplugged, you could get erratic idle when you plugged the leak. Do you have a timing light? If not, you could loosen distributor bolt and rotate to change timing enough to see if it runs better. You'll still need to use a light to set correctly, but this will let you know if you are heading in the right direction.
11-29-2013, 06:29 PM
#28
Race Director
Many folks like to "take the smog cr@p" off of their engines in the belief that it will make the engine run better and have more power. In a few instances, that is correct; but most of the time, taking that stuff off provides no benefit at all. A.I.R. pumps use less than 1 horsepower and cause no other performance losses, if operating properly.
The PCV system and the vapor canister system provide no 'parasitic loss' problems for your engine and actually keep the engine compartment from getting greasey and the garage from smelling like raw gasoline. If those systems are intact, leave them alone. If they are in your car but not connected, reconnect them. Unless they are defective, they will do no harm.
If you have an emissions system that defeats the vacuum advance mechanism at idle and low speeds, that one IS detrimental to engine performance. Unless you need to have it operational for emissions testing reasons, it is better to 'bypass' that so that the vacuum advance system is active.
In general, the emissions system stuff is more confusing than it is harmful. Your best bet is to read-up on EXACTLY how the emissions equipment on your engine is supposed to work; then decide if there are any parts of that system that need to be removed or bypassed.
The PCV system and the vapor canister system provide no 'parasitic loss' problems for your engine and actually keep the engine compartment from getting greasey and the garage from smelling like raw gasoline. If those systems are intact, leave them alone. If they are in your car but not connected, reconnect them. Unless they are defective, they will do no harm.
If you have an emissions system that defeats the vacuum advance mechanism at idle and low speeds, that one IS detrimental to engine performance. Unless you need to have it operational for emissions testing reasons, it is better to 'bypass' that so that the vacuum advance system is active.
In general, the emissions system stuff is more confusing than it is harmful. Your best bet is to read-up on EXACTLY how the emissions equipment on your engine is supposed to work; then decide if there are any parts of that system that need to be removed or bypassed.
I myself can not nor will not remove any emissions equipment from an engine. I am bound legally...it's against the law. What YOU choose to do with your own car...is entirely another issue.
I would plug that hose and reset the timing. With it unplugged, you have a vacuum leak which will make it run bad. If previous owner tried to retime with it unplugged, you could get erratic idle when you plugged the leak. Do you have a timing light? If not, you could loosen distributor bolt and rotate to change timing enough to see if it runs better. You'll still need to use a light to set correctly, but this will let you know if you are heading in the right direction.
I have, over the years encountered numerous Corvettes whose outer rings on the harmonic balancer had spun significantly...thus making a timing light useless...especially if a person is trying to adjust the timing to a specific number. I use a timing light just to obtain information... and I prefer to use a vacuum gauge and test drive the car to make sure it is performing correctly. But that is just me. Others out there will highly disagree...and that is OK...To each his/her own. But I have seen the results on a chassis dyno...even with other considerations being taken into account.
DUB
11-29-2013, 07:15 PM
#29
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
