oldschoolvette

Just got done with New Engine

then the Radiator split open Installed a new one

The after I fixed that I changed rear diff snubers and noticed the pinion oil seal is leaking

Cleaned it all up and drove the car and yes I need to change the seal

I don't have a lift...is this a candidate for driveway repair or do I bite the bullet and take it to a shop?

any experience on this one??

I read some threads and it looks like a tuff job with no lift

Una4dbl55

I just had mine done at a local shop. Owner has had several corvettes over the last twenty years so I figure he's gotta know something.
$175.00 bucks and did a nice job.

oldschoolvette

wow that seems like a really good price as compaired to rolling around under jack stands

That seems like a better way to go

Una4dbl55

Yeah.... thats what I thought

oldschoolvette

Has anyone done this job at this house with no lift?

Would you do it again?

greg75vette

I didn't repair the seal myself, but I have taken the diff out without a lift. It's very doable. A lot of stuff has to move and be taken out of the way, but nothing terrible. A friend to help you would be great, but a jack can help just as much. Be forewarned, these rear ends are a lot heavier than they look...

garygnu

it can be done with out a lift .the tricky part is getting the torque correct on the pinion bolt ,so you don't screw up ring and pinion specs .

joewill

a pinion oil seal can be removed with the pumpkin in place.. just remove the driveshaft. you have to do some tricks with the bolt torque for the the bearing and race by tightening the bolt to just exactly where it was and you should have a inch-pound torque wrench to confirm the load on the bearing. that inch pound wrench ain't cheap..

but essentially, you remove the drive shaft, remove pinion yoke, tap out the seal, tap in a new one with the correct permatex sealant.

no guarantee that a shop will do it right either.. your yoke might be rusty and it will immediately cause your new seal to leak so you might have to replace that or get a speedy sleeve..

the point is, your costs may escalate...

oldschoolvette

That would be my concern to find a shop that speaks Corvette, C3

81 vette vent

I just did this Saturday morning. I'm was an 81 so it is a little different but all in all it wasn't bad at all. If you remove the diff like it did, go ahead and replace the front diff mount rubber bushing. I think it was $10 but you shouldn't have to go back there again for another 20 years.
Check your yoke for any burrs that may have damaged your other seal. You can use 800~1000 grit sandpaper to clean it up. Mark your bolt and count your turns. If you put it back in the exact same spot you will be ok as long as you didn't have any gear problems before.

gcusmano74

Typically, an oil seal doesn't just fail all by itself. Normally, the runout of the bearing involved becomes more than the seal can tolerate, due to wear, and THEN the seal leaks.
So sometimes, a new seal can leak, because the bearing invoved is still worn. A new seal can be more pliable than the old one, and might tolerate the runout without issues.
It can be a crap shoot, so think twice.

speedreed8

i did mine a couple of years ago. still no leak. removed drive shaft, punched marked the pinion nut to the pinion shaft. removed nut with some long extensions and impact. pryed out seal, installed new seal, it doesnt go in all the way, leave about 1/8" clearance around housing. reinstall nut and torque to realign punch marks. yes i would do it again.
took about 30 mins.

dreamweaver1

I did mine but have problem now!
I just finished replacing 1/2 shaft seals and pinoion seal on mine with differential out. I marked and counted the number of turns to remove the pinion nut. Put it all back together tightening the nut to the number of turns to take it off (8 1/2) and put it all back into the car and now the differential whines and has gear lash noise on deceleration. Counting the turns method doesn't work. Anyone want to offer some advise?

doorgunner

I always replace the crush-sleeve with a new one......

You can get away with NOT having a foot-pound torque wrench....(but you have to tighten/check/tighten/check with the inch-pound torque wrench)

But you must have an inch-pound torque wrench to make sure you have tightened the pinion nut enough....

There should be a chart with an inch-pound pre-load for your specific year differential.....

( It is similar to setting the preload on the steering column/steering box bearing on some cars....you set the inch pound torque wrench to the chart setting---the steering wheel should just start to turn when the torque wrench clicks.....same principle with the pinion bearing.)

dreamweaver1

My Vette is an 81. I could be mistaken but I don't believe 80-82 had crush sleeves. They used pinion shims. An inchpound torque wrench is still a good idea except they are very exspensive. I wonder if Autozone or Oreillys has them in loan-a-tool.

Here is a link for an exploded diagram of the 80-81 differential. No Crush Sleeve.

http://www.duntovmotors.com/differen...2-exp-view.php