Super6

I have scanned the bulk of a different set of installation instructions that may give you a different method or viewpoint on the installation. If you're interested, PM me.

zuendler

Thank you, saw your offer too late.

Yesterday I dialed my bellhousing, its within the limits



Tonight I just wanted to prepare everything to tilt the engine.
Removed distributor, sidepipes, fan, and loosened engine mounts.

Then I prepared my tranny jack, always good to have a good car jack:



And as it was under the car i thought I could try to put the TKO on it...



An then I tought I could put the bellhousing on it, and saw how much space was left for the clutch:



Ok, I had to lift and lower the tranny and the engine several times to get the release bearing and clutch into the bellhousing.
The weights on the centerforce clutch were in the way, would have been easier without them... but it worked within 10 minutes:



The next challange was to get the alignment tool into the disk. Had to lower the engine and the tranny to maximum and it went right in without any modifications.



So far the worst thing is done:


I have only to move the bellhousing to the engine and then the tranny to the bellhousing.
I didnīt expect that i would be able to do this alone in my garage, but it all went well and without and swearwords

Any recomendations at this step? Iīll continue another day and go to bed now. Im done, everything worked well, but it was hard

zuendler

just saw in another post, that the pressure plate should be clocked to the flywheel.
Is this important? I didnīt see any advise in the documents that came with the clutch.
And i didnīt notice any markings on the clutch or flywheel. (But didnīt have a look for that)

zuendler

Continued yesterday and today:

The tranny is in!
There were some little challanges like this allen screw here:



had to make myself a special tool:



Then put the shifter in. There is pretty much space to do this:





Next step was the mount at the crossmember:



and the drive shaft:



done:





Tested 10mls and everything works fine. Despite the speedometer shows too much speed, maybe they calculated the wrong speedo gear for me. Hoping Hurst will send me the right one

It shifts good, similar but softer than the old Munci with the Hurst-shifter on it. Definitly better than the original C3 Munci shifter (I would always upgrade that one with a Hurst).

zuendler

Hurst sent me another speedo gear for free, and now the speedometer indicates the right speed.
And after the break in, the tranny shifts better. Better than the old Muncie, but it feels a bit boring. Shifting the Muncie with the Hurst shifter felt like a thing for real men
Anyway, here is the latest video from me:

Super6

To recover some manliness, shorten your shift handle.

Great sound! I changed over to Hooker Max-Flows after hearing your Vette.

How many cameras are you working with?

zuendler

Thx, I have a Gopro Hero2 and lent another two from my brother, so 3 in total.
Thats like cubic inches, you never have enough

zuendler

The story continues:




While I have already ordered a complete stronger rear end from Mike last month ... I knew why...

flyeri

Does that u joint have the grease fitting the corner? Get rid of those or you will be replacing again. While it seems like a good design, it's just a weak spot that yields the exact result you got.

cv67

Looks like those needle bearings took a beating

69427

Just an engineering question, and no disrespect intended. That u-joint is awfully clean (outside, and what looks like the grease channels). Did you clean it for the picture or was it run without grease?

I've run greaseable u-joints over the years in my car, and have never broke one. I do admit all my track time is road course use (I don't drag race), but I do run grippy tires.

zuendler

I have cleaned it Iīll put it on a board in my office where I collect all the parts the engine has destroyed. The joint here was destroyed on a street in town. At least I was able to roll home with 25mph.

The 1350 Axle kit from Toms Diffs will replace all that stuff in addition with a 12 bolt from Mike.

zuendler

Ordering the 12 bolt + axle kit from Mike was one of my biggest ordering-adventures from USA I ever had. It took maybe 50 PNs and mails, plus some phone calls to exactly explain what I needed (and some for clearifying the delivery issues). Unfortunately I had to wait ~4 months untit all parts arrived here in Germany, but in the end everything went right.
I reveiced from Mike exactly what I wanted and everything seems to fit so far.










I canīt tell how it will run, I first have to put it into the car. At typical job for christmas holidays, isnīt it?









But all this stuff will be sandblasted and powdercoated before reinstalling.

RBrid

You got some exciting parts there, zuendler. You will be able to take full advantage of your zz502. Looking forward to more updates.
Karlsruhe... I grew up next door in the Haguenau/Strasbourg area.

l88rocket

i would switch to a T56 and be done, A stock t56 will live behind about anything.

zuendler

Some progress



On the upper end the old stock shaft: 4.4kgs
Then a reinforced one (at least it was advertised so): 4.4kgs
On the bottom the new one from Toms Diffs: 6.7kgs

Btw: I weighted the stock diff with 42kgs and the 12 bolt with 45kgs.

And some other pics from cleaning and painting the frame:

zuendler

Today I pressed the bushings into the new painted trailing arms.
Then I tried to flare the inner sleeve, but it cracked.
(Maybe I show a picture later)
The sleeve was from Wilcox, but the ones from corvette-america look exactly the same on the photo. So I guess they wonīt be any better.
My local vendor got one sleeve from GM, he said the are better. But still only one piece...
But he has stainless steel sleeves from corvette-america, they look to be softer and accept more bending.
Has anyone experience which sleeves work well?

zuendler

some new pics










































I got this new strud rods from Wilcox:



While the old ones fit tight in the mount, the new ones have way too much travel! Are there spacers missing? There were none in the package. Do I have to make me one myself? Or how should this work?

Solid LT1

Yes! You are missing 4 strut rod washers. Maybe Wilcox can send them to you by express mail as it would be fast delivery and relatively cheap to ship that way. Link to the part you need order 4:

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=6476

zuendler

Thank you.
If this is just a normal washer I will have a look to find them here in Germany. The order @Willcox is 6 monthis ago, I donīt believe they would send me 4 for free to Germany after that time.