eot52

I've been reading for hours all the posts on spark plug wire replacement. I'm down to the passenger side front 2 wires. I don't have a lift but have the front lifted and on jack stands.

My question is. I can't seem to find in AIM or here if I have to remove the starter to get the boomerang shielding loose (already tried to get the one obvious bolt loose from the shielding but couldn't get a socket or wrench on it) to get the old wires out or should I just try removing the distributor end boot on the old and new wires, fasten the 2 together, butt to butt, and attempt to snake them through without removing the starter and shield?

If the boot removal snaking method is tried, how difficult might that be and should both wires be done at the same time or individually?

Solid LT1

Cut off the boot, use duct tape to pull the pair of replacement wires through using the old plug wire. You have 2 shots at this, this system works well and saves hours in labor.

Red Vert 02

On my '69 small block I had to remove the starter in order to remove the "boomerang". It made running the wires much easier. By the way, if your not to concerned about originality you can drill a hole through the boomerang while you have it off to make it easier to remove the block drain plug on that side for the next time you change your coolant. You can loosen the driver side "boomerang" enough to get the other drain plug out.

eot52

Thanks for everyone's help and thanks forum for this website. Job's done. More time learning how to than actually doing it.

Listen to the advice available here and start here. Don't waste time. Read the forum advice and follow it.

You don't have to remove the starter or the boomerang shaped shielding.

Just cut the spark plug end off the old wire and pull the distributor boot off the new wire and tape together, butt to butt, with good sticky duct tape. Keep it small.

Mine has a wire bracket that the plug wires fit in. Make sure the old wires are out of it and toward the front of the engine from it. There's plenty of room for the taped wires to pass through the motor mount.

One man job from top side. Slowly and patiently work both ends. Don't pull them apart.

I used KY Jel (don't ask, if you have to ask you're not old enough to understand yet) to reattach the removed boots. It works great and is not greasy like lubricants.

The 2 passenger side front takes almost as long as remaining 6 but I could do all again, using this method, in a couple of hours.

Good luck and thanks again to the forum and those that took the time to help us newbees to the wonderful world of C3 mechanics.