Jughead

You can ask my wife. that's not one of my favorite words. :lol:
This is the very first complete engine rebuild I've done.

Someone said to wash the block twice using Tide and get those crevice brushes??? I know I need to chase all the threads, but do I need a lubricant in the holes to help? :lol:

The bare surfaces are coated with oil, so what do I coat them with after I wash??

Gordonm

You will want to take transmission fluid and clean each bore with a clean shop towel. I use white paper towels. Transmission fluid is designed to suspend dirt and it takes all the grit off the clylinder walls. Keep doing it until the paper towel stays red from the fluid. It will be gray the first couple of wipes. You would be surprised how much grit is left after washing the block. This will help the rings seal better. The trans fluid left on the walls will keep them from rusting. I wash and chase all threads and just lub with a light oil to keep from rusting.

fauxrs

Wow, someone else who knows about the ATF trick. I was taught that years and years ago but everyone I ever spoke to seemed to think I was some sort of nut. :lol:

Cleanliness is next to Godliness (OK old saying I know) but it is so true. If you have compressed air available then you can do a really thourough (sp?) job with soapy water and rifle brushes for the oil passages. - blow it dry and then do the ATF trick on the bores - the whole engine can be sprayed down with WD40 and then sealed in an engine bag (available at Jegs or other places) a smal bag of dessicant in the lifter valley when the engine is bagged up will help too.

I chase all threaded openings with bottoming taps, being very careful to make sure that the holes are cleaned out afterwards (again - compressed air helps)

Thats a good looking block youve got there :yesnod:


[Modified by fauxrs, 12:50 PM 7/1/2002]

Twin_Turbo

You want to remove the grit and crud that's probably in there. Use a pressure washer and something like simple green, feel with your fingers for cleanliness (especially in the drainback holes), continue to scrub and powerwash till absolutely no grid/crud is left. Then blow off the water with compressed air and immediately spray rust inhibitor on the machined surfaces (or the entire block) or it'll rust immediately. Next rub the bores with lint free shop towels and light oil or ATF as gordon said, continue rubbing till the towel comes out spotlessly clean.

When satisfied give the engine a final coat of rust inhibitor and store in an engine bag or use foil to cover the engine completely

I'd use thread chasers before cleaning the engine though, if doing the thread chasing later on you'll probably have bits of crud fall into the engine again

Marck

Fevre

Did you have it hot tanked and magna fluxed? How much 'crude' can you see left in it? I was under the impression that processed made it pretty clean. Looks pretty clean in your pic.

Lasse

Looks very nice indeed!

I hope mine BB-block will return from the engine shop next month in that shape...

Have you choosed pistons and cam? Which comp rate will you build?

Did you measure each piston and bore/hone individual? I have been told to do so. I don't know if it's necessary?



[Modified by Lasse, 11:02 PM 7/1/2002]

Wrencher

This is where you gotta really go overboard. They come back from the machine shop DIRTY! Clean, clean, clean and use compressed air in all the crannies and crevasses. Borrow or rent a small compressor if you don't have one. Also, you can dry it so that it won't rust. One thing about using lubricants on it - it will attract dust, so be sparing and clean again (did I mention cleaning?) before assembly. Also, buy a bunch of clear trash bags to bag up your work every night.

Hans

Jughead

Thanks for the replies guys. Now I have something to go on.

Fevre---I thought you were going to say that it's a piece of crap and to take it immediately to the junk yard! :lol: :lol:

Yes it was magnafluxed and hot tanked. The inside looks good for a 15 year old block. I think they pressure washed it afterward too!
I can't see any crud.

Lasse I'm using the LS-6 pistons, Weiand intake, cam not nailed down yet. Compression ratio should be 9.5-9.8. The guy at the machine shop wanted the pistons before he bored. Don't know why but he had me confused. It sounded like a reasonable request so I obliged. I asked if I would need to place each piston in a particular cylinder and he said NO! Something about the shape and the weight! Remember, I'm a novice in the low end rebuild dept. :lol: :lol: :crazy:


[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 6:50 PM 7/1/2002]

Rick C.

I have found if you tape and paint the block after the first cleaning and befor you re oil or wd40 it the job looks better and the paint will last longer.
other than that like everyone has said clean clean clean! and try to keep the dust down I close all the shop doors and even dampen the floor, much like if you were going to do painting.

Chuck Harmon

Quote:__________________________________ ____________________

Wow, someone else who knows about the ATF trick. I was taught that years and years ago but everyone I ever spoke to seemed to think I was some sort of nut.

________________________________________ ____________________


fauxrs,

I think everyone may have been right. You can be right about the ATF trick, and they can still be right thinking you are a NUT :lol:

Chuck

p.s. BTW, it's a great idea that I hadn't heard before; but, I will be sure to remember. I'm not worried about spreading the word and anyone thinking I'm more nuts than I already am. That reputation was earned long ago! Using my L88 as a daily driver didn't help my cause.

Stevo81

Are you going to want/ need to have it balanced? Or even blueprinted? My machinist says the balancing it great because it is a big engine in a small car, but the blueprinting is for show. I have yet to take on a building. Got a LOT of learning to do first.

Jughead

I am going to have the rotating assembly balanced. That's the next step. ;)