GDaina

This has me baffled...I replaced the turn signal switch 10 years ago, I failed to connect a ground wire that had a clip, the turn signals would not operate. Once I clipped the wire to the steering column, I had turn signals.

Tomorrow I'm going to the garage and trace the wire....

0Willcox Corvette

It has me baffled too... You sure it wasn't the horn wire?

GDaina

If it were, why would that have an affect on turn signal operation?

68 Issues

Thanks for the help everyone.....Got the switch back in the car and adjusted as far as I could get it, and it still does not work because the brake pedal is so high and hard. I have to totally stomp on the pedal hard enough to lock up the brakes to depress it enough to activate the light switch. I think I will have to put something between the brake pedal and the switch arm to get enough movement to activate it. Anyway, that is the next step.

It has been a great learning experience. Thanks for all of the help.

Kelly

loup68

If it is any consolation, the original GM switches were a POC and did not last long. I had my original and two replacements go in about three years time, when my 68 coupe was my DD. I changed to the 69-up plunger style. I bought the two brackets from GM, only to find that there was no hole to hold the one. I was so mad, that I used some wet rags under the dash and my oxy/acetylene torch to braze it on. I really did not care if the car caught on fire at that moment, after fighting that stupid OEM switch. I use to stand on my head in the seat and use the AC Delco box that the switch came in on top of my head to push in the brake pedal to adjust it. By the way, I found a guy buying a new identical, GM POC switch at a Chevy dealer, and it was for his Chevy truck! Lou.

68 Issues

Okay, just to end my horror story; I crawled up under the dash to try to figure out how I was going to adjust my brake pedal down far enough to get the switch to activate. After a too many minutes of being upside down in the south Florida heat, in a low oxygen content atmosphere, I was not seeing any easy way out of this. Then I started thinking the best thing to do was crack by brake bleeder and let a little air into the system to soften the pedal. When that started sounding good, I realized I had better start extracting myself from under the dash before I permanently bamaged my drain! I'm not certain but I may have passed out about that time.

After a cold adult beverage and some time in the vertical position staring at the car and mumbling strings of four letter words in very random combinations, I came up with what I determined to be a better fix. Just unbolt the master cylinder and screw in the rod that runs from the brake pedal through the fire wall and operates the brakes. Bingo problem solved. Thanks for not laughing at me too much. Next time, no short cuts. Had I only pulled the brake light switch in the first place I probably would have saved myself a bunch of time and the price of a new turn signal switch. Ya live and learn....well sometimes I learn.

loup68

Kelly, believe me when I say that it does not hurt to put a new turn signal switch in your car. The plastic cancelling " fingers " will break off with age. I just had to replace my second GM switch, this February when the inside contacts quit working. I had no brake lights and was out after dark. Thank goodness for the rear fiber optics, so that I realized it. I also added the two extra tail light fiber optic monitors to my car, about 40 years ago, so that all four of my 68 tail lights are monitored. Check my threads for a photo of my shifter plate. Lou.