jorourke11

Can anyone tell me the most economical power booster brake kit that is easy to install for a 1969 corvette with manual brakes

MelWff

you need the master also here are both

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=22171

GDaina

why do you want to go from a solid pedal to a mushy pedal? This forum is full of posts guys complaining how mushy their power brakes feel...they are dumping their brakes for...for...crap...can't think of the system..but the stopping distance is about the same as manual brakes....bleed your brakes...and enjoy a hard pedal....

DUB

I have done several conversions ( from manual brakes to power assist) and never had an issue with mushy brakes. If you have mushy brakes...you do not have it right. Often times an incorrect brake bleeding procedure and air is still in the system. Sometimes I have found that a slight modification to the clevis that threads onto the shaft of the booster. I spent DAYS on a job that when I took the matched booster master cylinder assembly out of the 1972 manual brake car I was working on that would not work...even though I pressure bled 2 gallons of fluid through the system...and then and put it on a 1977 and had rock hard brakes...and when I put it back in the '72 it did not feel good at all. I found that i needed to extend the nut on the clevis and shave it to where when I hit the brakes...they were AWESOME!!! Do not ask me why...but that is what I found that gave the guy AWESOME brakes.

I can say that if your oil dipstick is on the drivers side of the engine...the brake booster shown in the photo is for a Corvette that has the oil dipstick on the passenger side of the engine. And TRUST ME...there s a difference in the design of the brake booster for a left hand mounted dip stick versus that of a right hand mounted dip stick. Even though it will bolt in place and work...you have to "modify" you dip stick so you will be able to EASILY access it. The easiest way to tell if the booster is correct for a left side dip stick location is that the surface that the master cylinder mounts to ON the booster is FLAT...the right side dip stick style booster has a recess in the front face of the booster so the master cylinder fits somewhat INSIDE the front face of the booster. AND yes it makes a BIG difference...unless you want to fight to get you dipstick in and out.

DUB

GDaina

Oh I agree with you on the brakes, but not everyone is able to analyze the problems, hence the posts regarding mushy brakes, and this includes manual as well...

Still, if manuals work, stop the car, have a hard pedal, why change?

jorourke11

My brakes work great but my wife wants to drive it and wants power brakes.

jorourke11

DUB thank you. Can you recommend a site or part # for the power booster with master cylinder for a oil dipstick on the driver side?

Easy Mike

If you want the optional stock set up, the assembly instruction manual shows all of the parts required and lists the original GM part numbers for everything.

Some of the major vendors offer conversion kits using most of the stock set up parts.

DUB

I do not know where to get the correct booster that allows the oil dipstick to work correctly on the left side. I know that I have lucked out in some cases when I go to NAPA and look through their selection ( because I am right near a major distribution warehouse).

PM me with you e-mail and I can either send you photo's of what one looks like....or possibly cal Vette Brakes and Products...talk to Gary and see if he might have the correct design.

Or you can try "booster dewey" who is either in Oregon or Washington state. He might have one.

I will look on my end for you but it might have to go to Booster Dewey for rebuilding...which is what I do for them.

DUB

Bob Heine

I'm getting old so this may be just my dementia kicking in. When I tried doing this upgrade on a friend's 73 Corvette about 30 years ago, it turned out not to be a simple bolt-in project.

First, the firewall is different. The manual brake master cylinder mounts directly to the firewall with two bolts. The power brake booster mounts to the firewall with four bolts and in a slightly lower position. You are going to have to get in the engine compartment and drill the holes. I haven't done this job but it isn't a handy location to work.

Second, the linkage is different. The brake pedal arm has two holes up near the fulcrum. The lower hole is meant for the power brake linkage and the upper hole is meant for the manual brake linkage. Also requires some swapping around of brake light switches.

Third, the connection to the master cylinder is different. The pushrod connected to the brake pedal goes directly into the manual master cylinder but the pushrod connected to the brake pedal goes into the brake booster and another pushrod comes out of the booster and connects to the master cylinder.

Fourth, the master cylinders are different. The manual master cylinder has a 1" bore and the power master cylinder has a 1-1/8" bore. If you buy your own master cylinder instead of buying the whole kit, you need to be aware that there are two different depth cups on the power master cylinders. Early cylinders have a deep cup and later cylinders have the shallow cup. You need to have the matching length pushrod, depending on which one you buy.


Zip sells the complete conversion kit, with instructions for $349.95:
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&


If you go to the Zip web page in the above link, the instructions can be downloaded if you want to check through them before jumping into the conversion.

OOOORRRR

If you don't want to drill holes in your firewall AND you have power steering on your car, you can convert to hydroboost power brakes. Hydratech has a bolt-on kit that mounts in the same two holes as your manual brakes but gives you hydraulic assist. Starts at $525....

Here's the link (bottom of the page for the manual conversion):
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/C3Corvette.html

GDaina

OOOORRRR
Go the bone yard and find a one ton chevy van/truck and get the parts

noonie

Part Numbers from NAPA

1976 and earlier
Early with flat booster (takes deep master piston)
Part Number: NBB 5491200
Master with deep hole piston
Part Number: NMC M1974






1977 and later
Late with recessed booster (takes dimple piston)
Part Number: NBB 5481200
Master with dimple piston
Part Number: NMC M2300

jorourke11

Sounds like I should keep the manual brakes (That work fine) and forget the power brakes