Sticky lifter?
08-04-2013, 06:21 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sticky lifter?
Hi team, here's the problem(77 L48) changed my oil and filter recently (20/50) and shortly after when I started the car from cold I get this sticky lifter noise from LH side for about a minute or 2, exhaust gaskets are new and tight so not that!
May be add an oil additive might help? Risolone or marvel mystery oil etc
Any suggestions?
cheers Dave
May be add an oil additive might help? Risolone or marvel mystery oil etc
Any suggestions?
cheers Dave
08-04-2013, 10:05 AM
#3
08-05-2013, 05:07 AM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for that, I might have a look under the rocker covers first to see if I can track something down
Question: if you use an oil additive how long do you leave it in the engine? Not sure about Trans oil it might just work!
cheers Dave
Question: if you use an oil additive how long do you leave it in the engine? Not sure about Trans oil it might just work!
cheers Dave
08-05-2013, 08:53 AM
#5
Team Owner
Why are you using 20W50 oil in the engine? Do you live in Dubai? Way too thick for normal U.S. temps. Because of the viscosity increase, you may actually be on the verge of starving the lifters of oil. They only have small orifices for oil intakes, anyway.
Drain two quarts of oil out and put in two quarts of 20W to see if your lifter noise goes away. I think they are getting oil...but maybe not fully pumping up to handle the pushrod load properly.
Drain two quarts of oil out and put in two quarts of 20W to see if your lifter noise goes away. I think they are getting oil...but maybe not fully pumping up to handle the pushrod load properly.
08-06-2013, 05:52 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hi I think you might be right, I have gone down to the Castrol guys today and checked through there computers and they recommend 10/40 for my conditions(New Zealand temp 5c to 35c)
Haven't checked under the rocker covers yet but will let you know
thanks again cheers Dave
Haven't checked under the rocker covers yet but will let you know
thanks again cheers Dave
08-06-2013, 08:25 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
i use castrol 20w-50 in my stock 350 here in australia, temps around the same, maybe a bit warmer.
label says recommended for older pre 1992(?) engines
label says recommended for older pre 1992(?) engines
08-06-2013, 04:30 PM
#8
Team Owner
I've got 'news' for you boyz. Way back when I was a younger guy, and C3's were new.....the temperatures around the world were just about the same as they are now. And GM specified 30W or 10W30 for about everything except where it is VERY, VERY COLD and 20W40 for where it was VERY, VERY HOT.
08-06-2013, 05:11 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Read this. Absorb the info, and I doubt you'll ever use a 20w anything again.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
08-06-2013, 05:43 PM
#11
Read this. Absorb the info, and I doubt you'll ever use a 20w anything again.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
08-06-2013, 08:16 PM
#12
Race Director
Read this. Absorb the info, and I doubt you'll ever use a 20w anything again.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
08-07-2013, 05:15 AM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Read this. Absorb the info, and I doubt you'll ever use a 20w anything again.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
cheers Dave
08-07-2013, 08:37 AM
#14
Team Owner
10W30 or straight 30W...not 5W30. 5W30 is for cold weather areas and the oil is pretty thin until it heats up. Not really what you want with cold start-ups in normal temperature areas.
08-07-2013, 11:30 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
10W30 or straight 30W...not 5W30. 5W30 is for cold weather areas and the oil is pretty thin until it heats up. Not really what you want with cold start-ups in normal temperature areas.
It is time to dispel the notion that 0W-30 oil is too thin when our manual calls for 10W-30. A 0W-30 is always the better choice, always. The 0W-30 is not thinner. It is the same thickness as the 10W-30 at operating temperatures. The difference is when you turn your engine off for the night. Both oils thicken over the evening and night. They both had a thickness, a viscosity of 10 when you got home and turned your engine off. That was the perfect thickness for engine operation.
As cooling occurs and you wake up ready to go back to work the next day the oils have gotten too thick for your engine to lubricate properly. It is 75 F outside this morning. One oil thickened to a viscosity of say 90. The other thickened to a viscosity of 40. Both are too thick in the morning at startup. But 40 is better than 90 on start up. Your engine wants the oil to have a thickness of 10 to work properly. You are better off starting with the viscosity of 40 than the honey - like oil with a viscosity of 90.
As cooling occurs and you wake up ready to go back to work the next day the oils have gotten too thick for your engine to lubricate properly. It is 75 F outside this morning. One oil thickened to a viscosity of say 90. The other thickened to a viscosity of 40. Both are too thick in the morning at startup. But 40 is better than 90 on start up. Your engine wants the oil to have a thickness of 10 to work properly. You are better off starting with the viscosity of 40 than the honey - like oil with a viscosity of 90.
Please forget those numbers on the oil can. They really should be letters as AW-M, BW-N or CW-P. The fact that we are dealing with a system of numbers on the can makes people think that they represent the viscosity of the oil inside the can. The problem is that the viscosity of oil varies with its temperature. A “30” grade oil has a viscosity of 3 at 302 F ( 150 C ) and thickens to 10 at 212 F ( 100 C ). It further thickens to a viscosity of 100 at 104 F ( 40 C ) and is too thick to measure at the freezing point of 32 F ( 0 C ).
Oils are divided into grades (not weights) such as a 20, 30 or 40 grade oils. This represents the viscosity range at operating temperature. But it is NOT the actual viscosity as we shall see. The issue is that viscosity is temperature dependent. Let’s look at a 30 grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature:
30 grade oil (often referred to as a 30 “weight” oil):
Temperature ( F )....Thickness
302...........................3
212..........................10
104..........................100
32..........................250 (rough estimate)
30 grade oil (often referred to as a 30 “weight” oil):
Temperature ( F )....Thickness
302...........................3
212..........................10
104..........................100
32..........................250 (rough estimate)
08-07-2013, 04:46 PM
#17
Team Owner
Right.
Not sure where that info on multi-grade oils was gleaned, but if there isn't any difference between 30W, 10W30 or 0W30, why are they produced and labeled that way? My understanding of multi-grade oils is that the first number is the viscosity of that oil when cold and the second number is the viscosity of that oil when at normal operating temps. So, 0W30 would have a "thin" (less viscous) condition at start up; and if you use it in a temperate zone climate, then there won't be any film thickness to assist lubrication during the start-up period (where MOST of the engine wear is produced).
I'm not buying the concept that, which of those oils you use, "doesn't make any difference". So, I won't be putting 0W30 in any of my cars. But, others can do what they want.
Not sure where that info on multi-grade oils was gleaned, but if there isn't any difference between 30W, 10W30 or 0W30, why are they produced and labeled that way? My understanding of multi-grade oils is that the first number is the viscosity of that oil when cold and the second number is the viscosity of that oil when at normal operating temps. So, 0W30 would have a "thin" (less viscous) condition at start up; and if you use it in a temperate zone climate, then there won't be any film thickness to assist lubrication during the start-up period (where MOST of the engine wear is produced).
I'm not buying the concept that, which of those oils you use, "doesn't make any difference". So, I won't be putting 0W30 in any of my cars. But, others can do what they want.
08-07-2013, 06:00 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
and it goes out the window when it is synthetic.i have used 20 w 50 synthetic oil in everything for 30 plus years, never had a new car that didn't go 300k miles never had a car that burned oil or leaked a drop
i wish people would stop with this oil stuff, its old
08-07-2013, 09:12 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Right.
Not sure where that info on multi-grade oils was gleaned, but if there isn't any difference between 30W, 10W30 or 0W30, why are they produced and labeled that way? My understanding of multi-grade oils is that the first number is the viscosity of that oil when cold and the second number is the viscosity of that oil when at normal operating temps. So, 0W30 would have a "thin" (less viscous) condition at start up; and if you use it in a temperate zone climate, then there won't be any film thickness to assist lubrication during the start-up period (where MOST of the engine wear is produced).
I'm not buying the concept that, which of those oils you use, "doesn't make any difference". So, I won't be putting 0W30 in any of my cars. But, others can do what they want.
Not sure where that info on multi-grade oils was gleaned, but if there isn't any difference between 30W, 10W30 or 0W30, why are they produced and labeled that way? My understanding of multi-grade oils is that the first number is the viscosity of that oil when cold and the second number is the viscosity of that oil when at normal operating temps. So, 0W30 would have a "thin" (less viscous) condition at start up; and if you use it in a temperate zone climate, then there won't be any film thickness to assist lubrication during the start-up period (where MOST of the engine wear is produced).
I'm not buying the concept that, which of those oils you use, "doesn't make any difference". So, I won't be putting 0W30 in any of my cars. But, others can do what they want.
It's interesting that Mobile 1's current 0W-30 states on the bottle that it meets warranty protection for 5W-30 and 10W-30 requirements. I talked to a lubrication engineer and he said the car manufacturer's are getting on board with 0W-xx oils. He said even a 0W oil is still too thick to prevent start up wear which backs up the article.
DC
08-08-2013, 07:11 AM
#20
Team Owner
Synthetic oil has better film strength than organic, for the same 'weight' oil. So, 0W30 synthetic will not cause the same amount of start-up wear that a 0W30 organic oil would allow.
My question is, "Why would I want to run a 0W oil in my car at all???" I live in Tennessee and I never drive the car in cold weather. Just because this fellow with a doctorate says it's OK, does that mean I should do it?
My question is, "Why would I want to run a 0W oil in my car at all???" I live in Tennessee and I never drive the car in cold weather. Just because this fellow with a doctorate says it's OK, does that mean I should do it?