bladesmith750

I replaced all the parking brake components, installed rebuilt rear axle assemblies, put new u joints in half shafts, new rotors. After driving about a block, a squeak develops that happens about once per revolution and quits when I put on the brakes. I replaced the ujoints again , but problem started again shortly after that. Any ideas?

PeteZO6

I suggest two tests. First while you can hear the squeak, gently apply the parking brake. Not fully on, but enough to feel some drag. If the squeak goes away, you need to look at the parking brake mechanism in the rotors/hats.
If no change, try the same test but lightly apply the disc brakes. I'd the squeak goes away you have a pad or pads moving around when the brakes are off. I wouldn't apply any lube, but you can clean things up and eliminate the squeak by trial and error.

Pete

Mike Ward

Rotor runout. If you've still got the old rotors, reinstall them.

bladesmith750

The squeak was present with the old rotors, and I was told that was the problem, so that was why I put new rotors on, but that didn't fix it. I will try the parking brake tomorrow to see if that makes it stop.

20mercury

Kinda of strange to my way of thinking, but these C3's had the rotors riveted on the hub at the factory and they machine turned this assembly to true up the rotor. So when you drill out the rivets and install a perfectly true rotor you can still get a runout on the new rotor. Some rivet the new rotor to the hub and machine turn the whole assembly like they did at the factory. I decided to go the shim route, where you shim between the rotor and the old hub until you get the runout to .003 or less. You can also try putting the new rotor in different positions on the old hub and sometimes you can find a truer spot than others and so have to install less shims.

Your squeak might be something else, but I would check the rotors for runout in any event.

Do a search here and there are lots of posts on how to do this. That is how I learned and this forum is the best around with lots of good helpful folks, Thanks to all and hope this helps.

bladesmith750

Thanks to everyone for the tips and ideas, I will let you know what fixed it when I'm finished checking all this. Thanks again, Steve

Freepop

I have the same squeak so I'll be monitoring this

Mooser

When you say you changed the u-joints again and the squeak "started again shortly after that" I'm taking that it did go away for a little bit.

The outer u-joint flanges (at the wheel) are easily bent when removing / installing u-joints. If they are bent. they can quite quickly get a u-joint wearing to one side and that will start squeaking once (could be twice but doubtful) per revolution.

How freely did they move on the joints? Did they retaining rings go in easily? etc.etc.etc
Pop the caps off the old ones and have a look for patterns/marks on the stems

M

gcusmano74

Yes. The outer flanges are very easily bent when pressing out the U joints. Eckler's sells a plate to reinforce the flange during U joint replacement for that very purpose.

bladesmith750

Well everyone, after days of testing and phone calls, here is what I found to be the culprit making the squeak in the rear of my car. This all started with the parking brake not working, and having a manual shift I felt it necessary for it to work. Little did I know the whole rear end had to be torn apart to replace the parking brake shoes. In the process I discovered a bad bearing in one of the spindles, and found out you needed some tools I don't have to properly assemble them, so I purchased some that were rebuilt. Long story short, the left spindle is 10 thousandths out of true, causing the rotor to be 20 thousandths out of true, which was causing the brake pads to rub and producing that very annoying squeak! I am working with the people that rebuilt the spindles to try to get them to warranty their work and making headway there. THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE FOR THE HELP, IT WAS ALL VERY HELPFUL IN FINALLY GETTING TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS. Steve

Mike Ward

Not true. Typically only the rotors need to be removed, an easy operation.

That's what was mentioned up above regarding rotor runout. It's unfortunate that so many garages/mechanics are ignorant of the special procedure required on C2/C3 Corvettes. It's usually the owners that end up paying.

bladesmith750

I did not mean to say the whole rear end had to be torn apart just to change the parking brake shoes, but that is what led up to finding the bad bearing and subsequent whole rear disassembly. I guess I should have proofread my last post, sorry, Mike. Hope this helps someone, Steve