help me build my new 427 short block..
#41
Race Director
Ok. that is scary... that bid was from CNC who is being recommended on this thread..So now i totally question there ability and truthfulness....
427 is what i am shooting for using my 64cc heads
So.... you would choose the World block?
i agree..... and i see no reason i would ever need or want anything more than 800hp
Thank you, I WILL check them out.
427 is what i am shooting for using my 64cc heads
So.... you would choose the World block?
i agree..... and i see no reason i would ever need or want anything more than 800hp
Thank you, I WILL check them out.
#42
Team Owner
Nothing is for FREE! These engine shops are there to make money.
I have a friend that bought a high end 427. It came with a printed dyno sheet. The only problem was it could not run when delivered because the cam hit the rods. I was wondering how they put a motor together if you couldn't even rotate the motor.
It costs time and money to mount and unmounts a motor from a dyno. So they were obviously dynoing motors on the copy machine
#43
When you are done with your bottom end selection, my top end will be for sale. The car isnt on the road yet and I am already upgrading components, lol. I will be selling fully cnc'd afr 210s, hyd roller cam, pushrods, rockers etc. The car has been in the shop for two years as a restomod project. The engine is started and run monthly but has never been run under load. If interested the parts will go at a steep discount.
The engine dyno'd at 565hp at ultrastreet.net. I am going solid roller, more compression and bigger heads. I should have never visited the yellowbullet forum, lol.
The engine dyno'd at 565hp at ultrastreet.net. I am going solid roller, more compression and bigger heads. I should have never visited the yellowbullet forum, lol.
Last edited by uxojerry; 06-26-2013 at 09:22 PM.
#44
Race Director
Thread Starter
63Mako, I would trust you to build a motor over any of these places.
Nothing is for FREE! These engine shops are there to make money.
I have a friend that bought a high end 427. It came with a printed dyno sheet. The only problem was it could not run when delivered because the cam hit the rods. I was wondering how they put a motor together if you couldn't even rotate the motor.
It costs time and money to mount and unmounts a motor from a dyno. So they were obviously dynoing motors on the copy machine
Nothing is for FREE! These engine shops are there to make money.
I have a friend that bought a high end 427. It came with a printed dyno sheet. The only problem was it could not run when delivered because the cam hit the rods. I was wondering how they put a motor together if you couldn't even rotate the motor.
It costs time and money to mount and unmounts a motor from a dyno. So they were obviously dynoing motors on the copy machine
When you are done with your bottom end selection, my top end will be for sale. The car isnt on the road yet and I am already upgrading components, lol. I will be selling fully cnc'd afr 210s, hyd roller cam, pushrods, rockers etc. The car has been in the shop for two years as a restomod project. The engine is started and run monthly but has never been run under load. If interested the parts will go at a steep discount.
The engine dyno'd at 565hp at ultrastreet.net. I am going solid roller, more compression and bigger heads. I should have never visited the yellowbullet forum, lol.
The engine dyno'd at 565hp at ultrastreet.net. I am going solid roller, more compression and bigger heads. I should have never visited the yellowbullet forum, lol.
Don't think I will need any... Shooting for 650hp and I already have well over 4000$ in heads and valve train
#45
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
If you want a guaranteed 650 on the motor put together right & dynoed go see Joe Sherman in Santa Ana he will get it done for you, hes cost conscious and detail oriented. At least youll know exactly what you got tuned to perfection drop it in and go
#46
Burning Brakes
One thing that catches my eye on your parts list is the piston. I like the Mahley power packs but I prefer a reverse dome aka D cup to a 360* dish. Quench / squish works a lot better with .035-.040 clearance. I would take a look at the piston, rod and bob weight numbers befor I but money on a rotating assy.
and +1 for Big Joe
and +1 for Big Joe
#47
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thank you, i may give hime a call, I would like to do the assembly of the engine myself. I have full assess to a machine shop and engine rebuild shop.... what I need to do is make up my mind on what block, and what rotating assemble to purchase. The rest is easy...
#48
Race Director
Thread Starter
One thing that catches my eye on your parts list is the piston. I like the Mahley power packs but I prefer a reverse dome aka D cup to a 360* dish. Quench / squish works a lot better with .035-.040 clearance. I would take a look at the piston, rod and bob weight numbers befor I but money on a rotating assy.
and +1 for Big Joe
and +1 for Big Joe
#49
Race Director
http://www.callies.com/components/rotating-assemblies/
http://www.worldcastings.com/product...on-blocks.html
If your going with a 427 CI
I would go with the 350 main world block 084020 with splayed billet caps 084120 and have callies spec and balance a rotating assembly for you. Then you will have to have the block finish honed. All measurements double checked, a small base circle cam, billet would be best, new pushrods, new oil pan, oil pump, pickup, timing set. Having access to the equipment is huge. 350 main crank is lighter and plenty strong. Lightweight rotator might be worth talking to Callies about.
http://www.worldcastings.com/product...on-blocks.html
If your going with a 427 CI
I would go with the 350 main world block 084020 with splayed billet caps 084120 and have callies spec and balance a rotating assembly for you. Then you will have to have the block finish honed. All measurements double checked, a small base circle cam, billet would be best, new pushrods, new oil pan, oil pump, pickup, timing set. Having access to the equipment is huge. 350 main crank is lighter and plenty strong. Lightweight rotator might be worth talking to Callies about.
Last edited by 63mako; 06-26-2013 at 11:57 PM.
#51
Race Director
Thread Starter
I read this on another forum in my research, it seems to have been made by someone at World:
Here's some of the advantages of our World Mowtown II block:
1. Far better cam oiling which prolongs the life of your cam/lifters. It is still priority main oiling, but redirected over the top of the cam
2. Dowel Pins on the main caps. Our competitor uses stock registers. There is no one on earth that can convince me that dowel pins aren't a stronger solution
3. We use all ARP hardware
4. We provide for a 55MM Cam
5. We are nearly finished machined saving a bunch of money on machine shop work
Those are a few quick points, I am back on the clock on Monday if you need more.
Feature for feature, on the important stuff, I believe (as I should) we have it hands down.
And I'm comparing to any top of the line block out there, not entry level junk..
this is actually good reading:
http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/t...3137044716/p/2
Here's some of the advantages of our World Mowtown II block:
1. Far better cam oiling which prolongs the life of your cam/lifters. It is still priority main oiling, but redirected over the top of the cam
2. Dowel Pins on the main caps. Our competitor uses stock registers. There is no one on earth that can convince me that dowel pins aren't a stronger solution
3. We use all ARP hardware
4. We provide for a 55MM Cam
5. We are nearly finished machined saving a bunch of money on machine shop work
Those are a few quick points, I am back on the clock on Monday if you need more.
Feature for feature, on the important stuff, I believe (as I should) we have it hands down.
And I'm comparing to any top of the line block out there, not entry level junk..
this is actually good reading:
http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/t...3137044716/p/2
#52
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
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St. Jude Donor '05
Havent used a world but have used the Dart Litte M I htought it was a real nice piece would use one in a second.
Be nice to see you acheive your goals but dont see 650NA from those parts youre gonna need much more. Or was that 650 on the bottle? You mentioned good for 800hp so was assuming 650na
Think if youre going to be beating this thing up on a track a lot at that power level might be a good idea to have a pro step in and do it just to get those extra little things they do to get more power/longevity out of it. Kind of foolproof things
I know, I know....lol
Be nice to see you acheive your goals but dont see 650NA from those parts youre gonna need much more. Or was that 650 on the bottle? You mentioned good for 800hp so was assuming 650na
Think if youre going to be beating this thing up on a track a lot at that power level might be a good idea to have a pro step in and do it just to get those extra little things they do to get more power/longevity out of it. Kind of foolproof things
I know, I know....lol
Last edited by cv67; 06-27-2013 at 07:25 AM.
#53
Race Director
Thread Starter
Havent used a world but have used the Dart Litte M I htought it was a real nice piece would use one in a second.
Be nice to see you acheive your goals but dont see 650NA from those parts youre gonna need much more. Or was that 650 on the bottle? You mentioned good for 800hp so was assuming 650na
Think if youre going to be beating this thing up on a track a lot at that power level might be a good idea to have a pro step in and do it just to get those extra little things they do to get more power/longevity out of it. Kind of foolproof things
I know, I know....lol
Be nice to see you acheive your goals but dont see 650NA from those parts youre gonna need much more. Or was that 650 on the bottle? You mentioned good for 800hp so was assuming 650na
Think if youre going to be beating this thing up on a track a lot at that power level might be a good idea to have a pro step in and do it just to get those extra little things they do to get more power/longevity out of it. Kind of foolproof things
I know, I know....lol
my concerns lay in which is the best all around block for my purpose, and which rotating assembly is going to be the strongest, lightest and best again for my use, with keeping an eye on the money as to not get to crazy...
I'm pondering the Aluminum block also at this time...
#54
There's a ton of complaints about world products over on speed talk from many people, not just blockman that sells dart blocks.
Something to check into.
Something to check into.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 06-27-2013 at 01:21 PM.
#55
Team Owner
My Motown has been great. I talked to blockman years ago and his complaints were specific. He would need to post them.
Mine is ready for reassembly. If I had it to do all over again. I would have opted for the aluminum tall deck and raised cam
Mine is ready for reassembly. If I had it to do all over again. I would have opted for the aluminum tall deck and raised cam
Last edited by gkull; 06-27-2013 at 03:55 PM.
#57
Its been around for a lot of yrs and has always been called... Bill Mitchell hardcore racing/world products so he has always been connected or involved. Interesting if world products is no longer with them you get ahold of them at, www.worldcastings.com
For two yrs now I first look at corvette forum then speed talk and café racer everyday. For two yrs over at speed talk i have read of nothing but problems with world products I guess while bill Mitchell stood around with his finger up his *** not caring what is going on, but now he has turned over a new leaf after customers go elsewhere.
Simply go over to speed talk ask some more questions.
For two yrs now I first look at corvette forum then speed talk and café racer everyday. For two yrs over at speed talk i have read of nothing but problems with world products I guess while bill Mitchell stood around with his finger up his *** not caring what is going on, but now he has turned over a new leaf after customers go elsewhere.
Simply go over to speed talk ask some more questions.