rafalc

Ive had these wheels on since I bought the car and I would like to keep them. They require a half inch spacer and use shank lug nuts in order to catch enough of the thread. I will most likely keep the half inch spacer since adapters will make the wheels move out from underneath the fenders too much (cant find a half inch adapter) and I rather not cut the studs.

When I send the TArms to be rebuild, I am considering telling the shop to install longer studs of the same stock diameter. Are there studs with stock diameter but longer?

Links? Brands?

Thanks

tshort

Why don't you go with some larger studs? They will be longer and also stronger. Can't remember which ones but I went with either 3/8" or 1/2" studs when I rebuilt my arms and rear-end.

rafalc

Will the larger studs still fit most/all wheels? If I do go with larger studs I would have to get different lug nuts (additional expense) and I guess I would need to verify if this larger stud/nut combo will fit in the current wheel holes.....

TheSkunkWorks

FWIW I've got 1/2" x 3" HD studs on mine, but do run open nuts. The only difference is that the 1/2" lug nuts have thinner shanks (mag type), but same OD. Believe the studs were Moroso, but I can't remember the PN# or knurl diameter tho.

tshort

Yes they'll still fit your wheels and yes you'll need new lug nuts. I also went with the open style nuts as I didn't cut down the studs. I believe NHRA doesn't allow you to cut them down if you're racing the car and go through a true tech inspection.

TheSkunkWorks

A number of sanctioning bodies require open lug nuts so they can readily check for sufficient thread engagement. And, some (rules on this vary greatly) either regulate or prohibit spacers and/or adapters.

gcusmano74

Pull one of the studs out and bring it to a GOOD auto parts shop. A grey haired counterman should be able to find you some longer studs. The factory thread is 7/16" National Fine. Not a bad idea to try to upgrade to 1/2", since you are hanging the wheel way out there. Or maybe Jegs or Summit could help you.
Make sure the wheel is riding on the hub of the wheel bearing, and not just on the lugs. That is a HUGE safety issue.
The hub of the wheel is designed to carry the weight of the car. The wheel studs and nuts are there just to keep it in place on the hub.

rafalc

I actually remember reading a thread about the hub vs studs and what the wheel rides on.... cant find it now but the member/shop did some tests and the results showed that most of the wheel weight is resting on the studs most of the time.

But anyway.....with the .5" spacer behind my wheels, they only do and only will rest on the studs....

cv67

Heard that debate and it makes sense but many wheels for racing say like Weld are lug centric and do not rest on the hub. THink all that does is help center the lugs thats all.

diehrd

Hub Centric places the weight directly on the axle , lug centric the weight is on the studs . Most OEM rims are hub centric . . . It is the after market boys who make most of the lug centric rims .

yellow-fever

Please excuse my ignorance, but how do you replace the stock 7/16" rear studs with longer 1/2" ones?

rafalc

I just found out myself after speaking with Van Steel .... all that needs to be done is the stud holes need to be drilled out more in the hub? or spindle? whatever the part is called and the brake rotor.

They also recommended that since I do not plan on racing the car and do not have extremely high HP ..... the 7/16 will be fine even if a little longer than stock.

yellow-fever

So I can just replace my stock 7/16 studs with longer ones without drilling anything? And Van Steel sells them?

rafalc

These are ARP studs sold by many vendors...... these are not Van Steel produced studs. Once installed you will have to take some good measurements and cut the stud to the length you need.

Yes, no drilling if the stud width (diameter) is the same as stock. You will just have to press the old ones out and press new in. Or at least thats what i understand needs to be done.

Solid LT1

ARP makes the best studs. Going to 1/2" wheel studs requires a redrilling of your spindle and it is a very hard material to drill. You should consider going to bigger diameter studs if you make over 400HP and hit the drag strip or run sticky tires. ARP also makes 3" long 7/16" wheel studs which are far stronger than OEM studs they will press right in but, I recommend you use a guide to get those studs in straight as the knurls on the stud base can sometimes not be concentric with the thread of the stud and when you get out 3" away the stud bolt pattern can be way off of what it is at the spindle base. I use an old Vette Brakes 4" wheel spacer to guide the new studs into position when I change to long studs on my race Vettes.

You should also be careful and check the clearance between the parking brake hardware and the heads of the studs to make sure there is no interference between anything before reassembling the spindle assembly.

yellow-fever

Great info. Thanks! Do you have a part number on the correct 3" 7/16 ARP studs we need?

Solid LT1

APP 100-7701 should work in stock spindles and front hubs.