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If you go the LSX route, you won't be disappointed. I recently just finished my 402 stroker LS2 with a 4L70e trans and love it. My ride is a 74 resto rod, I love having a modern drive train in a classic C3 body, you can't go wrong with a resto rod.
Riggs
I agree completely. A C3 resto rod is the best thing I have ever done with a car. It looks and feels like an antique but starts and drives like a new car. Fuel injection means you turn the key and the car is running, 4 spd auto or a 5 spd stick means it is relaxed on the freeway! Getting much better milage. And to my eye the view over the hood of a C3 is the best ever. Just box up and save your stock parts and you are covered for whatever the future holds. Oh, and you know that left behind feeling you get when a new model of your current sports car comes out? That will never happen again!
I agree completely. A C3 resto rod is the best thing I have ever done with a car. It looks and feels like an antique but starts and drives like a new car. Fuel injection means you turn the key and the car is running, 4 spd auto or a 5 spd stick means it is relaxed on the freeway! Getting much better milage. And to my eye the view over the hood of a C3 is the best ever. Just box up and save your stock parts and you are covered for whatever the future holds. Oh, and you know that left behind feeling you get when a new model of your current sports car comes out? That will never happen again!
Zorro
Im excited about it. I will be using my old small block. With a little work it can crank out the HP I want/need and I will be using a close ratio 4-speed.
I had the trailing arms rebuilt. They look great but now the struts wont line up to attach. What the ????
It's looking great! The struts are temperamental........You'll need a couple extra jackstands to hold the trailing arms level in order for everything to fit/bolt in place.....the manual also warns not to torque down the 4 bolts that mount the spring-pack to the differential until all the weight of the car is placed on the wheels (to prevent breaking the threaded flanges off the differential)
I made a "tag" and taped it to the spring so I wouldn't forget to torque the bolts.
(I've been in a PTSD-related slump/out-of-town lately and haven't been paying attention )
Last edited by doorgunner; 07-27-2014 at 02:57 PM.
It's looking great! The struts are temperamental........You'll need a couple extra jackstands to hold the trailing arms level in order for everything to fit/bolt in place.....the manual also warns not to torque down the 4 bolts that mount the spring-pack to the differential until all the weight of the car is placed on the wheels (to prevent breaking the threaded flanges off the differential)
I made a "tag" and taped it to the spring so I wouldn't forget to torque the bolts.
(I've been in a PTSD-related slump/out-of-town lately and haven't been paying attention )
This is what I am looking at. The left side strut will fall right in to place. The right side strut sits to the rear of the carrier. Ill find out tomorrow. I sent an email and they are on the ball over there.
This is the right side. It would have to be bent a lot to fit. Not gonna happen.
The original block is at the machine shop. it is .040 over and looks good. The pistons are good too. I probably will not need to go .060. The heads are good too. 2.02 intakes. Now to decide on the new cam and valve train. I will be very happy with 350 hp.
The original block is at the machine shop. it is .040 over and looks good. The pistons are good too. I probably will not need to go .060. The heads are good too. 2.02 intakes. Now to decide on the new cam and valve train. I will be very happy with 350 hp.
Never mind. It will be 60 over with new forged pistons. It will be this blocks last hurrah.
07-26-2014, 11:58 AM
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