JD Butter

Hey, folks! I'm new to the forum, and to classic Corvette ownership. I figured other forum users have loads of real world experience with the various "high-zinc" motor oils on the market, so I thought I might troll for recommendations.

I have a 69 L46 which has 66,200 original miles, and has never been out of the car, and is very original with no mods. It lives in a warm west coast climate. It came filled up with Brad Penn 10W30, and I've only put like a hundred miles on it so far, but at some point, I will obviously need to top it off and/or get an oil change, so I am looking to pick up a case of something just to be ready. I was also considering the Champion Classic and Muscle Car, which I believe has morphed into Hemmings Classic Car Oil. Has a similar or slightly higher Zinc ppm, and is slightly cheaper. Anyone have any opinions on these, or other high-zinc racing oils (Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc.)?

C66 Racing

Welcome to the forum!

There is a sticky at the top of this forum with a wealth of knowledge on this topic for you.

AMSOIL makes an oil specifically for this market:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.

63mako

The Amsoil Z-rod would be my choice as well. You really can't go wrong with it.

gcusmano74

Can't go wrong with Mobil 1, and it's available everywhere.

63mako

Mobil 1 is fine if you have a roller cam, it has under 800 ppm Zinc and phosphorous.

Mike Ward

You don't want or need 'racing' oil for a stock L46. Rotella is available at Wally World and will work just fine. It's is what a very large number of us use.

Read the article starting on page 3 if you want some straight poop on the subject.

http://www.stlouisncrs.org/news_file..._July_2011.pdf

briankeery

Valvoline VR1 conventional.

71454Chevelle

I would refill it with the same Brad Penn 10w30.

http://www.penngrade1.com/

http://theoilwarehouse.com/?mainURL=...acing_Oil.html

MidShark

About the only time I go to Wally World is to buy oil for my old cars. I buy the Delo 400 LE (made by Chevron) which is a CJ-4 oil. And it's $11.97/gal. which is a $1 less than Rotella.

capevettes

Rotella 15W 40 at Wally World. My favorite store

scottw

STOP!!! Read the sticky up top or the 1000 other threads about motor oil.

aaroncorvette

We use VR1 valvoline racing 20w/50 mineral oil in the UK

baxsom

i put a roller engine in my 72 years ago so I dont worry about it anymore but I thought that the new rotella didnt meet standards anymore.

76strokervette

I would also go with the amsoil z-rod.Along with the zinc it has an additive package with extra corrosion inhibitors to protect cars that
go into storage.Every car I have seen switched has gained at least
2 mpg.Their products work!

DUB

My .02 cents worth.

I looked into oil to use for my customers and I use nothing but Amsoil Z-rod oil for flat tappet engines.

On the super bad a$$ engines I use the Amsoil Dominator Racing oil....but it is NOT intended for street use...and needs to be changed after a weekend of very hard driving.

For what it is worth...
DUB

63mako

Read the sticky. I use Diesel oil in my diesel, I use motorcycle oil in my motorcycle and I use auto engine oil in my auto. You run racing oil in race cars that get frequent oil changes and limited miles (low detergent). Modern oils have specific additive packages for a specific use. There is high mileage oil for................ you guessed it high mileage cars!! Why would you use oil formulated for diesels with much higher detergent and dispersant levels and high anti soot additives when your running a gasoline engine that does not need them. These additives compete for space with ZDDP so they reduce the effectiveness of the ZDDP in the oil which is why they have higher levels even though most diesels have roller valvetrains today. Amsoil Z-rod is formulated specifically for classic cars that have flat tappet cams and sit for extended periods of time. More antioxidents, corrosion inhibitors and high ZDDP level. It might cost you an extra $30 a year over diesel oil to run it. Is your 1969 original engine worth an extra $30 a year to provide the best protection? Brad Penn is also on the list.

Mike Ward

False, false, a thousand times false.

kanvasman

JD, Bet you didn't think asking a simple "What oil should I use" could be so complicated now did you? My 2 cents, stick with just about any major brand name 10W30 and the Rotella has never failed me in any vehicle over the years. The important thing is changing the oil. Especially with these cars and letting them sit. If you don't hit the 3k mile marker within a year, change the oil & filter anyway. And crawling under the car will give you a chance to see if everything else is OK. And welcome to the club!

early shark

You already have the best oil for it. Stay with the Brad Penn, personally I use the 10W-40 wt.

20mercury

http://www.stlouisncrs.org/news_file..._July_2011.pdf[/QUOTE]

Now this is a good read! Thanks!