Scottd

Everything went fine. Leaf spring came out, u joints are good, bushing bolts took a bit to break free but came loose. So up next, I hooked up a puller to the crossmember and hit it with the impact gun. Backed it off, hit it again.....repeat...repeat.....repeat.... .repeat....well, you get the picture. Ive got it soaking, under pressure, hoping it pops. Am I missing something? How far am I going to have to tighten this puller? Obviously, the bushings are toast...


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'75

Looks like it had dropped far enough to be free of the mount, is the bolt still threaded in?

Scottd

Bolt is still in, unscrewed about halfway. Im really worried that Im going to have to take more invasive measures.

Korevette

I did the exact same procedure on my '76. It took a bit but it finally 'popped' with a breaker bar. Maybe leave the gear puller on overnight and see if it will release.

63mako

Looks like it came down far enough to hit the bolt. back the puller off and back the bolt off some more. The bushings are likely fine. There is an aluminum disc with replacement longer bolts that go over the bottom of the crossmember they stabilize the crossmember and make the bushings inconsequential.
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...rcing-Kit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-63-79-a.html

Scottd

Left the puller on overnight and this morning, everything looks the same. The magical bushing popping fairy did not visit me in my sleep. Maybe you guys are right and it already dropped, Ill have to go back and take the puller off and see.

itsabigblock

Dont leave us hanging

1974ta

Longer bolts

When I did this I did not use the original bolts, I used longer bolts and it worked like a champ with the puller. It made quite a bang when it finally broke loose too.


Bill

Hitch

Longer bolts and get that puller off that thing. Use a 6 ft pry bar and it will pop right off..

MotorHead

If anyone tells you they did something on C3 in X amount of time I always multiply that by 2-4 x

Good luck on your project

aaroncorvette

My diff crossmember came off in about 2 minutes with a bit of WD40 and a pry bar...
I think i'm in the minority though.

I found a bit of rot in the frame rail which I couldn't see with the crossmember in place so i'd always suggest people pull the crossmember to take a look

Also use lots of heat as a lost resort, preferably a plumbers map gas gun + WD40 and burn the bastard up.

63split63

Bill

Alan 71

Hi,
I too agree that using a long pry bar is the way to go.... it let's you know how much pressure you're putting on the bushings, and also lets you know the instant it releases.
I like Bill's idea of slightly longer bolts to catch the weight once it drops.
Regards,
Alan

7t9l82

i ground down the end of a chrysler torsion bar an it gets anything loose and never bends

edk136

I used the puller method and it took me longer to get the puller on the bolt than it did to remove the x-member, about 10 minutes a side. But with that said, my trailing arm bolts came right out also and I have a midwestern car so I consider myself lucky on those two projects.

my 76 ray

I agree with 63 Mako. It looks like it has already dropped. Iwould go to the other side and try to get it off.

Scottd

What a fuggin mess. I went back and tried to other side....dropped in about 30 seconds. Got back to drivers side....the pully was so tight it started bending the bolt. I had to go after it with a hammer gun and a chisel. I wound up ripping the entire bushing to get it off....The entire bottom of the bushing is still stuck to the frame.


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This is whats left on the crossmember.........


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I beat the old bushing out of the cross member very easily with my air hammer. Now the question is do I replace them both? Im afraid that knocking the old one out and pressing them both back in will be huge problem.

Korevette

I feel for you ScottD, rust and vulcanizing make great friends.

I personally would service the crossmember to add new bushings and prep for final assembly with new bolts and washers.

aaroncorvette

What a bitch! Glad you got it off

Scottd

The inner steel cup of the bushing was frozen to the sombrero. I had to cut it open with a dremel and knock it off with a chisel. It only took a few hits and it came down. What pisses me off is that on top of the money I have to spend to reseal the diff, now Im going to need another 150 bucks in bushings now. I swear I should be a co-owner of Mid America Corvette by now. At least I should get a 'frequently frustrated shopper' discount.